Jens Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 Man..... the long term weather projections are brutal for ice reforming. I've decided to morph into a gym rat. Anyone else? Quote
jstone Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 fuck it, Im gonna pussy out an go to new zealand, sport climb and sell my soul... but the rockies sound sweet. hmmm.... Quote
Dru Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 you might as well quit ice climbing and sell your tools. there will never be another freeze ever. Quote
mattp Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 You can do both. Go to New Zealand AND climb ice. I believe this is a "summer" photo: And this may be a summer climb, too: Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 I plan to keep saving up and taking trips to the rockies. All the while I'm crossing my fingers that we get one more cold snap. Quote
Dru Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 the second one is definitely NOT a summer photo. Quote
robert Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 I bet that it was summer here when it was taken. Quote
mattp Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 This one doesn't look summer to me, either, but the South Face of Mount Cook looked all icy and rimy when I climbed it, so I said hmmm.... "maybe." I don't know where Mt. Brown is, or whether it may be a relatively high mountain. The first is a picture of White Dream, which has approximately ten pitches of WI III or maybe IV on it, followed by about a thousand feet of lower angle alpine ice. (I think is rated AI V or something like that). I'm pretty sure it is customarily done in the summer. Here's another shot: Quote
jstone Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 man those look sweet, but Im not gonna drag all my alpine shit down there, Im goin' with a rack, shoes, ugly ass hawiian shirt and carharts. thats it. mabey someone will lend me some tools though... Quote
mattp Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 Gotta say, this looks like it could be fun: Quote
Dru Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 That's welded tuff though. No rack required. Also the 10a on that buttress is fucking hard! Quote
Blake Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 fuck it, Im gonna pussy out an go to new zealand, sport climb and sell my soul... but the rockies sound sweet. hmmm.... Right there with you. Summertime beach-side craging and swimming in 3 weeks! Quote
kurthicks Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 Jens, I've done like 20 days this season and it's just getting rolling with longer days and more friendly temperatures. Sure, a full half of those were in the Rockies...but who's counting? Ah the joys of being a student and only living 7.5 hours from Banff My may give up before the season ends though. Quote
ckouba Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 Oh studious one, care to grace us with some TR action? CK Quote
kurthicks Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 ah, nothing too exciting thus far...plus the other TRs pretty much sum up how awesome the area is. In my last 2 trips up there, we did: Cascade, Grotto (both trips), Hers, Cobra Verde (disappointing), Finishing Hammer Gully (fun rambling solo), Louise Falls (fun pillar, but easy for the grade), Haffner, Guiness Gully, and some other easy stuff. I'll post some pics or something when I get my homework done. I need a partner who leads WI5 to help me break into that grade. Anyone want to ropegun me up Nemesis, Sea of Vapors, or the Upper Weeping Wall? Quote
Jens Posted January 18, 2006 Author Posted January 18, 2006 Awesome pics of rock and ice matt ____ I'll probably end up going to the rockies again. ___________________ I did manage to get 14 days in before the warm snap though. Quote
mattp Posted January 19, 2006 Posted January 19, 2006 It is not hard to find awesome pictures of New Zealand. Quote
malrock Posted January 21, 2006 Posted January 21, 2006 Hi all, If your coming down to NZ then check out www.verticalresources.org designed as an info and conditions site - still trying to get it more widely used. As for the first set of images - On was taken in early summer / late spring on White Dreams - south face of Mt cook. Access is via a min 1 1/2 day approach. Either bivvy at the base of the route or get up quite early and ascend aprox 1000m from Gardiner Hut (in the hooker valley / hooker glacier). The route tops out near the top of the west ridge which leads onto low peak (cook has 3 summits low - middle and high) The second shot was taken 2 winter seasons ago 0n some of thelower ice routes in Bush Stream. You can download a copy of the guide from the VR website. In general we had a pretty poor winter and with a moderate lack of snow in early spring it's making conditions crevasse and shrund wise quite interesting. The 'standard' route up cook via the linda glacier is still in climbable condition - there was a SAR just below the summit rocks yesterday - a visting climber fell at the top shrund and injured - not many details as yet but will be following up. There are also some interesting articles on equipment etc in the downloads documents section. The VR site is actually open to anybody around the globe to put info on - doesn't need to simply be NZ Feedback gratefully appreciated. Stay safe. Mal Haskins www.verticalresources.org Quote
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