[TR] Mt. Athabasca/ Andromeda- 12/26/2005

[fear_and_greed]

Climb: Mt. Athabasca/ Andromeda-

 

Date of Climb: 12/26/2005

 

Trip Report:

Went up to Mt. Athabasca and Andromeda for 3 days of climbing. Got smacked by extreme winds and make a hasty retreat. See trip report and photos on my blog http://hydrogenplusstupidity.blogspot.com/

[Dru]

Hmm, you went to A+A for mountaineering at a time when avvy hazard was supposed to be skyrocketing?

 

Maybe you should think about getting rid of the "HydrogenPlus" part of your domain name.

[Zoran]

Dru,

you are adventurous guy too. You climbed solo in remote areas without fear.

I know Scott ...

He is very determined person and he knows how to take care of himself. You should see him soloing Arete on Mt. Wedge.

[Dru]

understanding conditions is one of the keys to mountaineering success

 

going out on a trip with guaranteed bad conditions is a good way to die. it isn't a sign of determination as much of ignorance. bailing was the smartest thing but he should have bailed before driving to the icefields.

[DirtyHarry]

Just got back from the icefields myself. Avy conditions were off the hook after funky weather conditions, including RAIN up to 6000 ft. Trying to climb Andromeda then (or now) is FUCKING STUPID.

[Off_White]

You guys are so harsh. He was already in Calgary, so it's not like he drove for a long time to get there, and it seems he had a reasonable adventure.

[jmckay]

 

 

 

Here are a few shots of the area so you can continue to roast this poor bastard. I would jump to his side with the "experience from poor judgement" or some such thing but he is day trader so he's on his own.

 

 

[Zoran]

Scott,

Looks like is harder to climb up trough this verbal avalanches than to climb A+A.

[JoshK]

I'm just curious what in god's name made you take one of the lightweight tents into the cdn rockies in the winter??

 

[counterfeitfake]

This could be one of the most brilliant trolls of our time.

[DirtyHarry]

This picture just says it all:

 

[jmckay]

 

He might have a shred of dignity left guys.

 

CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS TO THE RESCUE

 

[fear_and_greed]

I realize that it is safer to stay in a Chilliwack trailer park, thumbing through the latest issue of Enumclaw Farm Animal Centerfolds. Thumbing because those are the only digits not afflicted with carpal tunnel syndrome after 29,000+ posts.

If you guys look at the photos you will notice that there was NO SNOW. Well actually there was a lofty 2'' covering the unfrozen scree. The route through the icefall had deep snow that we avoided by going up bare rock to the left. The glacier had NO SNOW, only great ice. Up to where we stopped, both Athabasca and Andromeda had virtually NO SNOW. It's quite difficult to have avalance conditions when there is NO SNOW. If when we climbed up to the AA col the following day, discovered sketchy conditions, we would have abandoned the N.face plan and just walked the ridge to the top, then tried the practice gullies and crevasse rescue in the remaining days.

No rain had fallen in that area as evidenced by the loose scree, bare Sno-coach road and complete lack of crust.

If I remember correctly the weather forecast for the 1st day was overcast, hi -5C, lo -8C, POP 60%, 2nd day sunny breaks, hi -12, lo -18 POP 30%, 3rd day similiar to day 1 but slightly colder.

As for the tent, BD claims they have been used in the Himalayas and Alaska ranges. Based on the conditions we saw, I believe these tents can take a lot of abuse.

Now why don't you guys go down to the barn and find your dates for New Years eve.

[canadug]

Enumclaw and Chilliwack are two frigging completely different places! Farmers in the Whack get their calendars from one of the hundreds of churches....not from some friggin' American inbreds.

[Choada_Boy]

...and thanks to the digital camera, you can share every instant of your dumb idea with the whole world.

 

"This is me and my dumb idea."

 

"This is me with all my gear hanging off my pack by carabiners." (What was taking up all the room IN your pack??)

 

"This is me about to be killed by my dumb idea."

 

"This is me lucky to be alive."

 

My only remaining question is this:

 

Did you use the "Pee Bottle"?

[jmckay]

Actually Scott I doubt that anybody can actually judge conditions better then you. A park public safety warden (who worked at Sunwapta for 9 years [in public safety]) and I discussed your adventure. Under the present conditions we figured that it was not that bad of an objective. That windward slope that you camped close to most likely has little or no snow on it. The Avy hazard in the KYLL zone (Kootenay, Yoho, Lake Louise) was higher at the time. Most naturals were associated with wind-loaded gullies and lee slopes. Trying to picture what the upper section might like just before you get to the flats (below the west ridge) but would have to be there to make that call. Those little windward gullies could have some funk as they often hold snow.

I might join in the roast session if you had tried the north glacier ramp route. (It is not a practical way to get to the N face as your retort seems to indicate.) It would be safe to say I have climbed the mountain from that side better the 30 times under all sorts of conditions and don’t think it is as bad as folks are indicating.

I have also used those single wall bivi tents in the CND Rockies quite a bit in winter even camped on a cornice at 11,000’ in Feb. If I had a choice I might not have done that but I didn’t. Not familiar with BD version (used Bibler and Integral) but weight is such a big factor.

The way that people are talking you would think that you were in the middle of nowhere. Retreat is pretty straightforward from that basin.

I heard that there was a party in trying to climb Forbes right now. Now there is Darwinism at it’s finest. Hopefully they are from your neck of the woods 9 and post a trip report) and I can join in on the roast.

 

[JoshK]

I have also used those single wall bivi tents in the CND Rockies quite a bit in winter even camped on a cornice at 11,000’ in Feb. If I had a choice I might not have done that but I didn’t. Not familiar with BD version (used Bibler and Integral) but weight is such a big factor.

 

Totally different beast. The tents you are talking about are made from the integral-tex fabric which is quite a bit thicker. I have one and it is certainly a bomber winter tent. The one he used is BD's thinner superlight version which is made from a non-waterproof fabric. Then again, it might make a perfectly reasonable choice given the appropriate conditions due to the super dry snow you guys get. I just find them a bit wimpy in high wind.

 

I realize that it is safer to stay in a Chilliwack trailer park, thumbing through the latest issue of Enumclaw Farm Animal Centerfolds. Thumbing because those are the only digits not afflicted with carpal tunnel syndrome after 29,000+ posts.

 

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!! Classic!

[scottgg]

good on ya for getting out there and giving it a shot