Condorphamine Addiction - details

[Alex]

For nierman and others interested in this route in Leavenworth's Icicle Canyon, here are the details on the recent addition to Condor Buttress.

The HYPE: this route was hyped as a "7 pitch 10b route", which makes it sound quite serious. It's not. I have not seen the original topo, so this route description is purely my own.

Approach: park in a pullout just past Bridge Creek CG and find the trail to Bathtub Dome, a steep affair that gains over 1000 feet straight up the hill to Bathtub Dome. Proceed past Bathtub another 15 minutes to Condor Buttress.

Route: The route is on the right hand side of Condor Buttress, where 3 closely spaced bolt lines climb up an initial slab. Only one goes further than 80 feet.

p1. climb an unremarkable slab to chains. 80' 5.7

p2. climb rightward for a few bolts and then into an awkward corner (a few 5.8 moves) to chains. 80'

p3. climb 4th class to chains. 80'

p4. climb up another slabby section to trui-bolt anchor and chains, 5.6 80'

p5. climb up and through an interesting 5.9 friction/opposition pitch to jugs and chains. 80'

p6. tough moves off the belay lead to brief rest and then one-move wonder 10a move.

p7. 5.4 to top.

Descent: rap route

Worth it? Go judge for yourself.

Alex

 

[goatboy]

Curious: Where is the original topo to which you refer?

Sounds like you can do the whole route with just draws? Weird.

Steve

[Cpt.Caveman]

Hey Goatboy it's 7 pitches hyped into what really ends up as 3.

[Jens]

I haven't climbed the route...... but why so many chains!!#@!!?????

[CascadeClimber]

Without endorsing or condemning the route or people involved, here is a link to the topo:

Condorphamine topo

-CC

[This message has been edited by CascadeClimber (edited 04-21-2001).]

[Drangsholt]

There were 6 parties trying to do Condorphamine Addiction yesterday. The word is getting out that this is a good sport climb.

[joe_catellani]

I was there (in first of 5 parties) that was on the route on saturday. seemed like each party was doing it in 2 to 2 1/2 hrs. you can walk off the backside after doing one 50' rap off a tree, this makes a lot more sense than rapping down while other parties are coming up.

its a good fun route.

[Lambone]

Sounds fun, like a good girlfriend route.

7 pitches that really add up to 3?

No disrespect, but why is this always the case in Washington? It's like everyone here uses one 30 meter rope, only has twelve draws, and has never heard of long runers.

Or mabye Washington climbers just lack endurance? Mabye they just want their routes to sound bad ass?

Just kidding! Put your bolt guns away!

[This message has been edited by lambone (edited 04-22-2001).]