Tyrone_Shoes Posted October 1, 2002 Share Posted October 1, 2002 Spent some time up there this summer, the place is getting more active every year. Anyone know of any new route descriptions, Ive got a few lines that are gonna take bolts and I don't want to cross over anyones new routes. Just want to get my facts straight before I hump that heavy HILTI up that godforsaken approach. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 1, 2002 Share Posted October 1, 2002 bolt the hell out of it dude... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 1, 2002 Share Posted October 1, 2002 Bolt on the Chinese Puzzle wall if anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted October 1, 2002 Share Posted October 1, 2002 http://www.bivouac.com/RtePg.asp?RteId=1005 Â There is tonnes of new routes up here, all the result of Shaun Neufeld and friends. As Dru has warned here, Shaun is very protective of the area and you should do your best to get in touch with him. Â But BOLTS ????? What the fuck you talkin bout? Man, the cracks are everywhere, what the fuck you need bolts for. I'll kick your ass if you place a bolt up there, seriously. Man, it's alpine granite, not some roadside chossheap. There isn't a slab or unprotectable move on either of the spires. Â And if you think that any of the routes are gonna go 5.10 and under, you're wrong. Make sure you can crank 5.11 cracks solid or you're gonna butcher a good line in attempting it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 1, 2002 Share Posted October 1, 2002 It's splitter granite in most places- Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted October 1, 2002 Share Posted October 1, 2002 I wouldn't be surprised if Shaun has done some more since Dru's latest update in the Coop log book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhamaker Posted October 1, 2002 Share Posted October 1, 2002 The area looks too pretty to bolt. Beware the dark side Luke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 1, 2002 Share Posted October 1, 2002 Chinese Puzzle is the white wall in lower left. Known for blank corners etc. Go aid climb that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted October 1, 2002 Share Posted October 1, 2002 Tyrone, you may be new, but you seem to know the game... Â Â [ 10-01-2002, 04:50 PM: Message edited by: Off White ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Chips Posted October 2, 2002 Share Posted October 2, 2002 Would one find razor-wire at the base of the said 'protected' spires? Crown land means access for everyone. No matter what happens up there, bolts or no bolts, we are all impacting the environment to some degree when we put up new routes. ethics is only part of the story here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted October 2, 2002 Share Posted October 2, 2002 Dammit! We don't need bolts!Chains! That's the future! Drape em' all over the place. Plenty O' links to clip into. They are heafty, so bring a choper or better yet a snomo mofo!Myballsack spire be damned! Chain it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyrone_Shoes Posted October 2, 2002 Author Share Posted October 2, 2002 I'm sorry, I can't please everyone. I'm from Italy, and the people appretiate when a citizen puts the time and money into the local mountains. Believe me, I have seen it before, I drill the holes and bolt the routes and the very next day there is a line up for the route. That makes me happy, that I can contribute. I want nothing in return. Me and my crew are working here for only onther 16 months before we go back over seas, in that time I plan to make your moutains a better place. Aid Climbers and interested parties, I hope to see you out there. Climb safe. Â --------------------------------------------------"Build it and they will come" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted October 2, 2002 Share Posted October 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Tyrone Shoes: I'm from Italy, and the people appretiate when a citizen puts the time and money into the local mountains... You already wasted your money on a plane ticket. Don't waste it on bolts on alpine granite (on this continent). You need another plane ticket. The sooner the better. Take The Bone with you. Â [ 10-02-2002, 12:32 AM: Message edited by: Retrosaurus ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 2, 2002 Share Posted October 2, 2002 Alpine sport routes! Body-length bolt spacing with 1/2" stainless steel glue-ins and four-bolt belays for convenience! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 2, 2002 Share Posted October 2, 2002 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 2, 2002 Share Posted October 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: quote:Originally posted by Tyrone Shoes: I'm from Italy, and the people appretiate when a citizen puts the time and money into the local mountains... You already wasted your money on a plane ticket. Don't waste it on bolts on alpine granite (on this continent). You need another plane ticket. The sooner the better. Take The Bone with you. Seems like maybe you should go with him, considering that you were hooked by his troll. I call BS on this Tyrone fella Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Chips Posted October 2, 2002 Share Posted October 2, 2002 does nobody care about the other issues and implications involved in this topic?! jordop got pretty aroused at the whole thing. it got under my collar a bit too, but hey, back to the question of who thinks they own the area and the impact and damage they are creating. it's the classic pot/kettle showdown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted October 2, 2002 Share Posted October 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Mr. Chips: does nobody care about the other issues and implications involved in this topic?! jordop got pretty aroused at the whole thing. it got under my collar a bit too, but hey, back to the question of who thinks they own the area and the impact and damage they are creating. it's the classic pot/kettle showdown. Yes, Chimpy, I did get a bit ired and if this guy actually exists or is just Dru playing a really fuckin funny joke (notcie he aint here!), I fell for one of the oldest threads on record. Maybe it's becuase I've had my eye one those spires for a while and when Shaun started putting up clean and free routes there at way harder grades that I could, it felt right damnit! Â No one owns the area obviously, it's just polite to talk to people who are currently working on routes there to avoid nastyshowdowns and misinterpretations of intent, i.e. scooping. Â Tyrone, if you are a real person, I appologize for jumpin on you, yes, I know bolting ethics here are way different from those in Italy. Best place for maps is Downtown Vancouver, the Canadian geological Survey Office on Robson street, just east of Granville. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 2, 2002 Share Posted October 2, 2002 maps downtown vancouver is  ITMB  http://www.itmb.com  530 West Broadway Vancouver, B.C. Canada V5Z IE9  604 879 3621  Its 4 blocks from MEC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyrone_Shoes Posted October 2, 2002 Author Share Posted October 2, 2002 CAVEMAN Â Thank you for the information Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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