Deep Water Crack Soloing

[MCash]

Anyone ever tried it? The biggest adrenaline rush I've ever had climbing. Just got back from my honeymoon to Mexico and discovered this on the golden granite cliffs off Huatulco, due south of Oaxaca. The granite was cource textured and varied from slightly slabby to slightly overhanging. A large amount of the cracks are flaring but some were excellent climbing. Most of the routes are shorter, but some were about 100 foot high. I didn't try any really tall ones. One thing to note to note is you need to get on it early in the day before the surf builds and pounds you back into the cliff. The surfing hot spot Puerto Escondido is nearby and the waves can be big here.

 

Another fun pursuit was beach bouldering. The granite tends to have few features so you have to stick to cracks and flakes. I would not recommend getting too high above the sand on the flakes as the granite here tends to exfoliate. (I ripped off a couple flakes). Fun stuff with nice soft sand for a great landing every time. Are there any local Washington areas that have beach bouldering?

 

Also add the big limestone cliffs above the beautiful colonial town of San Cristobal de las Casas to the list of undeveloped areas. I didn't go up there but other smaller limestone walls were good quality. I got some interesting looks from the locals when asking about climbing them. From what I've gathered there has been no development.

[DirtyHarry]

Next time I'm in San Cristobal de las Casas I'll give it a try.

[MCash]

Yeah, it's pretty remote. Point taken. The beach stuff is easily accessible though with lots of fun stuff in the area to do like snorkeling, scuba diving, sailing, beach bumming, etc.

[Dru]

Don't bolt the coral.

[Blake]

Are there any local Washington areas that have beach bouldering?

 

 

Clayton Beach, Larabee State Park near Bellingham.

[layton]

Here's a poorly scanned photo of Necronomicon at Clayton Beach in the 'Ham sending the burl sav brah.

[lancegranite]

Me and Mrs G fell in love on a Third beach bouldering trip... good place to climb too.

 

[Ireneo_Funes]

mazel tov!

[chris]

Also add the big limestone cliffs above the beautiful colonial town of San Cristobal de las Casas to the list of undeveloped areas. I didn't go up there but other smaller limestone walls were good quality. I got some interesting looks from the locals when asking about climbing them. From what I've gathered there has been no development.

What state is that in? I picked up a postcard during my last trip in Mexico. Its a watercolor of a colonial town with these red cliffs climbing up behind it. The caption says Tepoztlan, Morelos. Problem is, I haven't found any other mention of it anywhere in any travel books...

[jlag]

Nice work Martin, just got back from Mexico myself. I couldn't agree more with the beach bouldering. I was in Sayulita(just north of PV)ended up blowing off surfing to boulder the killer granite on the beach. Everyone was crashing into each other on the surf and I was climbing super clean boulders with sand landings. So much potential around that area, only on low tide though.

[MCash]

Also add the big limestone cliffs above the beautiful colonial town of San Cristobal de las Casas to the list of undeveloped areas. I didn't go up there but other smaller limestone walls were good quality. I got some interesting looks from the locals when asking about climbing them. From what I've gathered there has been no development.

What state is that in? I picked up a postcard during my last trip in Mexico. Its a watercolor of a colonial town with these red cliffs climbing up behind it. The caption says Tepoztlan, Morelos. Problem is, I haven't found any other mention of it anywhere in any travel books...

 

It is in the Chiapas state, in the southern part of Mexico, maybe 150 kilometers west of Palenque. The limestone here is white. I'm sure there are countless areas throughout Mexico that could be developed if climbing ever caught on down there.

[MCash]

Nice work Martin, just got back from Mexico myself. I couldn't agree more with the beach bouldering. I was in Sayulita(just north of PV)ended up blowing off surfing to boulder the killer granite on the beach. Everyone was crashing into each other on the surf and I was climbing super clean boulders with sand landings. So much potential around that area, only on low tide though.

 

Thanks Josh. It sounds like you had a great time as well. Man it sucks coming back to the cold. It's hard to go from 80 degree beaches to thinking about iceclimbing.

[specialed]

I've heard incredible stories of vast undeveloped climbing south of the border. Down there I think its a sport only for the borgeoise or visiting / expatriot gringos.

 

Sounds like your trip was awesome!! BTW