Mt Triumph ???s

[Big_Wave_Dave]

If you're talking about the E Ridge --

 

We got down with one 60M, it may have even been a 50 (several years ago when I was strong enough to not notice the weight in my pack). I believe we did some easy downclimbing but there was never a "Uh, oh, we should have brought two ropes" moment.

[Big_Wave_Dave]

Sorry, NE Ridge.

[Stefan]

Coming down the standard route you only need a 50 meter rope at only one place.

[bcraig]

It's two 50M double rope raps and some quick down climbing if you descend the SE shoulder per Beckey. This descent is approximately 4x faster than going back down the NERidge. 2.5 hrs from summit to bivy notch south of the glacier.

[fleblebleb]

What are the rap anchors like on the SE shoulder? How hard is it to find them and how good are they? Is 2x50 plenty or borderline? Sounds like a better option than descending the route.

[Smoker]

When I did it a few yrs back, the NE ridge was loaded with rap anchors. We had no problems with a 50m rope except the one snag and I recall being hypothermic as I climbed back up to free it.

 

Took us 3 hrs to climb the ridge in 50ft of visibilty, 4.5hrs to descend in the rain.

 

It was tough for us to bag in 2 days but we did.

 

Have fun hope you get better views than I had

 

S

[slothrop]

I was on the NE ridge last week and we used two ropes, 30m and almost-30m, for raps down the route. It was a slow descent, but rap anchors are plentiful and easy to find. We didn't have any problems pulling rope, but it took our slow asses nearly 6 hours to descend.

 

Going down to the SE shoulder sounds like a better way out. Have fun, Stebbi

 

TR w/photos available here.

 

[ 08-22-2002, 11:52 PM: Message edited by: slothrop ]

[Charlie]

Can you get down with one 60 meter rope? I've heard that you need two but the Nelson guide says you can do it with one. Any other helpful bits of beta? Thanks

[bcraig]

Anchors on SE shoulder are quite good. Scramble SW just below summit to first double rope rap. Scramble easy terrain 200' down and look around knobs on the left (EAST) for second set of bomber anchors. Double rope rap. Down climb easy terrain to short rap (15'). Walk down heather and rock shoulder above polished slabs. Walk down slabs under the "big wall" comprising the NE Face of Thorton Peak and find ramp to get on the glacier. 50m ropes will work just fine.

[thelawgoddess]

off topic, but i can't help myself. (it's the first thing i thought of when i saw this thread title ...

 

triumph ... the insult comic dog

[Charlie]

Thanks! Yeah, we're going up the ne ridge.

[Lambone]

I talked to Colin today (nice guy), he just did it last weekend, said it was easy to descend with one rope with some roped downclimbing.

[erik]

 

[ 08-23-2002, 04:38 PM: Message edited by: erik ]

[erik]

shit bone you his agent or something.....

 

and where the hell is my haul bag?

 

your pitons are on some cliffs up north....i will give you a topo if ya want!

[fleblebleb]

Hey, that was a really cool coincidence to run into you at Triumph last Saturday bcraig. How did your trip go? Did the weather stay decent Sunday?

[klar404]

Thelawgoddess, tanks for de link to more Triumph sheite! I almost peed me little shorts the first time I saw the "Star Wars" clip. The only thing I offer in reimbursment is this http://www.punchbaby.com/ or this http://www.milkandcookies.com/

enojy and thank you!

[Gary_Yngve]

quote:

---

Originally posted by fleblebleb:

Hey, that was a really cool coincidence to run into you at Triumph last Saturday bcraig. How did your trip go? Did the weather stay decent Sunday?

---

Here's a pic of the four of you crossing the glacier:

 

pic