Big_Wave_Dave Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 If you're talking about the E Ridge -- We got down with one 60M, it may have even been a 50 (several years ago when I was strong enough to not notice the weight in my pack). I believe we did some easy downclimbing but there was never a "Uh, oh, we should have brought two ropes" moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Wave_Dave Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 Sorry, NE Ridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 Coming down the standard route you only need a 50 meter rope at only one place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcraig Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 It's two 50M double rope raps and some quick down climbing if you descend the SE shoulder per Beckey. This descent is approximately 4x faster than going back down the NERidge. 2.5 hrs from summit to bivy notch south of the glacier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 What are the rap anchors like on the SE shoulder? How hard is it to find them and how good are they? Is 2x50 plenty or borderline? Sounds like a better option than descending the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoker Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 When I did it a few yrs back, the NE ridge was loaded with rap anchors. We had no problems with a 50m rope except the one snag and I recall being hypothermic as I climbed back up to free it. Took us 3 hrs to climb the ridge in 50ft of visibilty, 4.5hrs to descend in the rain. It was tough for us to bag in 2 days but we did. Have fun hope you get better views than I had S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 I was on the NE ridge last week and we used two ropes, 30m and almost-30m, for raps down the route. It was a slow descent, but rap anchors are plentiful and easy to find. We didn't have any problems pulling rope, but it took our slow asses nearly 6 hours to descend. Going down to the SE shoulder sounds like a better way out. Have fun, Stebbi TR w/photos available here. [ 08-22-2002, 11:52 PM: Message edited by: slothrop ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted August 23, 2002 Author Share Posted August 23, 2002 Can you get down with one 60 meter rope? I've heard that you need two but the Nelson guide says you can do it with one. Any other helpful bits of beta? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcraig Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 Anchors on SE shoulder are quite good. Scramble SW just below summit to first double rope rap. Scramble easy terrain 200' down and look around knobs on the left (EAST) for second set of bomber anchors. Double rope rap. Down climb easy terrain to short rap (15'). Walk down heather and rock shoulder above polished slabs. Walk down slabs under the "big wall" comprising the NE Face of Thorton Peak and find ramp to get on the glacier. 50m ropes will work just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 off topic, but i can't help myself. (it's the first thing i thought of when i saw this thread title ... triumph ... the insult comic dog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted August 23, 2002 Author Share Posted August 23, 2002 Thanks! Yeah, we're going up the ne ridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 I talked to Colin today (nice guy), he just did it last weekend, said it was easy to descend with one rope with some roped downclimbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 [ 08-23-2002, 04:38 PM: Message edited by: erik ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 shit bone you his agent or something..... and where the hell is my haul bag? your pitons are on some cliffs up north....i will give you a topo if ya want! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted August 26, 2002 Share Posted August 26, 2002 Hey, that was a really cool coincidence to run into you at Triumph last Saturday bcraig. How did your trip go? Did the weather stay decent Sunday? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Thelawgoddess, tanks for de link to more Triumph sheite! I almost peed me little shorts the first time I saw the "Star Wars" clip. The only thing I offer in reimbursment is this http://www.punchbaby.com/ or this http://www.milkandcookies.com/ enojy and thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by fleblebleb: Hey, that was a really cool coincidence to run into you at Triumph last Saturday bcraig. How did your trip go? Did the weather stay decent Sunday? Here's a pic of the four of you crossing the glacier: pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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