need help looking for appropriate climbs...

[worldonastrng]

My more experienced climbing partner and I are hoping to set out for a Thanksgiving weekend climb to (possibly) Smith Rock. We are working on multi-pitching now. We are aspiring to find a grade III or IV with routes hopefully not exceeding 5.10's. Can anyone offer some reasonable direction here?

edit- we sport climb

Edited November 2, 2005 by worldonastrng

[Squid]

Spiderman 2p 5.7

Monkeyface Pioneer Route 4p 5.8 A0

Superslab 5.6 3p?

 

 

I know there's a bunch more, but those are some classics.

[selkirk]

Zebra-Zion linkup, 5.10 (for 1 move), 4 p. (but 2 pitches with sustained 5.8/5.9)

[Cobra_Commander]

looks like you are looking for bolted multipitch climbs?

 

Wherever I May Roam (5.9) - a relatively new climb on the backside of the Smith Rock group that is wildly popular due to it's closely-spaced bolts and easy climbing. Prepare to stand in line on the weekends and arrive at belays where a clusterf*ck is commencing. If uncrowded, it is a fun trip. It has changed considerably over the past few years as the constant traffic wears down the nubbins.

 

First Kiss - (5.8, but I've heard even that is a soft rating) another multi-pitch bolted extravaganza over in the Kiss of the Lepers area. There is some beta on this site if you do a search for it.

 

Cave Route (5.6) - retrobolted solo climb over in the Marsupials. A lot of fun with a cool summit.

 

Round River Direct (5.8 for one move, the rest, low 5th) - retrobolted staircase on Koala Rock.

 

There is a new multipitch bolted route going up to the right of White Satin/Sky Chimney but it is not finished at this point (and might require some traffic to clean it up a bit).

 

Other than that, there's not much in the way of multipitch bolts, unless you consider link-ups like Ancylostoma (5.9) and the bolted stuff above (5.7ish?) or Ginger Snap (5.8ish?) to Cinnamon Toast (5.9 along the arete). There are a number of options.

 

Now that I think of it you could do the first pitch of White Satin (over-bolted chimney) and link up some of the sport faces to the left of that route. This might be pushing the 5.10 limit though.

[Dru]

You aren't going to find any Grade III or Grade IV routes at Smith.

[Alex]

Agree with Dru, which got me thinking where you *would* find III or IV sporto routes in the PNW?

 

The only place stateside I can think of are a few Darrington IIIs and Infinite Bliss on Garfield. In Canada, probably Yak peak, Dru might have other Canada suggestions. There are not very many clipups of any real length or committment around here.

[shapp]

I have done first kiss, lots of bolts, about 5.8 pretty fun. For multipitch sport at smith in November I would do teddy bears picknick (5.10b) in the morning cause it is in the sun, or stroll over and do round river with the 5.8 finish, then hike over and climb First Kiss in the Afternoon. That would give you about 8 pitches, which would approximate a contrived grade III. Have fun.

[chucK]

What about that route on Baring?

 

What about Condomorphine? That's 7 pitches, right?

[Dru]

there are no fully bolted crag routes in the alpine in bc.... even yak is a gear route except for the crux pitch of reality check.

 

however stairway to heaven on the chief is a 16 pitch 10b sport rig, albeit with ledge walks between some of the pitches.

[Dru]

what about these goat wall routes in mazama? they are all bolts?

[Alex]

I am not sure what the status of the Baring routes are. Their info is not widely published, and at one time I heard a rumor that rockfall had obliterated part of one route on Dolomite tower.

 

Right, Goat Wall in Mazama has some routes, though the one I've done ("Methow Inspiration Route") is only about 5 pitches or so with short approach so hardly falls into the "grade III" category. Some of the other routes are longer though. Scott posted a Gato Negro on Silverstar topo here once which might be worth a look at.

 

I guess some of the routes at Static might qualify, if not for length then at least for committment!!

[Alex]

there are no fully bolted crag routes in the alpine in bc

 

Someone needs to go bolt the Edwards Spagnut into submission!!

[Alpinfox]

Scott posted a Gato Negro on Silverstar topo here once which might be worth a look at.

 

Gato Negro ain't a sport route!

 

[John Frieh]

If you can't go till Turkey day I would say go to smith and link as many routes as you can in a day. This will help you get ready for a grade III or IV and you will have better luck with the weather.

 

Try:

 

Moscow or Peking to top of Misery Ridge.

Hike over ridge climb either 13a (variation to original on monkey) or first kiss first and then do the other.

 

Hike along backside climb spiderman, climb sky ridge, drop over * pass climb as many routes as possible on the front side.

 

Aim for 15-20 routes that day. Repeat the next day.

[shapp]

Dude they are like sport climbers only dude

[John Frieh]

Shit my bad!

[Dru]

Run around and link up First Kiss, Marsupial Traverse and Wherever I May Roam in a day.

[shapp]

After reading the other post this dude had about quick draws I have some serious quetions as to weather this person is ready for multipitch routes. If you don't know the difference between draws/slings and how many to take, can you be expected to set belays and handle rope management/rappels on multipitch routes?

[ClimbingCowboy]

A day hiking over to Koala rock and doing Round River and then doing the Cave Route or South Buttress Rte (depending on collective skill levels and experience) makes for an enjoyable day with great views.

[fgw]

Koala Rock --> Thin Air but you can replace the first trad (5.8) pitch with a bolted 5.9 to the right (Suck My Kiss??). Upper 2 pitches are all well bolted. Red book says 10a but they felt easier.