Peter_Puget Posted November 1, 2005 Posted November 1, 2005 So you think that advice isn't good? Quote
RuMR Posted November 1, 2005 Author Posted November 1, 2005 Its fine, but not what i'm looking for...kinda what i was explaining to tim...that deals with the tools you already have, not getting another tool... Quote
Peter_Puget Posted November 1, 2005 Posted November 1, 2005 Its fine, but not what i'm looking for...kinda what i was explaining to tim...that deals with the tools you already have, not getting another tool... Â Not sure I fully get what you're saying. For me learning to relax a bit more than I was enabled me to use my existing tool box more effectively. Quote
olyclimber Posted November 1, 2005 Posted November 1, 2005 Let me get this straight....you have a tool box, not a tool? Quote
Peter_Puget Posted November 1, 2005 Posted November 1, 2005 a box filled with a variety of tools... Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted November 1, 2005 Posted November 1, 2005 Actually it was the advice "Don't fall because you're scared of falling" Â This is so true! You can hang on way after you think you are going to peel. I find gym climbing helps me here, as I learn precisely how long i can hold onto a certain hold. Â Also, being able to find a centering routine, where when I feel pumped out, or I'm in over my head, to smile, relax, and say hello to fear and accept it, get some gear in, and continue! Calling "take" can be so tempting once you get that gear in but you know you can keep going! Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted November 1, 2005 Posted November 1, 2005 Another piece of advice I got from a good climber was while climbing Blackened at Smith. I thought I was going to whip off of it on some small (for me) holds, and he shouts up "those holds feel just as crappy for 5.12 climbers, so you might as well stop screwing around on them trying to make them something they are not, and keep climbing!" Quote
sweatinoutliquor Posted November 1, 2005 Posted November 1, 2005 I tried yoga, and magically, not only did it not help my climbing, but rendered me incapeable of walking cause it screwed up my back so much. Â I suck at climbing anyway, but the best thing for me has been getting out on the "real" rock more, and away from plastic taped holds. Pulling plastic helps to a certian degree (especially learning to center as cc says above), but I think it unteaches you how to read the rock. Wish I lived closer to a crag though... Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted November 1, 2005 Posted November 1, 2005 Another thing that helped me in the past (and this years) is to lead at every opportunity. Lead easier routes instead of TR'ing harder ones. Hell, lead harder ones that protect well or are bolted well. TR'ing routes does some good for technique but nothing gets your head where it's supposed to be for climbing better than leading, and it's all about the head games up to a certain grade. Â Wow, guess I had a lot to say here huh? Quote
kix Posted November 1, 2005 Posted November 1, 2005 I sometimes link all the v2's together regardless of the tape color. that way whenever I come across a harder brown taped problem I don't freeze up and start to hyperventilate. Â as for real rock, I discovered that supersized tick marks vs. the normal size tick marks improved my climbing significantly. Quote
northwest_dad Posted November 2, 2005 Posted November 2, 2005 it's all about the head games up to a certain grade. Quote
northwest_dad Posted November 2, 2005 Posted November 2, 2005 it's all about the head games up to a certain grade. Oops... Anyway, I think it's still a mental game no matter how hard the route is. True that difficulty can seem to take over more at higher grades but it's even more mentally challenging to make your body go for worse moves on smaller/harder holds. For me what made a difference was climbing with people who would push me harder in a good way. Exapmle "Let's see who can redpoint 10 new 5.12s (or whatever) this season." To me it's more fun to try harder if you have a motivated partner. Oh yeah, real rock makes you climb harder. Gym 5.12 is way easier than rock 5.12, go outside more! Quote
RuMR Posted November 2, 2005 Author Posted November 2, 2005 (edited) true dat...i climb much better outside than in... Â also, 5.12 climbing does not have "limit" type holds...I wanna know how to clamp down on small shit... Â Edited November 2, 2005 by RuMR Quote
selkirk Posted November 2, 2005 Posted November 2, 2005 For me it's all been mental, and getting comfortable with committing moves. Of course I also suck so that's probably not that useful to you! Well and of course mileage on lead. From what i've seen climbing up to 10a or so is all about headspace and footwork. Quote
goatboy Posted November 2, 2005 Posted November 2, 2005 Here's a different answer: Â Overtraiing in the gym, and generally over-climbing without rest days for a few years, essentially developing chronic tendinitis in the elbows which plagues me to this day . . . . don't be dumb like me. Quote
archenemy Posted November 2, 2005 Posted November 2, 2005 Here's a different answer: Â Overtraiing in the gym, and generally over-climbing without rest days for a few years, essentially developing chronic tendinitis in the elbows which plagues me to this day . . . . don't be dumb like me. 200mg of ibuprophen 3x day; ice; rest. Given enough time, the tendons's swelling will recede enough that you will only be bothered occasionally (usually when you trigger it by repetative movement, no warm-up, etc--you already know all that stuff). I used to have tendonitis so bad I could hardly brush my teeth. I winced any time I had to move my arms. It took two years of very careful treatment, but I am hardly ever bothered now. You've probably heard about diet-influenced inflamation as well--it may be worth your while to explore this if you have not already done so. Tendonitis sucks, my heart goes out to you!!! Quote
selkirk Posted November 2, 2005 Posted November 2, 2005 Here's a different answer: Â Overtraiing in the gym, and generally over-climbing without rest days for a few years, essentially developing chronic tendinitis in the elbows which plagues me to this day . . . . don't be dumb like me. Â a few years ago I tweaked a rotator cuff playing volleyball and they put me on 600mg naproxen (stuff that's in Aleve) twice a day for 3 weeks, and of course complete rest. Did wonders and felt fine when I was done. Use the same technique for tendinitis in my left wrist every now and again. THat shit truly sucks though! For those of you with creaky fingers, be nice now or pay triple for it later. Quote
kix Posted November 2, 2005 Posted November 2, 2005 diet-influenced inflamation   link?   or are we just talking fat overeaters who try to climb and trash their tendons? Quote
archenemy Posted November 2, 2005 Posted November 2, 2005 diet-influenced inflamation   link?   or are we just talking fat overeaters who try to climb and trash their tendons?  There is a lot of talk about inflamatory reactions and autoimmune-related issues being related to possible food reactions. Usually, soy and gluten are pointed out as big factors; but fortunately, there are many foods mentioned that do the opposite and are suggested to be included in your diet.  Google will provide lots of links for you; do a search and you will find many interesting hypothoses about diet's impact on your tendons and joints. I have tried following a couple of different regimens to alleviate discomfort from tendonitis and arthritis. I don't know if I believe the stuff 100%; but it doesn't do me any harm to experiment with some folks' recommondations (i.e. by removing soy from my diet for 6 months, eating more cayanne pepper to reduce inflamation, or something equally simple and straightforward) to see if there is a difference. Quote
kix Posted November 2, 2005 Posted November 2, 2005 I'm really only interested in cures and remedies with promises of results in 5 minutes. Quote
archenemy Posted November 2, 2005 Posted November 2, 2005 then jerk off and save yourself the extra three minutes. Quote
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