archenemy Posted October 27, 2005 Posted October 27, 2005 A full tape job is indicated for certain routes (e.g. Royal Flush) route? um. Royal Flush? Quote
RuMR Posted October 27, 2005 Posted October 27, 2005 its two words...he's still stuck on one word only...plus, i don't think he knows what the word "route" means anyway... Quote
kix Posted October 27, 2005 Posted October 27, 2005 he's still stuck on one word only...plus, i don't think he knows what the word "route" means anyway... riiiight. one word: PROBLEM Quote
RuMR Posted October 27, 2005 Posted October 27, 2005 hmmm...don't you like "linkups"? Just imagine the possibilities...you could "linkup" many "problems" vertically, and then presto, you would have a "route"...Word games are such fun... Quote
Alpinfox Posted October 27, 2005 Posted October 27, 2005 he's still stuck on one word only...plus, i don't think he knows what the word "route" means anyway... riiiight. one word: PROBLEM Thank you for highlighting this very important "problem" with my post. Quote
EWolfe Posted October 27, 2005 Author Posted October 27, 2005 I climbed Royal Flush without tape, in other words, I DIDN'T aid it. Quote
cman Posted October 28, 2005 Posted October 28, 2005 i use tape most of the time, my hands are pretty boney and it is pretty painful without. aid is fun Quote
billcoe Posted October 28, 2005 Posted October 28, 2005 As a young man, throwing myself over and over again at Coach's crack, poor as all getup, and dumb as hell, I never used tape. Now, as an old man, after having been accused of stigmata (good god, you're hands are always bleeding, man), and having seen the light, I now actually occasionally use tape, sometimes, almost always at the UW wall. Any tips to help build up leathery hands? I think climbing a lot and not carrying a lot of weight helps. When I was Mike Laytons weight, I easily pulled Dr Feelgood in Yos and Monkee Farce at Smith. Now both of those routes cause me to bleed because of sharp crystals. Course you can do a 3rd class bit to avoid the 5.11 Dr. Feelgood start which we phat peoples need to do nowadays! It beats chalking to soak up the blood after the fact! Quote
eric8 Posted October 28, 2005 Posted October 28, 2005 The tape really speeded up the 3 of us outrunning the party of 2 below us. They started right on our 3rd persons ass and were on like P2 or so as we hit P7 or P8 something dramatic like that. I'd always used it to help minimise ripping the crap out of my little thin-skinned delicate pussy no-callosed hands. I never thought of taping to really increase your speed, but it helps a lot. i have a hard time believing that tape was the reason why that party couldn't keep up with you. But maybe if you tell the same story in a couple more threads I'll believe you. And who tapes for royal flush, its a boulder probelm whats next taping for psycowussy because you can get a fist jam on it Quote
kix Posted October 28, 2005 Posted October 28, 2005 And who tapes for royal flush, its a boulder problem that is not even pure jamming, there are holds inside the crack. Quote
billcoe Posted October 28, 2005 Posted October 28, 2005 i have a hard time believing that tape was the reason why that party couldn't keep up with you. But maybe if you tell the same story in a couple more threads I'll believe you. Ok, I'm up for that. _______________________________________________ They may have just been slow, but I feel positive it really speeded us up. I'd not seen or really thought about it before, but the effect was noticible to me, and Andrew mentioned it later, so it wasn't just me dreaming it. He's been climbing @ 30 years too, so it's not like we're ignorant ..... well....... too much beyond normal is what I mean. Or ask Gent, he was the 3rd (or 1st or 2nd depending on how you look at it), he's a very honorable and honest guy as anyone who knows him is aware. See what he thinks. Quote
lancegranite Posted October 28, 2005 Posted October 28, 2005 The only time the gloves come out is long routes in cold or windy weather. They keep my hands warm! Quote
sk Posted November 6, 2005 Posted November 6, 2005 i suck. i tape up for anything i know i am going to fall on. actualy i have been struggeling with .10's for a long time. and someone finaly convinced me to tape up this summer and it made a world of difference. i still suck. and i suck at taping up my hands too. but i bleed less. i have small hands the tape adds volume. it seems to help. Quote
goatboy Posted November 11, 2005 Posted November 11, 2005 My wife, who is a doctor, informed me that the scar tissue one develops on the hands (due to repeated gobis) is actually weaker and more likely to re-open than the original skin -- so this bodes ill for the "leathery hands" theory, doesn't it? I didn't tape for YEARS that I inhabited the J Tree area, and I'm pretty sure I never developed the leathery hands and resistance to gobis that others have mentioned . . .. Quote
catbirdseat Posted November 11, 2005 Posted November 11, 2005 He's right about that. You only develop calluses on the palms. The backs of your hands don't harden at all. Scar tissue weakens the skin over time. Quote
RuMR Posted November 11, 2005 Posted November 11, 2005 but what does scar tissue do to the strength of knots???? Quote
EWolfe Posted November 12, 2005 Author Posted November 12, 2005 (edited) He's right about that. You only develop calluses on the palms. The backs of your hands don't harden at all. Scar tissue weakens the skin over time. All the more reason to suffer the PAIN of a good jam, and do it clean, NancyBoys. Tape is for fixing flappers so you can keep climbing. Edited November 12, 2005 by MisterE Quote
catbirdseat Posted November 12, 2005 Posted November 12, 2005 but what does scar tissue do to the strength of knots???? What does scar tissue between your ears do? Not much I am afraid. Quote
goatboy Posted November 12, 2005 Posted November 12, 2005 but what does scar tissue do to the strength of knots???? What does scar tissue between your ears do? Not much I am afraid. NANCYBOYS??? That's a new one on me . . . I like it, though. Hey Mister E, I notice that you bothered to edit your amusing message....I wonder what aspect of the final product was improved by that editing effort, in your opinion? Quote
AFIVE Posted November 13, 2005 Posted November 13, 2005 I never use it and I don't get all bloddy. The occasional gobi on a hard route which falls off in a few weeks. I don't know what to say about the leather theory. It seems to be working. Not using tape also forces you to use better foot work rather than just stuffing your meat mitts into the crack without paying much attention to how you are putting it in there. Foot work is always the key! Quote
retired Posted November 15, 2005 Posted November 15, 2005 I'll stop using tape when they peel it from my cold, dead bony, girlie hands Quote
RuMR Posted November 15, 2005 Posted November 15, 2005 I never use it and I don't get all bloddy. The occasional gobi on a hard route which falls off in a few weeks. I don't know what to say about the leather theory. It seems to be working. Not using tape also forces you to use better foot work rather than just stuffing your meat mitts into the crack without paying much attention to how you are putting it in there. Foot work is always the key! you are so hard, man, so hard...wow!! Quote
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