tlinn Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 Just a couple questions: What is the best Leavenworth Guideboook to pick up? I already have the Rockfax Climbing Washington guide so I want something with more detail. Can we pick up the guidebook in Leavenworth? If so, where in Leavenworth can we pick it up? Cheers, May the sun shine on Leavenworth this weekend! I can`t wait to escape the Vancouver rain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 I would reccommend the only current guide book for leavenworth "Leavenworth Rock" by V. Kramar. Available in town at either sporting goods store I beleive. Also available at REI and other climbing shops on your drive down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted October 21, 2005 Share Posted October 21, 2005 the bookstore next to starbucks in Ltown sells the book too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StickBoy Posted October 21, 2005 Share Posted October 21, 2005 Personally, I like the older Leavenworth Rock: First Edition if you could get your hands on one. The new one is good, but the old one has good drawn out topos where as the new one just has pictures taken from varying views with lines drawn on them. Makes it kinda confusing if you haven't gone there a lot and are trying to find a specific climb. -Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 21, 2005 Share Posted October 21, 2005 I agree that the earlier editions are better. In every successive edition, he adds more new stuff but his depiction of the classics gets reduced in size and he's taken out the "Shield Detail" or whatever it was for Snow Creek Wall entirely. The drawings were, in my opinion, both more attractive and more informative than the photo's. It remains an excellent guidebook and it is WHAT YOU WANT for Leavenworth, never-the-less. For Midway, however (if you are so inclined), look at my topo: web page with link to TOPO. I believe the route has been incorrectly depicted in every guidebook - including Fred's first book! He made the first ascent, and I have seen his pictures from the first ascent and asked him about them. It looks to me as if subsequent parties found an easier way, and he reported that "variation" as the "Midway" route when he published his guidebook. The original is preferred, in my opinion, but NO guidebook has shown it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jopa Posted October 21, 2005 Share Posted October 21, 2005 The original is preferred, in my opinion, but NO guidebook has shown it. Is the original Midway the line that head's directly up from Jello Tower into a corner, then traverses right on small holds (fixed pins), then up again to the ledge? I have also seen people traverse right much sooner, as this Cascades hard-man legend is doing: I'm pretty sure most guidebooks call the above photo the original Midway, and the one that traverses right above the roof is Midway Direct. So which one is the original, Matt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted October 21, 2005 Share Posted October 21, 2005 How can a picture be more confusing (than a drawing) when looking for a route? Actually, Viktor got more complaints from various people that the drawings were confusing and pictures would be more helpful. Like anything, no matter what one does, someone is always unhappy with what is done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted October 21, 2005 Share Posted October 21, 2005 I think the pics are really nice for finding single pitch routes and identifying crag. For me at least, the line topos really shine on longer routes where route finding could be an issue. For example, I think doing orbit with just Viktor's new book and no other beta would be pretty difficult. But then again maybe I am not adventurous enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 21, 2005 Share Posted October 21, 2005 Jopa, your hard man here is on what has become the standard Midway route. Yes, I believe that higher traverse, climbing up past a fix pin and then stepping right under a small diagonal roof/crack is the original and it does not appear in the Washington Rock guides or Kramer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 21, 2005 Share Posted October 21, 2005 bwrts, I thought his drawings were excellent and, yes, in some cases more helpful than a photo. In many cases they provided quite a bit more relevant detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted October 21, 2005 Share Posted October 21, 2005 his drawings are excellent... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjizzy Posted October 21, 2005 Share Posted October 21, 2005 Thanks for the new and improved MIDWAY TOPO . I hope you didn't hurt your shoulder patting yourself on the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 Sorry to bore you, JZ. I find it fascinating that what has been described as the first crag climb in Washington and is consistently touted as one of the classics has been incorrectly documented for all these years. Yes, it is an easy climb, and popular, and most parties do just fine without the details. I think it is the best 5.6 climb around, even if some guidebooks rate it 5.5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 To answer Jopa's question completely, I believe "Midway Direct" clombs that corner system directly above Jello Towaer about twenty feet or so past where "Midway Original" exits right, and then moves slightly left, up, and back right. It is not hard, but the pro is slightly funky and I don't think this variation gets a lot of traffic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlinn Posted October 24, 2005 Author Share Posted October 24, 2005 We did the Midway Direct on Friday and found it to be quite a bit of fun. We then went for a run up Angel Crack to get a good pump going before heading for beers with friends in Leavenworth. On Saturday we went and checked out Vantage which was nice but a little crowded. I guess the Mountaineers were holding a climbing course there. Sunday we went and climbed Outer Space. What an amzing climb! And we had the place all to ourselves. Thanks for all of the guidebook help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 I saw you guys on OS yesterday when we were coming down from the Enchants. You were just getting onto the Shield--I was going to take a pic, but didn't. damn. Beautiful weekend in the hills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 (edited) I'd have to agree that the old version of Kramar's had more detail in the topos, and I still refer to it for things like Careno, Icicle Buttress, SCW, etc. The new guide of course has directions to all the new crags in it, so its a must have as well. Edited October 24, 2005 by Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 If there was a drawn topo of Condorphamine Abortion it would be alomst impossible to see any detail anyway with all the little x'es marking bolts so close together. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 The new guide of course has directions to all the new gridbolted crags in it, so its a must have as well. when are you gonna stfu about all the "gridbolting"...cause frankly youre talking outta youre ass, your exaggerations, and generalizations are offensive to people who enjoy the varying climbing experiences that abound in the l-worth area. theres options for everyone here. why be so negative, and judgemental...wtfaya? in terms of youre feelings about where route developement has been and is going, i think we all got it... thanx but anyway, just a lil' thought i wanted to share, no dis-respect intended...have FUN out there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 when are you gonna stfu about all the "gridbolting"...cause frankly youre talking outta youre ass, ... Clearly my dry humor was lost on you, my apologies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 dry humor? Ha Ha...back pedaler... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 yeah! and have FUN you motherfucker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlinn Posted October 24, 2005 Author Share Posted October 24, 2005 I saw you guys on OS yesterday when we were coming down from the Enchants. You were just getting onto the Shield--I was going to take a pic, but didn't. damn. Beautiful weekend in the hills. Oh man, too bad! We were talking about how cool it would be to get a picture of us on the route! Especially on the upper pitches. How were the Enchants? There seemed to be quite a few cars in the parking lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 FUN FUN FUN bitch bitch bitch its only fun and worthwhile MY WAY goddammit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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