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Posted

I climb on a blue and purple (1, 0) Metolius TCUs that are pretty old, and I've reslung them. They are from before the lobes were formed with little teeth, and when all three trigger wires met in the middle of the trigger. Since they have been re-slung, is anything wrong with trusting them? I haven't fallen on one yet.

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Posted

<standard internet response>

oh my god, it's just a ticking timebomb! you should send them to me so that they can be disposed of properly!

</standard internet response>

 

no, seriously, i'm sure they're fine. the little ones don't have teeth anyway (a rep once told me that the teeth don't really do anything, people just buy more when they added them). the newer ones might have better action or be have wider range or some other improvements, but unless you've been storing them in a pool of acid or a salt-water fishtank, it's hard to imagine why a metal gadget would "go bad" with age... sewn goods are another story, but since you've re-slung them, i'd say direct your worry elsewhere.

Posted

When in doubt:

 

1) Place cam in crack

 

2) Place sling on cam

 

3) Place foot in sling

 

4) JUMP UP AND DOWN VIGOROUSLY.

 

5) Replace cam on rack.

 

Any questions?

Posted
I climb on a blue and purple (1, 0) Metolius TCUs that are pretty old, and I've reslung them. They are from before the lobes were formed with little teeth, and when all three trigger wires met in the middle of the trigger. Since they have been re-slung, is anything wrong with trusting them? I haven't fallen on one yet.

 

No! No! Obsolete and dangerous!

 

You better give them to me so you aren't tempted! grin.gif

Posted
When in doubt:

 

1) Place cam in crack

 

2) Place sling on cam

 

3) Place foot in sling

 

4) JUMP UP AND DOWN VIGOROUSLY.

 

5) Replace cam on rack.

 

Any questions?

 

Be sure to put something over the cam unless you like getting your nuts/forehead/face taken out.

Posted
When in doubt:

 

1) Place cam in crack

 

2) Place sling on cam

 

3) Place foot in sling

 

4) JUMP UP AND DOWN VIGOROUSLY.

 

5) Replace cam on rack.

 

Any questions?

 

Be sure to put something over the cam unless you like getting your nuts/forehead/face taken out.

 

Something like this?

 

7509.gif

Posted
any clue on how many years old I should let a cam be before replace the original nylon sling?

 

I read spectra slings have a recommended usage of 100 days of climbing (UV exposure)... not sure if that is just someone from the industry trying to get you to buy more crap or what... maybe someone has an article? As most cam slings are nylon I'd think once it's faded or it gets any nicks or cuts (stupid crampons!) you should do it. BD and many other companies do it quick and hella cheap!

Posted
any clue on how many years old I should let a cam be before replace the original nylon sling?

 

I read spectra slings have a recommended usage of 100 days of climbing (UV exposure)... not sure if that is just someone from the industry trying to get you to buy more crap or what... maybe someone has an article? As most cam slings are nylon I'd think once it's faded or it gets any nicks or cuts (stupid crampons!) you should do it. BD and many other companies do it quick and hella cheap!

 

thanks john, i have a few old friends and TCUs (nylon) I'm wondering about.

Posted
I read spectra slings have a recommended usage of 100 days of climbing (UV exposure)... not sure if that is just someone from the industry trying to get you to buy more crap or what... maybe someone has an article?

 

i've been looking for an article too. at this point I think it the manufacturers are doing a lot of CYA, like they do with ropes.

Posted
I read spectra slings have a recommended usage of 100 days of climbing (UV exposure)

tangentially spectra sails have better UV resistance than Nylon sails; slings are similar enough.

Posted
I read spectra slings have a recommended usage of 100 days of climbing (UV exposure)

tangentially spectra sails have better UV resistance than Nylon sails; slings are similar enough.

I think that spectra isn't inherently UV resistant. Spectra sailcloth is treated with a special UV resistant finish. The only fiber I know of that has excellent UV resistance is acrilan (acrylic).
Posted

Will BD sew slings onto cams that are not of their manufacture?

I have a bunch of Metolius and ABC cams that are slung with tied slings right now, and I'd like to clean that mess up a bit.

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