Cochise questions

[goatboy]

Hello,

 

I'm heading to Cochise and would appreciate suggestions for good climbs in the 5.6-5.9 range.

 

I have a week or so to spend in the area.

 

Also, would appreciate input regarding the West side vs. the East side camping/climbing options.

 

Thanks!

 

- GB

[chucK]

Most everything I've done there is good fun.

 

Wasteland (8), Arribas Amoebas (9), Beeline (9), Warpath (9) are all really fun.

 

Moby Dick (7) was, I thought, a bit overrated but still fun.

 

We got shut down on Blood Brother (sandbag? broken hold?)

 

East side is more developed camping. West Side more primitive. You could easily visit both sides with a week.

 

 

 

[EWolfe]

Primitive camping, but free and quiet on West side. Long drive in. Bring water. Better for climbing: Moby Dick (III 5.8, 6 pitches). Highly recommended! Warpaint (III 5.10, 5 pitches) is excellent as well.

 

Pay camping with amenities on East side. Busier, but good bouldering around campsite. Access to South face;

Beeline (5.9R, 2 pitches) In the 5.10 range, Welcome to the machine (III 5.10c/d, 4-5 pitches) is well protected, and excellent.

 

 

Be advised, the climbing at Cochise is VERY SERIOUS, many of the climbs (even the lower grades) involve off-width, chimneying, and/or runouts/scary gear, old bolts, tied-off chickenheads, and licheny rock.

 

The ones I recommended are pretty well protected (for Cochise )

 

Have fun! Spot a Coatimundi for good luck!

 

Erik

[fgw]

Great area with great climbing.

Some misc. websites with bits and pieces on the Stronghold climbing:

 

http://homepage.mac.com/forest/PhotoAlbum75.html

 

http://www.eskimo.com/~marklan/stories/Cochise.html

 

http://www.summsoft.com/people/jim/Thumbs%20Area%20-%20Dragoon%20Mountains.htm

 

http://www.tucsonclimbers.org/

 

http://www.summitpost.org/show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/4153

 

 

Guidebook: Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona

by Bob Kerry

 

I might be wrong, but I think some crags might be seasonally closed for nesting (Jan-spring)????

[rat]

days of future passed (5.10 or 5.6, ao)

what's my line (5.10 or 5.6, ao)

forest lawn (5.9)

absinthe of mallet (5.9)

in addition to eric's suggestions in the 5.10 range, i recommend endgame, dem bones and cragaholic's dream. whatever you climb, remember the long slings for chickenheads.

 

as of about 4 years ago, there were a fair number of retro bolts on old routes and the sheepshead had at least one new bolted line that crossed absinthe of mallet.

 

in the unlikely event you get stormed out of the stronghold, try mendoza canyon.

 

regarding the peregrine restrictions, rockfellow domes and the surrounding 1/2 mile radius isn't closed until mid-feb or so.

Edited October 19, 2005 by rat

[goatboy]

Thanks for the recommendations!

 

How's What's My Line? Looks like a classic chickenhead wander.

 

Any other words of wisdom?

[rat]

that was 16 years ago but i remember "a sea of golden fucking knobs, man."

 

i've always preferred the westside camping---free, open grasslands and great sunsets. it's just an extra bit of walking to get to eastside routes. there are a lot of border patrol agents on the roads and there may be impromptu road checks so be careful with the road sodas. have fun. southern arizona has some great backcountry climbing.

[Otto]

Absinthe of Mallett is a particularly good climb. Six years ago the protection was good, with no worries about bad bolts or other mankiness.

[Off_White]

Rat's recommendation of Days of Future Passed is right on. If you're not climbing 5.10, you can yard on the bolt down low to get into the crack. I thought the climbing above was more like 5.8 than 5.6, but quite doable. I can't recall if the bolts on the last pitch are 1/4 or 3/8. It's a great way to get on top of the End Pinnacle.

 

Don't miss the inner passage between a couple of the Rockfellows. I can't recall which passage, but I think it's one more chasm south of the End Pinnacle gap. Best done altered and in the dark, don't forget long pants for the horizontal squeeze chimney.

 

Beware of Kerry's guide, word from those who know is that it's rife with errors and outright bullshit.

 

If you do Beeline, bring some gear to remove the dastardly hanging midstation belay that was added in the middle of the charming fingercrack. That bit of public service would be widely applauded.

 

Have fun, the Dragoons are an awesome range.

[EWolfe]

 

The location of his remains within the stronghold are only known by one white man. He has now passed away.

[goatboy]

Goatboy checking in from Tucson:

 

The trip has been great -- we climbed the Wasteland on the first day, a great (thought steep for the rating!) 5.8.

 

We spent a touristy day in Tombstone, which happened to coincide with the anniversary of the gunfight at the OK corral, which we saw reenacted -- funny stuff.

 

Then we climbed "What's my Line," a really enjoyable 5.6 featuring a SEA of chickenheads, which serve both as pro and belay anchors on this 3-pitch route.

 

We ended with Owl Rock and some other shorter stuff.

 

All routes were climbed from the West Side. Great free camping just before the pay-site.

 

More details (and photos) to come at a later date.

 

Thanks to all for the recommendations.

 

Note: I almost stepped on a rattlesnake descending from What's my Line, and was startled by another one on our final day . . . maybe not a great place to bring a dog!

 

Here in Tucson, it may be halloween weekend, but the frost is definitely NOT on the pumpkin.

[tanstaafl]

 

Here in Tucson, it may be halloween weekend, but the frost is definitely NOT on the pumpkin.

 

That's 'cause your pumpkin is smokin' hot!

 

PM/email me about the Pickets, I wanna hear it all.

[goatboy]

Hey! Are you cyber-hitting on my wife???

 

 

 

Check PM's...

[chucK]

There's a pay-site on the West side now?

 

You climbed Wasteland from the West side?

[goatboy]

Chuck,

 

Thanks for the correction -- sorry about the typo -- we climbed from the East Side only.

[faster_than_you]

Just got back from a great trip the Stronghold. Nice climbing and awesome free camping. The place is scenic, and quiet.

 

What's up with all the bolted lines that seem to cross other routes? There also seemed to be a fair number of bolted cracks AND in a few places, excessive bolts. I heard something about a territorial route war being ragged, does anyone have any info?

 

I enjoyed the trip immensely, but wondered about some of the bolting... Otherwise, Cochise rocks.

[rat]

lack of style and self-control....sorry to hear that trend has continued since the last time i was there.

[faster_than_you]

lack of style and self-control....sorry to hear that trend has continued since the last time i was there.

 

I'm surprised there isn't some sort of debate somewhere online? As stated, Cochise was great, but I was curious about the bolting/route development war and wanted to learn more...

 

Anyone know the Cochise etiquette on pulling some of the retro-bolts that are right next to PERFECTLY protectable cracks? Or pulling a set of bolt anchors that was placed near another set of bolt anchors? That is, one set of anchors would OBVIOUSLY work well instead of 2 sets. Or, what about pulling a bolt where a bolt really wasn't needed? Like at the top of route that has cracks, large boulders, cockstones, etc. to build anchors...

 

As I looked at some of the bolt placements, I kept thinking that if they those bolts were placed in J-Tree, Yosemite, or Index, someone would yank them immediately. I wouldn't say the problem was too rampant, but definitely obviously on Sheepshead.

[rat]

same as it ever was....

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1054527#1054527

[Off_White]

A friend of mine just pulled the stupid mid-pitch bolted belay on Beeline, the lovely fingercrack on the Entrance Dome. The station was added by Ben Burnham awhile back to facilitate half-rope rappels on this two pitch route, and marred the middle of the crux section. The station was widely reviled, and I'm surprised it took so long for someone to disappear that sucker.