Jarred_Jackman Posted June 30, 2002 Share Posted June 30, 2002 If you ascend the west ridge what is the easiest descent route, west ridge or east ridge? Have any of you gotten up the west ridge this year? How was it? [ 06-30-2002, 03:20 PM: Message edited by: Jarred Jackman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted June 30, 2002 Share Posted June 30, 2002 the easiest way to descend the west ridge (if there is no snow on the NW face) is to rapp down onto the NW face to about the level of the notch. Then walk the 3rd class ledges back. You could also downclimb the west ridge which would be good if there isn't a ton of people coming up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman_Clyde Posted July 1, 2002 Share Posted July 1, 2002 They say it's a couple of single rope rappels off the East side of the summit to a #rd class ledge system, which connects with the SE ridge and gives access to a snow gully back to the basin. But when I did it we downclimbed the W. Ridge, which was just as fun as climbing up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr666 Posted July 1, 2002 Share Posted July 1, 2002 Last year I was told it was easier to head down the east ridge, but we just ended up dropping our gear at the notch and rapping/simul-downclimbing the west ridge. It went quick and easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr666 Posted July 1, 2002 Share Posted July 1, 2002 quote: Originally posted by pete a: check the trip reports from a couple weeks ago. A couple parties (including a group I was in) made it up the west ridge. At the time the NW face still had tons of snow on it, and my party as well as the other we saw descended the west ridge via raps and simul-downclimbing...thats what I'd recommend. Photo from the trip I was on here: http://www.jeffstreet.net/Climbing/2002-06-15%20%20Forbidden%20Peak/triprepo rt_selected_photos.htm Great pics. There is a hell of a lot more snow than when I was up there last year. Wow, what a difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jarred_Jackman Posted July 2, 2002 Author Share Posted July 2, 2002 Hey thanks for all the info. Did you all need double ropes or just a single 60m? thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnHigh Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 If you are not comfortable with walking down steep snow two ropes are handy for rapping the couloir. Less stations to set up. Lots of webbing hanging from boths sides of the walls. One rope is suffient on the ridge, so leave the second rope at the start of the west ridge proper. Half of the ridge is 4th classish, so simul downclimbing works best on the moderate terrain. Other than that there's 2 or 3 pitches to rap on the ridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_a Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 check the trip reports from a couple weeks ago. A couple parties (including a group I was in) made it up the west ridge. At the time the NW face still had tons of snow on it, and my party as well as the other we saw descended the west ridge via raps and simul-downclimbing...thats what I'd recommend. Photo from the trip I was on here: http://www.jeffstreet.net/Climbing/2002-06-15%20%20Forbidden%20Peak/tripreport_selected_photos.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Can anyone tell me how much snow might be on the East Ridge Direct route? Thanks. I am bringing my ice screws, big wall rack, portaledge and ice tools just in case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Can anyone tell me how much snow might be on the East Ridge Direct route? Thanks. ray, there is approximatly 7,654,450 cubic tons of snow on the east ridge of forbidden at this time. disclaimer snow condtions could/will possibly change at any given time. in this case i will say there is approx. 7,654,449 cubic tons up there 47.5 minutes after this is posted. hope this helps!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Erik, I must know if the fixed lines to the summit are still intact! Is the summit register weelchair accessible. Is the desecent marked with paint and fatty 1/2 inch bolts every 30 feet!? [ 07-02-2002, 08:01 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayBonbon Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Dude, you can either have cubic feet (yard, meters, whatever) OR tons, but not cubic tons. You could also just shorten the term, since the proper scientfic terminology for anything over 2 million tons is "a buttload." FYI, for anything under .25 grams, it is "a bongload." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayBonbon Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Cavey's trying to win the "Post Like Dennis Harmon" contest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Son_of_Caveman Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Yeah, yeah, Cavey. You'll have no problem yarding your fatt ass up the hill. Bring plenty of horsecock and cheese. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Actually I am just throwing out sarcastic humor. I would really like to know if anyone has climbed the E Ridge and how it went. Thinking about hitting it up soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 The east ridge descent is fine; read Nelson's first book. I've done it twice after climbing the east ridge and north ridge routes. If you're not comfortable on the exposed third class ledges (after about five single rope raps from the top), then you should stick to the west ridge descent. Also, if you don't know which tower to look for to get back up to the east ridge, you will be frustrated and might make the local papers in the wrong sort of way. Frankly, I'd go down the west if you go up the west. No surprises that way. Hope this helps, and be sure to post of short TR. John Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 I dont like posting TRs, but if anyone asks for conditions I will tell them that. Thanks for info though. Oh yeah and hurry up and quit that damn job of yours. It's getting in the way of this climbing thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I dont like posting TRs Except of da TOOF, or pix of you in your Fedorov suit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Trs and pictures different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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