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Glacier Peak


Cpt.Caveman

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Hi fellow gapers and rock ninjas.

 

I am thinking about soloing Glacier Peak soon. Don't want to be Joe Simpson so will bring 3rd tool (not Larry) in case and no ropes.

 

How does the Sitkum Glacier look? Anybody been up there recently and climb it? I have read recent reports on other routes and snow conditions already [big Grin] Mostly interested in how many holes\crevasses might be opened up on this route...

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I skied it last year Memorial Day weekend. Skied up while roped, unropped for the ski down. We met a soloist who was on his way up but he later fell into a crevasse (snow covered) and spent the night in it. Rescued by climbers on the way up the next day. Heads up.

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Caveman,

 

I'll echo several others, having done that solo several years back. Sitkum can have open crevasses, I saw several that were open 1-2 feet and easily stepped over. For a nice loop, head over the summit and descend via Rabbit Ears to Frostbite Ridge then down and around E of Kennedy Peak, then down meadowed ridge and way trail to below the Kennedy HP. FYI, I've seen Frostbite as a lark of corn snow glissade, or very icy.

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quote:

Originally posted by Jim:

I skied it last year Memorial Day weekend. Skied up while roped, unropped for the ski down. We met a soloist who was on his way up but he later fell into a crevasse (snow covered) and spent the night in it. Rescued by climbers on the way up the next day. Heads up.

Of course last year there was a very low snow pack.

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I was there last memorial day weekend as well. I imagine that this year has much more snow than last year, so crevasses shouldn't be too large if visible at all.

 

I heard the guy who spent the night in the crevasse was wearing jeans & t-shirt, but I never saw him, so I don't really know.

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The dude that spent the night in the crevasse was wearing Jeans and a t-shirt. Oh and it was not a crevasses, it was the moat next to the rocks I believe. Ask Wayne1112 he pulled the guy out. From my experience on Glacier the only cracks on the entire thing were in the small bulge in the center of the Glacier. You should be able to figure out where that area is with out any problem.

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