ChocChick Posted August 30, 2005 Posted August 30, 2005 Has anyone been ice cragging on the Baker seracs recently? Just wondering how they are right now. I would like to plan a weekend up there, but want to go when the time is right. Any info would be appreciated! Thanks! Quote
dylan_taylor Posted October 4, 2005 Posted October 4, 2005 It was great last week. Getting colder and more brittle (more realistic!) Quote
kurthicks Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 What is the beta on Baker? approach time, distance, etc? feasible for a day trip? Quote
fishstick Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 Beta: Approach: 55-65 minutes to ice. Season: Aug to late Oct or Nov depending upon snow. Where: Lower Coleman glacier. Early season or intense sun, look for areas in the shade, and if the ice is soft, look for ice that is dirty (it will be better). Generally stay relatively low. Late season, if cold, the ice in the sun will be a higher quality. When Baker gets really brittle late season, it's unlike any waterfall problem you'll ever encounter. Often go high. Explore. Note: When climbing, think about what could fall over and sweep your area. It's not just what you're climbing that's a concern. Also note: If an area has numerous cracks and signs of stress on the ice, shit is happening. Go elsewhere. There are hundreds of safe problems down there. Final note: most toprope for the duration of their visit. Boulder! You will get vastly more mileage and have more fun. It's easily the most fun "bouldering park" I've ever encountered. Go there open-minded and explore possibilities. The area is super day-trip friendly. I've left Vancouver at 3:00 pm several times for a few hours of soloing before dark. GB Quote
kurthicks Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 thanks. What trailhead do I need to get to (no map in front of me)? I've got to go to a wedding in the area on Saturday and think this could be good on Sunday. Quote
fishstick Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 (edited) Get to Glacier Washington. Perhaps a mile east (beyond) Glacier, turn right onto glacier creek road (marked). After perhaps 7 (guess) miles, there is a VERY visibile trailhead (big parking-lot with a log-house outhouse) on your left. Park. The (that) trailhead is "Heliotrope ridge". When walking up the trail, there is a subtle fork at treeline (after 40 minutes). Stay LEFT. Do not take the fork marked "climber's route". Two options exist for getting on the glacier. One is easy to find and the other works better. The easy to find one is follow the trail to the obvious moraine. On that moraine (just above trees) is an apartment-building sized rock. A trail drops from near its lower left edge onto sub-moraines, and eventually to ice. Watch for falling rock as you get to the ice. The problem with this access is that you are above much of the climbing, and have little idea what you're missing or which areas may be free of people. The better access, is through a hidden campsite several hundred meters down the moraine from the big rock. The easiest way to get to that site, is somewhat before crossing the final (fourth) creek, a small trail turns exits the main at 90 degrees to the left, as the main trail does an 80 degree turn to the right. It's on top of a small ridge (sub-moraine). Follow that trail down, across the creek and down the side of the primary moraine (super easy to follow if you nail the trail in the first place). Cut through the campsite, and locate a trail following near the moraine's CREST down the hill (not over the edge) at the campsite's lower edge. Follow. The trail will spill-out over the moraine part way down the hill and double back up towards the glacier. Head towards the mtn and remain on the moraine until it's obvious to jump on the ice. Enjoy the view. And the climbing. Edited October 5, 2005 by fishstick Quote
Alpine_Tom Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 The trail is called the Heliotrope ridge trail. Take hw 542 (the mount baker highway) From the Glacier Public Service Center, travel east on The Mt. Baker Highway 542 for approximately 1 mile to Glacier Creek Road (Forest Service Road #39). Turn right on F.S. Road #39. Follow F.S. Road #39 for about 8 miles. The parking area and trailhead are located on the left hand side of the road. A toilet is provided at the trailhead. Quote
Jason_Martin Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 The "Hidden" camp is called Harrison Camp by the rangers and Mirkwood by local guides. Most of the summer there are toilets at the camp, but they are flown out for the winter. As of two weeks ago there was flagging on the trail from Mirkwood down to the glacier. This may or may not still be there. Try to use the trail and NOT the steep gully to the right of the trail. From the steep gully, facing the glacier, the trail can be found to the left. Jason Quote
daveheinbach Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 I was planning on heading up there this Sunday if anyone's interested. Quote
kurthicks Posted October 5, 2005 Posted October 5, 2005 might see you there if it's poor weather (meaning we can't go to Darrington). there will be 2 of us, red & green jackets... Quote
daveheinbach Posted October 6, 2005 Posted October 6, 2005 hmmm, blue jacket on me, i'm going to try and find the lower area mentioned in the beta, below the 'hidden camp' Quote
fenderfour Posted October 7, 2005 Posted October 7, 2005 I want to give y'all a warning - A Boealps class will be at Mirkwood on October 15-16. There's plenty of ice for everyone and we are a friendly group, but if you were looking for a private night in camp, you won't get it. If you are there, say hi. I'm the tall guy with beard and earrings. Quote
robert Posted October 7, 2005 Posted October 7, 2005 Wow. It is going to be crowded there this weekend. I will be there with a couple of guys and a girl. I don't know what we will be wearing, but if I see any of you I will say hi. Quote
fenderfour Posted October 7, 2005 Posted October 7, 2005 We will be there 10/15-16. This weekend I'm lazy. Quote
robert Posted October 7, 2005 Posted October 7, 2005 Right. This weekend is only the 8th and 9th. Clearly I need to have a calendar at hand. Quote
olyclimber Posted October 12, 2005 Posted October 12, 2005 I heard someone broke their leg up at Baker ice climbing last weekend? Plus some nice flesh wounds from their tools or crampons? Anyone up there know what happened? Quote
pbelitz Posted October 13, 2005 Posted October 13, 2005 That's about all there was to it, Olyclimber. An inexperienced climber tripped while walking down a low-angled bit of ice. He snagged a crampon and hurt his ankle. We carried him out pretty easily once we reached the trail. Hope he heals up fast. Quote
robert Posted October 13, 2005 Posted October 13, 2005 Paul, You don't have an email address for him do you? I wanted to see how he was doing. I have a phone number, but I couldn't find an email. I didn't want to bug him with a phone call. Robert Quote
pbelitz Posted October 13, 2005 Posted October 13, 2005 Sorry, I didn't get any contact info. Maybe one of his party will see this thread. Quote
robert Posted October 13, 2005 Posted October 13, 2005 If any of them are out there I would appreciate an update or a PM with his email address. Quote
powdrx Posted October 19, 2005 Posted October 19, 2005 Yo, I was part of the party up there Oct 9th. First off, thanks A TON to all those there who helped us haul Steve off the glacier and down to the car. We got him into Seattle and to the ER. He went into surgery that night to set his broken tibia and fix his ankle. He went home Monday night (10th). I don't know all the details, but he'll be off his feet for 12 weeks at least and then PT starts. Again, thanks guys!! Quote
pbelitz Posted October 20, 2005 Posted October 20, 2005 Thanks for the update. I'm glad to hear that everything ended up under control, but man, three months of no walking! What a harsh way to start ice climbing! Hope he heals quickly and completely. -Paul Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.