[TR] Mt. Stuart- NR and upper NE Face combo 8/13/2005

[OlegV]

Climb: Mt. Stuart-NR and upper NE Face combo

 

Date of Climb: 8/13/2005

 

Trip Report:

Just like to many others, the label “classic climb” is a cause of the great inspiration for me and, often is a fair judgment of my personal achievements in climbing. After my last trip to Boston Basin, and encountering the whole bunch of crappy climbing, I finally decide not to fuck around with poor rock, and get on some high quality granite of Stuart. Turns out, Pete wanted to do the North Ridge for a long time, and was happy to join me. The plan was to climb the upper ridge, bivy below Gendarme and complete the route via whatever variation we feel like at this point.

 

We leave Portland Saturday morning, hit the trailhead around 10 am and see our beautiful objective within 2 hours. View from the Ingalls Lake:

 

From the lake - another two hours of scree/wet glacier hiking and scrambling, and we are at the base of the upper ridge. The welcoming “fuck-you” sign somewhere low on the ridge:

 

At this point, the climbing becomes sweet as a fairytale. I can’t stop thinking that the route is architecturally constructed - perfect holds, awesome views and right exposure.

 

We simul-climb moving very efficiently, and soon reach a beautiful crack. Pete leading the crack:

 

Right before the sunset we pass two bivy sites and decide to climb farther up - past a knife ridge - to the base of Gendarme. Surprised by no suitable platform at the base of Gendarme, we downclimb back to the bivy sites and spend a chilly night at he ledges. Without sleeping bags, the night seemed long and cold. I count falling stars - four or five. We shiver wanting the night to be over. Finally, the stars slowly fade the first light strikes the sky:

 

Next morning, we decide to skip Gendarme and try the NE face variation - left of Gendarme .The NE Face route starts low down on the east face of the NR where the bottom of the NR starts. The route skirts left the gendarme for 500' exactly as we did. Climbing without beta seems appealing to us. Traverse towards the NE face:

 

We encounter a bunch of loose untouched rock covered with moss and dirt, but get through with no problems. Then comes some awesome 5.7-5.8 climbing. Pete following the best pitch of the day:

 

Feeling close victory, we hit the smooth face with a visible crack. Pete is enthusiastic about getting through this slab:

 

Unfortunately, a perfect crack turns into off-width crack and climbing stops. Our only option is is to go around - on snow (see it on the right of the slab). Pete does one foot postholing - one foot on rock combo lead (wearing rock shoes), I follow fully enjoying his boot tracks.

 

From this tough spot, only minutes separate us from to the summit. On the way up we see a guy

fast-soloing the NR and then Gendarme. Every 5 minutes he screams on the top of his lung “somebody is going to die!!!”. Is it a death wish to the others or hysteria. I am not sure.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Crampons, ice axe, rope, medium rock rack.

 

Approach Notes:

Ingalls lake,

[thelawgoddess]

great tr.

[ivan]

i like the authentic english as a second language feel - take that harry pi!

 

nice job, oleg n' pete - but now you gotta go back an do the whole damn ridge like real bastards!

 

you feel like vomiting watching homeboy solo the gendarme?

[Winter]

Nice job guys. Sounds like you saw Kristin at the lake on the way over. What a great weekend!!

[MtnHigh]

As Oleg and I are nearing Ingalls lake I faintly here my name being called from a womans voice. My first thought is I'm day dreaming, woman are haunting me even as I climb. Then the voice calls again and I see a beautiful blonde sunbathing on a rock near the lake. My thoughts run wild, who can this be. My fantasies are crushed as I approach the beauty and recognize that it is Winter's wife Kristin.

 

Hi Kristin, good to see you. What have you been up to? Chris is climbing Ingalls with Jessica, that's cool. Can I get back to my fantasy now.

[Winter]

Haha! Do you always fantasize when you're with Oleg? We had a great day on the East Ridge. I love climbing (and my wife - now quit thinking about her)!!

[DonnV]

Good job on the climb and nice TR! Your variation definitely sounds worth doing, but you gotta go back and do the direct gendarme finish sometime! With a rope, though. I don't know if I'd vomit watching someone solo it, but I'd vomit if I thought too long about soloing it myself.

 

I feel a bit shortchanged, though. I've done the NR several times, and never once have I seen a beautiful blonde sunbathing anywhere along the way. Nice bonus!

[Winter]

Ahh but DonnV you did happen to see this blonde on the West Ridge of Forbidden.

[DonnV]

Ahh but DonnV you did happen to see this blonde on the West Ridge of Forbidden.

I remember it well. She and her partner were glowing like newlyweds. But I distinctly remember that, as attractive and as welcome a sight as she was, she was dressed head to toe in climbing clothes and was definitely not sunbathing!

 

I simply think that Oleg's TR could be enhanced considerably by one or two pictures from this part of their climb.....

[OlegV]

That's what u want!

 

[Winter]

all you pervs quit ooglin my woman!

[OlegV]

sori, mai anglesh alweys get me in trobles!

[rat]

Every 5 minutes he screams on the top of his lung “somebody is going to die!!!”. Is it a death wish to the others or hysteria. I am not sure.

 

that was "you're gonna die, we're all gonna die" followed by a cackle. hard to argue with....

[kurthicks]

What's the status on crampons/axe for the glacier?

[OlegV]

You'll need them on the short and exposed section of the glacier at the base of the climb. Aluminum crampons are more than adequate.

[kurthicks]

Thanks. We found that out on Saturday. Thankfully we had brought them with us.

[sweatinoutliquor]

Hey, this thread is sweet! Nice TR Oleg et al! That shot of Pete on your favorite pitch and the one of Ingalls lake are super awesome (sorry winter, but you gotta admit it's a cool shot!). Is it me, or does that mountain rock? I can't wait to try some snow or icy routes in that area come snowtime. Thanks for sharing!

[sweatinoutliquor]

Every 5 minutes he screams on the top of his lung “somebody is going to die!!!”. Is it a death wish to the others or hysteria. I am not sure.

 

that was "you're gonna die, we're all gonna die" followed by a cackle. hard to argue with....

 

That is the best thing I have heard in a while! Just what you need to hear when your already a bit on edge cause you've been exposed for a few hours!