Self belayed climbing

[salbrecher]

can one(safely) use a Petzl ascender to self belay on a fixed top rope? The instruction guide that comes with the thing shows it can but the MEC website says not to. I've used it several times but not knowing if it should really be used kinda gets my nerves on end when climbing.

[lizard_brain]

...and who's actually taken some falls on one?

[Greg_W]

Yes, you can. I have rigged a Petzl Ascension ascender in between my harness and a webbing runner as a chest harness on a fixed top rope.

Yes, I have taken a fall and it held. I have talked to one guy who fell and the ascender torqued off the rope; so, it can happen. There is inherent risk since there is no backup to this system. It's all risk assessment, right?

Greg

[rayborbon]

I used an ascender once. SOmehow the sucker locked open when I fell. Maybe it was the locking carabiner screw gate thing that did it not sure. Needless to say I will never use one of them again for self belay.. Luckily I was not 80 feet off the deck. Now I only use a gri gri.

[Retrosaurus]

I know a guy who has often top-roped solo by rigging an ascender wall-hauler style at the top of the cliff with the climbing end of the rope counter-balanced so that the counter-weight pulls the climbing rope up and through the ascender as he climbs. His system seems somewhat safer than wearing the ascender. He's still alive.

[Gerg]

One could always go low-tech and use something like a prussik or kleimheist. not quite as convenient as ascender though.

any thoughts about a ropeman, tibloc or equivalent where the ascender is prevented from coming off the rope by a biner?

greg

[rbw1966]

quote:

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Originally posted by Greg W:

Yes, I have taken a fall and it held. I have talked to one guy who fell and the ascender torqued off the rope; so, it can happen. There is inherent risk since there is no backup to this system. It's all risk assessment, right?Greg

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I've used this system before as well. I backed it up by tying figure 8's on a bite and clipping them to an HMS on my belay loop. I liken it to jugging a fixed line--I back that up too. I've heard too many reports of jumars popping off to not back it up.

[Greg_W]

quote:

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Originally posted by rbw1966:

I've used this system before as well. I backed it up by tying figure 8's on a bite and clipping them to an HMS on my belay loop. I liken it to jugging a fixed line--I back that up too. I've heard too many reports of jumars popping off to not back it up.

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Good point, dude.

[rbw1966]

Since I got a gri-gri though I'll never use a jumar for top-rope soloing again. I still back up the gri with 8's though.

[robertm]

My buddy just got a Wren Soloist and raves about it. You need to weight the end of the rope but he says it is bomb proof.

[Dru]

Ushba makes a cool self belay device/ascender thing. You can buy them at Climb-On in Squamish. I prefer just soloing stuff I can free solo to rope soloing free climbs. For aid i use a pair of clove hitches.

[JRCO]

I just bought the petzl mini ascender ($55). It has a pin that locks the rope in place so it is nearly impossible for it to come unlocked. I also has big wide smooth teeth so as not to damage the rope in the event of a fall. I used it the first time last weekend and it worked great. It slid up the rope with ease and caught falls without any slippage. I would however recommend backing it up with something like a prussik.

[b-rock]

Anyone used a Petzl Shunt for top rope soloing? That's what a local climbing shop recomended, but I'm not sure I trust that advice...

[Nelly]

I've been using the Silent Partner for both solo top roping and solo aid and free climbing. It's by far the safest and best method I've used yet. I've used the soloist in the past and it works well too, but not and easily or, in my opinion, as safely as the Silent Partner.

[cj001f]

quote:

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Originally posted by b-rock:

Anyone used a Petzl Shunt for top rope soloing? That's what a local climbing shop recomended, but I'm not sure I trust that advice...

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I've tried a Shunt for Toproping (and a Gibbs, and a....)

The Shunt wasn't my favorite - it slipped a bit too much for comfort when I fell (and I only took short practice falls) What worried me more was the kink put in the rope at the bottom end of the shunt when weighted (and the Gibbs) I've seen photos, and heard stories of this causing rope failure at fairly low forces.

For TRing I'd go back to a Soloist - they work better with smaller Diameter ropes (~9.5mm) you can get a new cam assembly from Wren for these. It feeds much better then. Or if you've got the money - get a Silent Partner. They are supposed to be the shit.

Carl