How to clean cams?

[selkirk]

 

Any suggestions on how to clean cams? I've got a TCU with one sticky lobe that won't spring back into place properly. I'm thinking rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush right now but I was wondering if anyone had fabulous trick for it?

 

Thanks in advance.

[John Frieh]

Search the site... 2 previous threads exist.

[sobo]

This thread started out discussing cam lube, but also addressed cleaning tips. Chelle's tip (use Simple Green cleaner) and NOLSe's tip (exercise actions in boiling water - used welding gloves!) worked best for me, followed by (in my case) Metolius Cam Lube and much exercising of the spring action after application. All of my cams and biners got a bath this past winter, on a weekend with nothing else to do, and they've been working like new.

[thelawgoddess]

i could swear someone told me to just use soap and water once. the toothbrush sounds like a good idea, though!

[shapp]

From long time experience, soap and warm water is best. Not boiling if there are any plastic washers or bushings! The plastic can deform and become even more sticky. This happened to me on a first generation metolious #10. No lube should be necessary. I usually wash them once per year after average use.

[Thinker]

Isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) dip is good. Get the 3/$1 deal at the dollar store and clean away.

[Kevin_Matlock]

They can't be cleaned... simply mail them to me for proper disposal.

 

Last year I used the metolius cam cleaning kit (less than $15 at rei) on my cams and some sticky binners.

You put some sort of cleaning agent into boiling water and it fizzes. Work the device in the water. Crap comes out in droves (amazing how much was in there!). Once dry, put a little of the metolious wax-based lube on it and work it in. Done and done. Works really well!

[shapp]

buy dish soap at Kmart ($1.99), but in pot with nice warm water, work the device, let dry, don't need cam lube, done and done. Works really well. Take left over $13.00 you saved on not buying the fancy cam stuff that you don't need and buy two sixers of your favorite microbrew to drink while playing with your new clean gear.

[ketch]

I would second Shapps advice, soap and water.

I would say that cam cleaning is best done in the spring just before the weather is good. There is not many better ways to feed the stoke than a day spent fondling your gear with a few brews.

[John Frieh]

However lube does protect your cams from surface rust (much like chain lube protects your bike chain)... which will extend the life of your cams and in the end might be the more economical choice.

[Kevin_Matlock]

No shit. You're cheaping out by 13 bucks???

Fuck, I'll send you a check for the extra $$$ that your sorry ass can afford. I'll do this just so I don't have to step over your bloody corpse at the base of some wall because you didn't take care of your pro correctly.

Kmart soap... choice of a new generation.

[ketch]

I do like the lube on mine. I have liked White lightning so far and found no reason to change that. The Soap and water cleaning I am still for. The biggest challenge with white lightning is that cleaning it out pretty much requires hot water or chemicals as it is wax based.

[Ed_Hobbick]

Soap/Water and then dry and then WD-40, then wipe off. This seems to work. It may not be the best way.

[dbconlin]

I agree, soap and warm water, let dry, then lube.

Lube: I asked at a reputable shop, they recommended graphite lube (for locks, etc.) I have been using this and am pleased. White Lightning sounds like a good choice, too. You basically want something that will be a "dry" lube, so it won't attract grit and grime.

[Thinker]

Last night I talked about this with a guy who used to work at BD.

 

He said BD has an alcohol dip on their assembly line to clean the Camalots and that it wasn't uncommon to see employees dipping their cams in the alcohol to clean them...risking the ire of the production manager.

 

Top that off with a teflon-based lube and you're good to go.

[Kevin_Matlock]

I bet the alcohol dip is used more to remove "manufacturing goo" like oils and surface dirt... stuff of that nature.

I wouldn't think that it would be as effective on "outdoor goo" (grit, dirt, vegetation, skin, blood, teeth... all the usual crap). Whatever the Metolius cleaning soap is appears to be active when you add it to the boiling water. Think scrubbing bubbles! Come to think of it, wonder how well boiling water by itself would work?

You need something to actively remove the particulants.

[slothrop]

I soak my cams in JP-6 jet fuel and light them on fire to burn off the excess. I find this method is very active at removing particulants, particularly the nylon fibers that collect in a big loop at the end of the stem.

 

One time, I failed to take correct care of my pro and I nearly had incorrectly-cared-for pro. Never again, my friends, never again. It's a blessing to still be able to climb after the incident.

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

Cams are typically fairly easy to clean, due to their innovative design. The best technique is to grasp the cam by the stem and trigger bar, squeeze to retract the cam lobes fully, and carefully pull the cam free from the crack, keeping an eye out for any pods or constrictions that could impede removal. Piece of cake!