Liberty Bell, Not just the Beckey Route

[Pencil_Pusher]

Headed up there this past weekend, great day for climbing. Went up the Beckey Route and got passed by two guys in jeans, soloing the route, with PARACHUTES on their backs!!!

HOLY SHIT!!

Man, there's friggin EXTREME!! They must've gone too, because they weren't anywhere to be found once we got to the top.

On a sidenote, I tried to have someone belay me and another leader with an ATC on the third pitch. HUGE mistake on my part, insane rope drag with the belayer having a hellacious time trying to manage ropes.

Anyone know what that plate/device is that those Europeans have for belaying two climbers at once?

[forrest_m]

its called a gi-gi

[Bronco]

I'm no expert, (and I know you didn't ask) but, it seems to me that devise (Kong GiGi) was not designed for belaying 2 leaders, but 2 2nds. If you check it out, and find I'm right or wrong, post it so I will know. I've considered doing the same thing, but didn't have faith in the setup because if one climber falls, you have a handfull of trouble.

[bobinc]

The Pretzel Reverso is also intended to belay 2 2nds; haven't used it this way yet but we'll see...

[Cpt.Caveman]

http://www.kong.it/climbin2.htm

[goatboy]

I'm trying to imagine a scenario in which I would belay two leaders from one belay stance -- and I can't come up with any that make sense to me.

What was the situation?

And yes, the Gi-Gi is normally used for belaying two seconds at once. Pretty cool, practical, lightweight device.

Steve

[mattp]

I have used both the reverso and a plain ATC for belaying two followers at the same time. I fine either one satisfactory, though it is certainly much easier to use the revserso. I am sure the gigi or whatever it is would work also. I find little problem bringing up two seconds at the same time, and it not only increases the speed of a three-person party, it also allows one to coach the other if you if the third person is a novice, or it is just plain fun if both followers are comfortable on the terrain. I would not recommend belaying two climbers at once on a pitch that is not relatively straight-forward or were there is traverssing involved, but on a straight-up crack or simple line of bolts, it is quite manageable.

[Pencil_Pusher]

Yeah, I guess I pulled that idea right out of my ass.

I'd still like to hear anything about those BASE jumpers, if anyone saw them on Saturday.

As for this Gi-gi, anyone have any info on it? I've seen it (or similar) vaguely in different books. How do you like it, are the ropes easier managed with it than with the ATC or Reverso?

 

[Dru]

I got a Gi gi. I played with it a bunch. Can be really annoying to belay with on lower andgle stuff, works best if the belay is set about head height so you have lots of room to pull. I don't use it much.

Too bad there isn't an icon where the thumb sticks out sideways, neither up nor down.

[Matt_Anderson]

Saw the Gi Gi used down at Yosemite a few years ago, always wanted to try it, never got around to it. Bought the Reverso a few weeks ago, used it on two routes in the past few weeks, one 18 pitches, one 11. Each time, the person belaying the leader used a gri gri, and the leader used the reverso when belaying the second.

It rocks. Its great. I loved it. It's light, easy to use and takes about half the effort out of belaying the second (granted, not a huge amount of effort in the first place, but still appreciated when pumped.).

I used it on a couple of single line rappels, one of them on a 9.4 mm rope. It wasn't great for that: almost impossible to lock off with one hand because of to little friction (and I was cleaning, so that sucked). Throwing an extra biner through it probably would have helped a bit.

Pretty much everything I've used it on was just off vertical or steeper, so I don't know how it performs on slabs. Only belayed one climber at a time.

I'm happy I have it, don't know why a gi gi would be better.

matt

[Alex]

Pencil,

I use both a Reverso and a GiGi. I like using them because they are self-locking, and provide a hands-free belay from above for one or two seconds. The Reverso can be used additionally just like an ATC, for belaying a leader (while a GiGi cannot).

I have been climbing with the GiGi for a year now, and have done routes as diverse as Drury Falls and Medow Inspiration Route on Goat Wall with three people, in fast style, using it. I only recently got my Reverso, have only used it once, but it is pretty similar in concept to the GiGi and I like it so far!

Highly recommeded!

Alex

[verticalturtle]

I have been using my GiGi on every multi pitch route since I bought it over a year ago and love it. In tandem with another device (ATC etc.) it works great. At times when I have found myself with only the GiGi I have had to resort to a munter for lead belaying (problem fixed by the reverso). In comparison to the Reverso I find the GiGi to be a bit smoother for bringing up the second. Also the it is nice to leave the GiGi in place and set up the 2nd device for leading w/o having to take the belay off (a necessary step when moving the Reverso from 2nd belay on the anchor to lead belay).

$.02

[AJ]

I had a friend bring back a "New ALP" from France a couple years ago. It is similar to the Gi-Gi, but doesn't have the raised spine. You can belay a leader with it, but the true purpose is to belay two followers. Bruce said it was the hot ticket with guides around Chamonix at the time. Like the Gi-Gi it will autolock so you can let a hand go. Great for taking pictures of your seconds (er, clients).