sobo Posted July 15, 2005 Share Posted July 15, 2005 I would have apologized, said something to the effect that I recognize the mistake I made (not locking the biner), and that I'm glad it was a learning experience instead of an injury. I'm with goatboy. I would add "profusely" after the word "apologized". ncacscademtns: I wouldn't look at something like this scenario as an "eye for an eye" opportunity. Tradegy/serious injury/death was avoided in the first instance, and the mistake was rectified by locking the offending biner at the anchor after jeffski arrived there (I can only assume). There's no sense pushing this any further, even for the "revenge factor" that might have been savored by jeffski had he taken your course of action. Oh, and Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTIGuy Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 I'm glad that no one would mistake me for a competent climber. But yeah, this would worry me too. You probably made the right decision to not continue to put your health in his hands; no point being the accident that teaches the guy the value of safety. Not being there I can't say how sincere the fellows "sorry" was, but I guess I'd take it at face value, and just assume safety isn't topmost on the guys mind. Be glad that you spotted it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 It would be important to me to convince you I was sorry and that I had fucked up. You never know what day you're going to climb with someone for the first of many times. I've confronted people on safety issues before and haven't seen a nonchalant response but that doesn't mean the guy didn't care, just that you were unable to tell. I can't figure out how the rope could jump out of biner on a TR without the biners bouncing up and down (which shouldn't happen) whether its a locker or not. Was the rope twisty as you ascended? Antway when the voice inside said it wasn't safe you listened and thats a good thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Crash Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 Look at how many people set their top ropes with two non locking biners with gates opposite and opposed. A typical example is to just use two of your quickdraws at the top of the climb. It's the rare occasion to see someone with locking quickdraws for the anchors on a sport climb, for example (trad climbers have a more varied rack). Having a non-locked locker is just like having a regular biner. I agree that since it's a locker, locking it is better (even safer than two non-lockers) but would one argue that the rope couldn't have gotten pinched if the locker had been replaced by a non-locker instead? RE: what I'd answer, I'd apologize to a degree related to your anxiety. And remember to take advantage of a locker by locking it next time. drC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 I thought you were Miss Manners, and Cobra Commander was the Grammar Gestapo I heard that. It's Mr. Grammar to you. Perhaps you could get a lesson or two from Miss Manners. The comma is an unnecessary addition to your sentence by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted July 17, 2005 Share Posted July 17, 2005 i had been held by a single non-locking biner! The horror. Indeed.... You know.... this one time, i accidentally unclipped from the anchors... oh yeah I already told you that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted July 17, 2005 Share Posted July 17, 2005 I thought you were Miss Manners, and Cobra Commander was the Grammar Gestapo I heard that. It's Mr. Grammar to you. Perhaps you could get a lesson or two from Miss Manners. The comma is an unnecessary addition to your sentence by the way. Going 55 in a 54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 well part of that is the risk we take climbing with people we don't know. when i was in the valley in '03 i hooked up with an aussie and we went and did church bowl chimney. only my second chimney. scarry. afterwards i said to my friend "hey duncan was a pretty cool guy. the spit that collected around the corners of his mouth was nasty but overall a good guy." and my friend said, "ya but if you climb with him again you might want to throw him on a gri gri." and i said, "why?" and he said, "because he was taking a picture of you in the middle of your climb with both hands while belaying you with an atc." at first i was like "WHAT!" then i was pissed he didn't even take my address to send me the pict. after that i've been able to handle most anything. hey you tell the guy he screwed up and if he doesn't seem to take it don't climb with him anymore. he did apologize. that would be good enough for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 Well since this is cc.com n all, I just have to call bullshit on you. I cannot think of a way the rope would have slid or moved if it were pinched in the gate. I think you found the gate unscrewed and got mad about that. Many people have used apposing gates without including a locking biner at all. Obviously, it would be better to use a locking biner and lock it. But I think , if I am right about your story, you were pissing about a minor but notable infraction. Sorry to offend. It just does not seem logical. May ALL of your climbs end safely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 Well since this is cc.com n all, I just have to call bullshit on you. I cannot think of a way the rope would have slid or moved if it were pinched in the gate. I think you found the gate unscrewed and got mad about that. Many people have used apposing gates without including a locking biner at all. Obviously, it would be better to use a locking biner and lock it. But I think , if I am right about your story, you were pissing about a minor but notable infraction. Sorry to offend. It just does not seem logical. May ALL of your climbs end safely. Well said. And may I add - quit whining, you whiny ass schoolgirl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefffski Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 no i'm not exaggerating. the rope was in the gate. and i'm not whining nor did i whine. i observed the situation and commented to the guy. yes a rope can slide even if it is stuck in the gate. try it. i know that we all screw up. combinations of events create accidents. acknowledgment of our errors and weaknesses and a willingness to discuss and analyse them make us safer climbers. so i am thankful that he apologized but am not impressed with his lack of desire to fully disclose with me. from my point of view this thread is closed. should anyone want to discuss the matter further feel free to contact me personally through this site. thank you all for your comments Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griz Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 i had been held by a single non-locking biner! The horror. Yeah, I switched ropes on some TR's with another group one time. They climbed on our set up and we climbed on theirs. While I'm flailing, another guy quietly tells me the rope is just going through the runners, no binners. I couldn't get the climb so I let my build as my partner lowered me real slow like. I untied and then tore the whole group a new asshole for a couple minutes. I could care less about being polite to dumbfuck morons. Let it fly,dude, and you'll live longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 I untied and then tore the whole group a new asshole for a couple minutes. ahh, where's the video feed when we need it? (good for you, btw! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 no i'm not exaggerating. the rope was in the gate. and i'm not whining nor did i whine. i observed the situation and commented to the guy. yes a rope can slide even if it is stuck in the gate. try it. i know that we all screw up. combinations of events create accidents. acknowledgment of our errors and weaknesses and a willingness to discuss and analyse them make us safer climbers. so i am thankful that he apologized but am not impressed with his lack of desire to fully disclose with me. from my point of view this thread is closed. should anyone want to discuss the matter further feel free to contact me personally through this site. thank you all for your comments This thread isn't dead until there is profanity, threats, and high blood pressure. Good climbing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Yeah, but you can't help but love this: from my point of view this thread is closed. should anyone want to discuss the matter further feel free to contact me personally through this site. thank you all for your comments I am going to try closing a thread when I'm done with it too... Oh, and this cracks me up too: "yes a rope can slide even if it is stuck in the gate. try it. " Slide does not equal stuck. Just ask your girlfriend. Try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jedi Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 Appearently this was freak accident. The biners were opposed and opposite and your rope jumped into the gate as you approached the anchor. The guy set the biners up correctly. It sounds like he is a pretty low key guy as this incident did not frighten him. What kind of reaction would have made you feel better? Are you thinking he set the anchor incorrectly, on purpose, maybe to kill you? Sounds like some kinda freak accident. Jedi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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