dkemp Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 I'm taking my rope & rack to Squamish - never been there before. I've been scouring the guidebook for quality 5.7-and-under routes and to my surprise it looks like there is plenty enough there to keep me busy for a three-day weekend. Hoping to camp at the Chief. I have the car-camping stuff sitting in a pile ready to go. If that place is full then, er, well I dont have a backup plan really. Any suggestions re routes and camping and... well, whatever would be much appreciated. Doxey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 I would suggest you revise your route list to "quality 5.8 and under". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 The crux of the whole trip will be keeping the local hoodlum kids from burning down your tent, trashing your car, and beating you half to death. If you manage to survive all of that, make sure you don't leave any valuables visible in your car or the bastards will rob you. If you manage to avoid that, Diedre and Banana Peel are good 5.7 and under climbs, but they will be crowded. Diedre is the most crowded route I've ever seen, anywhere; even more so than 5-gallon buckets at Smiffay. That said, it IS a fun route, albeit a little greasy and polished from traffic, so get on it if you have the chance. Banana Peel is a good backup since it is in the same neighborhood. I'm sure our Canadian comrades (Dru, murraysoveriegn, Fern, Jordop, snoboy, etc) will have more, and better, suggestions on climbs. You'll have a great time and the forecast looks good. And remember to water your cactuses before you go. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Expect to wait in line on the classics unless you climb in the rain or in the early morning or late evening. Be weary of break-ins to cars. Definitely don't park on the backroad to Angel's Crest, Ultimate Everything, etc. Even the Apron parking lot is vulnerable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkemp Posted July 13, 2005 Author Share Posted July 13, 2005 I would suggest you revise your route list to "quality 5.8 and under". Hmmm, you wouldn't sandbag a guy, would'ja? I have perhaps three dozen gear leads under my belt and I'm taking it slow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 squamish 5.8 = 5.7 everywhere else... no, he's not sandbaggin' you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkemp Posted July 13, 2005 Author Share Posted July 13, 2005 squamish 5.8 = 5.7 everywhere else... no, he's not sandbaggin' you... Well now that does open up possibilities, doesnt it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 If you're pushing the 5.8 limit, Squamish (via the current guide) is a good place to do so. This thread might have a bit of what you're after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 squamish 5.8 = 5.7 everywhere else... no, he's not sandbaggin' you... Although my experience with Squamish is pretty limited, I did not find the ratings exceptionally soft there. Perhaps folks with this perception are just very familiar with the climbing at Squish? I felt the grades of the stuff I did were pretty right on (Rock On = 10a, Calculus = 5.8, etc). I dunno, I've heard several people say Squish is soft, so I guess it probably is. I guess I'm just a softie. Anyway, we should probably take the "Great Grade Debate" to another thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 With 3 dozen gear leads under your belt you should be jumping on some soft 10as. You need a plan, man. Here's whatcha should think about. 1 day at the apron. 1 day at the Bluffs, and one day split between Murrin and the Shannon Falls area. Apron day - climb Calculus Crack and one of either Diedre or Banana Peel. That's 12 pitches of 5.7. If you have time, do Pig dogs on Parade too. smoked out bluffs day - climb at least 10 of the following routes Sally 5 fingers corner crack cat crack gross incomptence easter island cold comfort burgers and fries quarryman penny lane edible panties octopus' garden in the shade davey jones locker pixie corner mosquito sphinxter quits phlegmish dance laughing crack old age move it on over first class squatters rights magical child ridge runner MCM fata morgana moominland hamish's nubile woman the GMB murrin/shannon. this day will require some runnin' around but can be done. start at shannon falls, climb klahanie crack and urine to deep head down to murrin. your ticklist there is at least 6 of the following holiday in cambodia orphan lieback crack stairway up from the bog handfull up for grabs flake off flake on wakey wakey worlds toughest milkman heart of the sun oscars slab zoe on the way home stop at comic rocks and blast up garfield Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkemp Posted July 13, 2005 Author Share Posted July 13, 2005 If you're pushing the 5.8 limit, Squamish (via the current guide) is a good place to do so. This thread might have a bit of what you're after. Ooops, er I searched cc.com but musta missed that thread . Thanks, it does have a lot of what I'm looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Diedre is worth the hassle for your first trip. Do it on a weekday and get on it early to beat the crowds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 I would think <5.7 or <5.8, you will still have a great trip. The only route I climbed that seemed noticeably soft was Klahanie, although it is exceptional at any grade. Cat crack felt like solid 5.6 to me. Penny lane felt on par with icicle 5.9s. If you spend time in the bluffs, you can always join the masses and toperope routes that you are afraid to lead. That way you can sample the harder grades and see if you are up for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 I highly reccomend High Mountain Woody on the Upper Malamute (sometime crowded). There are some other cracks, 5.9-10a/b on the same wall. They are pretty easy for the grade with one or two small well protected cruxes and the rest is pretty easy climbing. I like Dru's list above. Pretty much sums it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 klahanie crack ... YES! have a great time. it's amazing up there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 i thought banana peel was boring and unfun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 The softest pitch I've seen at Squamish is the 3rd pitch of Angel's Crest (the face-climbing crux). It's 5.10c in the latest guidebook. It's a one-move wonder with a bolt above. In a guidebook a few years older, the pitch was rated 5.10a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 actually it is 10a in the latest guidebook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 What silliness! The 10c I'm getting from Bourdon 2004. McLane 2001 lists that pitch as 10b. I'm sure folks who have gym-climbed will find that face pitch easier than the previous 10a/b(depending on who you ask) Angel Crack pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 but mclane 2005 has it as 10b straight up or 10a with the secret beta. YOUR LIBRARY RESOURCES are out of date It USED to be 10c in the Campbell guide, and it still feels fucking hard when it's wet because the holds are a bit slopy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 I always thought that figuring out how to climb something was as much part of the rating as actually climbing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 so there's no difference between, say, a sit start and a standing start in your world? or three variant finishes to a route should all be given the same grade b/c figuring out which one of them to take is purely a route finding skill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 In Squamish, I do the sit-in-the-tree start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek_the_Greek Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 It's funny how some guidebooks give beta on moves, gear to take, where the crux is, etc. (Smith) and others give you nothing. I remember the old Vogel guide to J-tree (early '90s) which gave you a crappy photo, a name and a rating for most routes. (The real crux was usually figuring out how to build a safe anchor once the climb was over.) I guess this could fit into that 'climbing is so stupid' thread, arguing over how much beta still constitutes an on-sight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 i thought banana peel was boring and unfun. Banana Peel is really fun when the wind is blowing like hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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