mvs Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 Climb: Colchuck Peak-Northeast Buttress Date of Climb: 6/26/2005 Trip Report: Theron and I had a great time on this route, although we were constantly bedeviled by "routefinding issues." The Kearney start was not accessible due to a huge moat, so we started roughly on the Beckey version, making a harder (but recommended, it was fun) start on 5.8 cracks for 25 meters straight up to reach a ledge. After flirting with "rotten pink rock" we climbed a chimney and traversed our way over to treed ledges. A really enjoyable clean 5.5 pitch in a dihedral then across a face followed. Now on the long ramp left, we probably went too far and climbed (somewhat scary) slabs to an airy belay, then were saved by a 5.8 corner crack and easier terrain that led to the ridge crest. The crest was fun for two pitches, then we traversed right to get around a headwall. Another 2-3 pitches of mid-fifth and easier topped us out 20 feet below the summit on the ridge. We saw one good fixed piton and numerous bail slings low on the route, but nothing above halfway. We took 8 hours on the route, having to backtrack or ponder situations several times. A nice adventure! Gear Notes: medium rack, 50 meter thin rope (doubled). No need for crampons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 I was just thinking about this route. Got any photos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted June 29, 2005 Author Share Posted June 29, 2005 Yeps! Here are a kupla pics: Trying to get to the ridge crest: On the crest: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 Spoke too soon... that second photo is rad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 That first one ain't too shabby either. Looks like a lot nicer climbing than I ever expected on that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 sweet! the pics are nice - not what i was expecting from the tr. adventure is good ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted June 30, 2005 Author Share Posted June 30, 2005 I guess I made it sound pretty glum then! Naw, we liked it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted July 1, 2005 Share Posted July 1, 2005 http://www.mountainwerks.org/cma/2005/colchuckb.htm Nice TR on your site! That does sound like an adventure. I especially liked the last photo showing the route with annotations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyselinck Posted July 1, 2005 Share Posted July 1, 2005 I've been wanting to do that buttress for sometime. I like that last photo to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted July 2, 2005 Author Share Posted July 2, 2005 Thanks, I made that from a high res scan of a pic I took on the Serpentine Arete one year ago. Now on this climb I got great pictures of the Arete. It's pretty cool to climb routes on opposite sides of the Colchuck Glacier Freeway from each other . Anybody do the Northeast Buttress of Dragontail? I think that is next on my list...(and the obligatory Backbone if I get the courage for 5.9 offwidth). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 4, 2005 Share Posted July 4, 2005 NE Butt on Dragontail is good. I could describe a route for you, but from reading your TR on Colchuck, it sounds like you already know the route. Go here? Go there? Fuck if I know? No bad pink rock though, and no 10c. Bring the 60m rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted July 4, 2005 Author Share Posted July 4, 2005 haha, thanks man, "<route> is good" is enough for me.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 11, 2005 Share Posted July 11, 2005 enjoyed your TR and while climbing serp arete y-day i thought you might like to see what it looked like while looking back... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted July 12, 2005 Author Share Posted July 12, 2005 Awesome shot, thanks Ivan! I can draw a line on it very easily now, I'll hook that up if anyone is innerested.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 yeah, do it and post it back here - i originally wanted to do that last weekend but the only partner i could find wasn't quite game... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted July 12, 2005 Author Share Posted July 12, 2005 (edited) 'kay, here ye are: Edited July 13, 2005 by mvs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted July 23, 2005 Share Posted July 23, 2005 What was the Colchuck glacier like? Melted out to ice or was there some snow left on it? Anyone been on it more recently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 23, 2005 Share Posted July 23, 2005 thanks ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted July 24, 2005 Share Posted July 24, 2005 Good route! better than it's neighbor Serpentine in my opinion, but I would recommend the Kearney start to Boxcar ledge instead of Beckey's standard description. More climbing on better stone make it the preferred start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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