Peter_Puget Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 Comments please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 While Galileo was clearly quite intelligent, I do not think he could single handedly take on all of the anasazi people in combat. Perhaps a more fair battle would be Galileo v. Capernicus. Or Galileo leading a whole army against the anasazi people. Otherwise kind of like comparing apples to oranges. Â (If this question was actually about 5.10 shoes, I apologize for my answer) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaps Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 Better rubber and heel is what the reviews say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 Stick with the velcros...the g's are too stiff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted June 22, 2005 Share Posted June 22, 2005 Galileo's are sporting the new rubber, as well as any of the new Anasazis that are being made I believe. Apart from this, Galileos are gonna be stiffer, that's all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 23, 2005 Author Share Posted June 23, 2005 How much does each shoe stretch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 The Galileo has, I'm told, a "more aggressive" heal box. I'm not sure "more aggressive" is better -- I've had some shoes that really cut into my heal and made me miserable and I was actually eying a pair of the "trad masters" with this issue in mind. Â I realize those are not intended for highly technical edging like the Galileo, but has anybody tried the various shoes enough to note how much the different models actually perform differently apart from how they are marketed? Â I'm looking for something that edges better than the highly flexible 5.10 shoes that I currently use (I can't remember the model) and I assume this means I want a stiffer sole (side to side) but I don't climb seriously technical stuff and I don't think I need to have something that hurts all the time. Â Does the new rubber stick any better? I do a lot of slab climbing and I'm hoping to have something that edges and smears well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 Madrocks still have the stickiest rubber around, so if you are looking for maximum slab grip, get Madrock not 5.10. FYI, the durability of the rubber is less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 How much does each shoe stretch? Â not at all...think "relax" as opposed to actually stretching... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 Madrocks still have the stickiest rubber around, so if you are looking for maximum slab grip, get Madrock not 5.10. FYI, the durability of the rubber is less. Â stickiest rubber? Welcome to marketing...uhhh gee, i fell off my latest proj cuz my shoe rubber just wasn't up to snuff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 Maybe I'm a sucker for marketing, RuMr, but it does seem to me that my 5.10's stick to slabs better than my old sportiva mytho's ever did, though the latter edged much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 mytho's edged better? man, you are waaaaay backwards, i've never been able to get mythos to edge after they were more than 2 hours out of the box...what kind of fivetens? the anazasi is an incredible edging platform...miuras are pretty good too  Personally, i can't really tell too much difference between sportiva/madrock/c4 rubber... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 (edited) Matt, I don't think the Tradmaster's would be a good slab shoes - they are soooo stiff. I think they are "trad" in an Earl Wiggans way, great for mileage on wide cracks. Caveat, I have not worn them myself, but spent time in Indian Ck with a fellow climbing in them. He had zero problem on hand or wider cracks, and zero success on climbs requiring more sensitive footwork. Â I agree with RuMR that Miura's sound like they might suit you - IF they fit, as in my experience there is a fit-schism between a 5.10 foot and a La Sprotiva foot. Edited June 23, 2005 by fern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 Madrocks still have the stickiest rubber around, so if you are looking for maximum slab grip, get Madrock not 5.10. FYI, the durability of the rubber is less. Â stickiest rubber? Welcome to marketing...uhhh gee, i fell off my latest proj cuz my shoe rubber just wasn't up to snuff... Â I have compared Madrocks to my Anasazis on technical slab, and the Madrocks were significantly better. My statement is based upon reality not marketing. Please tell me you've done the same, and aren't just guessing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 How much does each shoe stretch? Â not at all...think "relax" as opposed to actually stretching... i tried to stretch a pair of anasazi velcro shoes once. actually more than once. and i really tried - using rumr's suggestions no less. nothing doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 (edited) Madrocks still have the stickiest rubber around, so if you are looking for maximum slab grip, get Madrock not 5.10. FYI, the durability of the rubber is less. Â stickiest rubber? Welcome to marketing...uhhh gee, i fell off my latest proj cuz my shoe rubber just wasn't up to snuff... Â I have compared Madrocks to my Anasazis on technical slab, and the Madrocks were significantly better. My statement is based upon reality not marketing. Please tell me you've done the same, and aren't just guessing. Â technical slab was giving your anazasis problems?? sounds like operator error to me or maybe too much I honestly can not tell a significant difference in the rubbers...I've had mad rocks and sportivas and 5.10's and have had them all resoled and couldn't tell the difference in performance of the rubber... Â You really really think one pair of shoes over another is gonna make a difference in the performance department if each shoe fits you? Â maybe that's why i suck...i just haven't found the right sticky rubber for me... Edited June 23, 2005 by RuMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 mytho's edged better? man, you are waaaaay backwards, Â Yup, they did. My 5.10's have virtually no side-to-side rigidity and simply roll up and off small edges. As I said, I don't know the model name. Â (Like I said, though, I don't climb the highly technical stuff, so it is rare that I am trying to stand on micro edges or put my big toe in a tiny pocket, but I do find a shoe that has nearly zero performance on edged to be frustrating. Climbing on Icicle Creek slabs (mostly on tiny edges) last week, I could only smear everything and it felt like a serious limitation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 and you are saying that mythos have side-to-side rigidity? those things are made for puffin' a pipe and reading the newspaper... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 You really really think one pair of shoes over another is gonna make a difference in the performance department if each shoe fits you? Â I'm not sure what your point is, RuMr. IF you mean to say that people place way too much emphasis on getting just the right gear, I agree. Hell, I've done some of my hardest sport climbs ever in Kaukulator's and what are (to me) big technical ice climbs with an ice axe and alpine hammer. But if you are suggesting that the rubber never makes a difference, or that one shoe is always just as good as another if they fit properly, I think it is YOU that is suffering from operator error - you're not using your equipment to its best advantage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 and you are saying that mythos have side-to-side rigidity? those things are made for puffin' a pipe and reading the newspaper... Â Nope, I didn't say that at all. I said they did not roll off small edges the way that my unidentified 5.10 shoes do but yes, in fact they DO have more side to side rigidity. Want to come over to my house and squeeze them yourself? What's with the attitude here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 i disagree with you and i have an attitude? whatever matt... Â in my experience, mythos quickly degrade into an extremely comfortable, soft all day shoe...so i have an attitude because of that? well maybe so, but it seems to me that i may have an attitude but you are sporting a "sensitive" nerve...you asked for my opinion, there it is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 The new Mythos seems considerably stiffer than the old Mythos does. Â I think they are more comfortable than the Miuras, but the Miuras are really nice for Smith-style face stuff. Both do very well in cracks, but for a do-it-all type of thing I say the Mythos is nice. Especially for longer routes. I took a pair of new Miuras up the N. Ridge of Stuart if you can believe that. It was all I had. Agony. Â There is that magical week where your Mythos fit really comfortably but are not too loose, after several days of pure agony, followed by years of looseness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 I'm not sure what your point is, RuMr. IF you mean to say that people place way too much emphasis on getting just the right gear, I agree. Hell, I've done some of my hardest sport climbs ever in Kaukulator's and what are (to me) big technical ice climbs with an ice axe and alpine hammer. But if you are suggesting that the rubber never makes a difference, or that one shoe is always just as good as another if they fit properly, I think it is YOU that is suffering from operator error - you're not using your equipment to its best advantage. Â OK...let me try and spell this out really clearly...I'm a complete shoe slut...ask anyone, i've literally gone through hundreds of shoes over 18 years of climbing and i'm telling you, in my experience, the rubber on the shoe is relatively insignificant to the fit of the shoe on your foot...if the shoe rolls on your foot, you can epoxy the damn thing to the wall and you're still not gonna get the move...rubber is completely irrelevant to the performance of the shoe...hell, i even thought boreal s3 and fusion(which everyone swears sucks) worked just fine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 Relax guys, it's summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 The new Mythos seems considerably stiffer than the old Mythos does. I think they are more comfortable than the Miuras, but the Miuras are really nice for Smith-style face stuff. Both do very well in cracks, but for a do-it-all type of thing I say the Mythos is nice. Especially for longer routes. I took a pair of new Miuras up the N. Ridge of Stuart if you can believe that. It was all I had. Agony.  There is that magical week where your Mythos fit really comfortably but are not too loose, after several days of pure agony, followed by years of looseness.  isn't this exactly what i said??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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