RuMR Posted June 16, 2005 Author Posted June 16, 2005 how 'bout beer worthiness as a rating? "That was easily a two beer dealio!" Quote
thelawgoddess Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 Language doesn't get you sponsors. But then again, neither does 5.8. Quote
RuMR Posted June 16, 2005 Author Posted June 16, 2005 you and your f-ing gremlins! where do you find those???????? Quote
minx Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 Language doesn't get you sponsors. But then again, neither does 5.8. no no no dru. that's 5.fun or even fun+ depending on Quote
RuMR Posted June 16, 2005 Author Posted June 16, 2005 oh...it could be 5.sketchy"5.8-myass" also... Quote
minx Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 (edited) oh...it could be 5.sketchy"5.8-myass" also... definitely--by all means add all the adjectives you want. there are many pitches that should be rate "5.8-myass" i've also climbed 5.wtfmademethinkicouldclimbthis and 5.yeehaw i forgot 5.gawddammit Edited June 16, 2005 by minx Quote
TimL Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 Rumr...do you ever worth? Bench marks for the NW trad cliimbs....I´d call Godzilla a benchmark 5.9+, Moonshile Dihedral 5.9, Slow Children 5.10d, GNS 5.6, Clean Crack 11b, Jap Gardens 11c, GM p1 or Lions Chair 5.8, Split pilar 10b, Easter Overhang 10c, Meat Grinderr or Heart of the Country 10a, Clay 11d. I,m having problems thinkiing of a good 11a benchmark..... Quote
RuMR Posted June 16, 2005 Author Posted June 16, 2005 oh tim...you are one to talk about working...did you win the lottery or sumpin'? magic light is a good .11a...maybe the sword pitch also? Quote
forrest_m Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 how about the 4th pitch of centerfold for 11a? I'd go for the 2nd pitch of davis-holland for 10a. while i'd second slow children for 10d, those no hands rests might make it problematic as "benchmark". how about zoom instead? or the second pitch of centerfold? that's nice and sustained at the grade. Quote
TimL Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 For sure the 2nd pitch of Davis Holland for 10a! When I think of a lot of PNW roock climbing I tend to think of short cruxes followed by much less sustained climbing or good rests. It doesn´t have the suustained nature of Yosemite. Quote
Bill_Simpkins Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 Easy/doable/hard/scary/'out of my leage' --- slab/crack/face Quote
forrest_m Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 y que tal espana? has podido ver las escuelas cerca de madrid? imagino que ya sabes de esta pagina de web con su mini-guia? Quote
lunger Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 what forrest said, except maybe for first sentence. the 4th p. of centerfold is no harder than the second, though it's a crack v. face comparison. the nose at castle rock at 10d might be a benchmark contender, though the business is only like 50'. Quote
Dru Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 the problem with using one climb as a "benchmark rating" is that it leads to grade inflation. If climb X is "benchmark 10a", sooner or later Joe Crank will put up a new climb, Climb Z, and say that Climb Z is 10b because it is harder than Climb X. Then the existing Climb Y, that was 10b, will be upgraded to 10c because it is harder than Climb Z and so on. What you really need to know is the easiest and hardest climb at a particular grade. For instance if you know that Orifice Fish is the hardest 5.9 at Squamish and that Arrowroute is the easiest 10b, then you can say that Exasperator p1, being easier than Arrowroute and harder than Orifice Fish, is 10a. Except that O.F. is probably harder than Exasperator p1 and personally I think Arrowroute is easier than Exasperator too. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 5.6 => GNS 5.7 => Old grey Mare/Apron Jam 5.8 => Lizard 5.9 => Princely 5.10a => Sagg Sabre is a sandbag! Quote
AlpineK Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 Godzilla and Damnation are both 5.9 yet I would consider Damnation to be more sustained. Godzilla gets a 5.9+ from a lot of you, so where does that leave Damnation? I wouldn't call it 5.10. Quote
chucK Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 Godzilla < Damnation < Crack of Doom < Breakfast of Champions Godzilla < Princely < GM ? Quote
AlpineK Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 Princely is harder than Godzilla! I'll buy that. Quote
dberdinka Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 For instance if you know that Orifice Fish is the hardest 5.9 at Squamish .... Not harder than Brown Ale! Quote
minx Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 i thought princely used to be 5.8? doesn't seem as sustained as godzilla to me. or maybe it's just the days i've climbed each pitch Quote
MisterMo Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 Down there in the fat old man grades I read in this thread that Classic Crack is 5.9 yet Angel Crack is 5.7. I find that really interesting.......... Quote
Drederek Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 P4 of centrefold 10d. Sword 10b v3. P2 Timpitchewus 11b. Magic light 11a. Hemp Liberation 10d. P2 sunblessed 10a. South face jello tower 8. Psychopath 11a. Imperial Imposter 11a/b. Inca road 9. Quote
minx Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 just thinking...for a .9 sport revelation? except that it's 5.death to the first bolt. Quote
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