KingsMM Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 I was wondering if anyone knew about rock climbs in the Eagle Cap Wilderness. Mabe on the Matterhorn? Is the rock granite or limestone? Kip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriznitch Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 granite! i've heard rumors of people climbing the large face of the matterhorn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 There is climbing, but is probably some of the most adventerous stuff in Oregon. Check out Climbing Magazine issue 114 (1989) or issue 119 (1990) for details of a route put up by Steeve House and others outside of Enterprise in the Eagle Caps. Reportedly 5.10 six or 7 pitches and reportedly good by other sources. There is some adveterous climbing in the Twin Peaks area up Hurrican Creek around this area: http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?z=11&...mp;layer=DRG100 Bottom line is you aint going to get much info, the area is very remote with a lot of objective danger, and you better have your shit together on adventerous alpine loose rock before you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 One more thing, there is a small crag that is not too bad up the west fork of the Wallowa upstream of Wallowa Lake about a 1/2 hike from the trailhead. It is breifly detailed at the end of a hiking book to the eagle caps (the name escapes me) there are some bolted/mixed 2 pitch routes and the area has been refered to as green springs or the dihedrals. You will have to find the book to get directions for sure, but you follow the trail to the second sitch back up the west fork, at the second switch back head straight (south) contouring on the slope for about a 1/3 of a mile or so the routes are on the southeastern side where the big corners are. Not too bad if you are in the area, but I wouldn't drive there to climb it. Also some crazy dude soloed the bigest steepest face of the matterhorn over several days a long time ago (read the trip report some place in an old mag) it was reportedly loose, scary, with some hard aid too. The only place I have climbed much there is around the Twin Peaks area and it is indeed adventerous. Bring a bolt kit, helmet and a set of binoculars and you will have some fun there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_Kirby Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 You head into the Wallowas, you better be ready to climb more than road cuts and mossy boulders. There is some amazing granite up there, but its not for the inexperienced. Approach: Drive to Joseph, walk uphill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 although I'm no geologist, most of the rock aint granite My description would be shitty limestone or some other loosish type of metamorphic rock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 there is granite in the Wallowas and some limestone. the W. Face of the Matterhorn is the largest face in Oregon, supposedly, at over 4K tall. TG was talking about putting a line up it a while back. there have been numerous attempts, some involving some spicy aid. I hadn't heard of House's line on it though, sounds interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 PM a user here named Terminal Gravity. He hasn't been around much lately, so I don't know if you'll reach him, but he's local, experienced, and a great guy. Oh, and his beer (brewery of the same name) is just splendid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_G Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 although I'm no geologist, most of the rock aint granite My description would be shitty limestone or some other loosish type of metamorphic rock The Wallowas are a real hodgepodge of geology, and the Matterhorn is definitely a prime example. When you knock on the rock near the top of the formation it sounds like Walt Disney might suddenly pop his head out of a hatch and invite you inside to check out his new ride. It also feels like rock salt held together with, well, not much. The Eagle Cap has an incredible variety of rock, from Granite to Limestone to Metamorphic. I've only done a bit of scrambling up there on a weeklong backpack, but some of the rock was outstanding, other was pretty junky... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 House's route is not on the Matterhorn. I will try to dig up the map showing the general location of the buttress. I believe it is named as the Benthos Buttress. I do know where it is it is south and west from Enterprise and is visible from the valley in some locations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 I've climbed on Benthos. Its pretty solid granite, albeit dirty from lack of activity. I'm not sure if we were on the House route or not but it was pretty easy down low. I think the last pitch had a hard section (.10?) but we bailed at this point because it was wet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 KingsMM: A little "not so obvious keyword" searching brought up this thread from about a year and a half ago talking about climbs on the the WF of Matterhorn. It gets into the very few deets about a third of the way down, after skipping through the Sacajawea stuff. Again, TG is prolly your best bet, and also scratchandsniff, for info. Oh, and I prolly ought to mention wazzumountaineer - he'll get upset if I don't include him, too. That last line was just for you, wazzu... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 all of this has me inspired to head down there soon to check out some alpine routes there. Anyone interested? thanks sobo, when are you coming out to Lightning Dome area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted June 22, 2005 Share Posted June 22, 2005 thanks sobo, when are you coming out to Lightning Dome area? Should be in the relatively near future (July/August??) as now I live in The Oklahoma Dustbowl of Washington (aka Tri-Cities) and that puts me about 1.5 hours closer to LD than I was in The Palm Springs of Washington. It makes the trip an easy weekend outing now, whereas it was only really viable as a 3-day weekender before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 http://www.agpix.com/view_caption.php?image_id=472 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?z=11&...amp;layer=DRG25 Benthos Buttress go get it, please no more Mt. Hood reports Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 Shapp, the area you speak of for 2 pitch climbs is th Dihedrals. Also, I believe TG and Carsten got on House's route. Not sure if they ever finished the crux 5.10+ roof or not. I'll be out there on the 25th and August 1st for work, so I'll ask about other places if he doesn't respond. I talked to TG yesterday amd said he has been really busy with work and the new addition to the brewery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 did you ever climb at the Dihedrals ryland? any info on who did those routes? Know anything about Dunn's Bluff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 Not yet. Planning on getting in a late afternoon climb next Monday though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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