RyanTriplett Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Anyone have any thoughts on this route? It has always been something I have considered, yet never heard anything about ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 good route, very good. maybe better then lib crack and far better then thin red. do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 ok let's just end this wank fest. a competent party can climb this route easy in a day. ust fucking go, do some training climbs, then go and do this one and stop this nonsense on this bb of tortured sould wank fest. you can do it with a set and a half of cams, some stoppers and a few brass nuts. people were climbing this climb for a few decades now, it's in at least like 4 guidebooks. so stop playing sherock, and start training. the amount of time people spend on this bb vs training is so out of whack- it's just plain stupid. just shut the fuck up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Climbed this route about 6-7 years ago. P1 a loose nasty 5.7 gully - give this pitch to your partner. P2 a little manky, wandering 5.8 with a harder move on it with some decent pro but not alot. about 61 meters to the anchor out on the arete. P3 a fine stemming corner up to crack on face. Rock goes bad if you stay in the corner too long. A couple more nice pitches sets you on a wide ledge about 50 feet from LC. We traversed straight over and finished straight up LC. Easily done in a day by a party that can handle hard 5.10 climbing. The rock quality is poor at times but its nice not to have to carry up (and down) the aid gear and extra rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 ok let's just end this wank fest. a competent party can climb this route easy in a day. ust fucking go, do some training climbs, then go and do this one and stop this nonsense on this bb of tortured sould wank fest. you can do it with a set and a half of cams, some stoppers and a few brass nuts. people were climbing this climb for a few decades now, it's in at least like 4 guidebooks. so stop playing sherock, and start training. the amount of time people spend on this bb vs training is so out of whack- it's just plain stupid. just shut the fuck up! Â Hey - get and freaking grip man. I don't think he was asking "how hard is it?" in the I'm scared way (In fact I know he's more than solid - are you?) he was asking if it was worth doing. Jeezus you need to get over yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 You missed his point, Mattm. TomTom simply cut and pasted Glasgow's rant from the Liberty Crack thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunger Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 i agree with the comments above (re: the climbing on the route), better than thin red for sure, and a good day-climb if you're up to it. Â suggestion: take some big gear and climb the offwidth a few pitches up, high quality thrutching, more direct and likely more aesthetic than the manky-looking corner and subsequent traverse (this is speculation--didn't climb the corner). have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scratchandsniff Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 You missed his point, Mattm. TomTom simply cut and pasted Glasgow's rant from the Liberty Crack thread. Â OMG: Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 You missed his point, Mattm. TomTom simply cut and pasted Glasgow's rant from the Liberty Crack thread. Â Ahh - in that case no harm no foul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Yeah I wondered about the crack above the second belay and why it wasn't part of the route. Sounds like it was fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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