chucK Posted May 31, 2005 Share Posted May 31, 2005 So here's the deal. When climbing Breakfast of Champions at Index, before starting to climb I hang out from that tree just above the start and plug in a cam for my first piece of pro. The piece is much higher than I could reach from the base of the crack proper. Then I climb from the usual base of the crack, without utilizing the tree for upward progress. Is this the trad-climbing analogy of stick-clipping? Have I lost your respect for habitually performing this tactic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 31, 2005 Share Posted May 31, 2005 Have I lost your respect for habitually performing this tactic? Wait, when did you have our respect in the first place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 31, 2005 Author Share Posted May 31, 2005 anticipated reply from unanticipated source figured you would have waxed upon the virtues of stick-clips and how trad climbers were seeing the light and such Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 31, 2005 Share Posted May 31, 2005 Before reading your post I was imagining that you had invented a pole-mounted device for placing cams. It would have a string for retracting the lobes. You'd use a pair of binoculars to make sure you had a good placement, etc. Here's an opportunity for a clever guy like Bill_Simpkins to patent another new invention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted May 31, 2005 Share Posted May 31, 2005 actually here's an opportunity to laugh at you once again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 31, 2005 Share Posted May 31, 2005 Be my guest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whirlwind Posted June 1, 2005 Share Posted June 1, 2005 i have to say im gulty of this somtimes but only when there is like 10-20 ft of face climg to the crack or what not, i think it is a waste of time for BOF considering its a pefectly clean fall weather or not ur piece is at the bottom or 10 ft up. i ussally stem over to the ledge on the rt side of the crack and plug in a piece there before tackleing the crack but what ever works, as long as you don't pull on the gear, its should still be considered freed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foraker Posted June 1, 2005 Share Posted June 1, 2005 Is this the trad-climbing analogy of stick-clipping? Yes Have I lost your respect for habitually performing this tactic? No, but don't say you've done the route as it was meant to be done and as laid out by the FA. But that's just my opinion.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted June 1, 2005 Share Posted June 1, 2005 If you don't think you've led it properly yet you haven't. If you think you have then you have. Are you happy "stickclipping" this or other routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted June 1, 2005 Share Posted June 1, 2005 AID! AID! AID! [righteously indignant graemlin] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 1, 2005 Share Posted June 1, 2005 On the first ascent, Foraker, they used the tree not only to place pro, but actually to climb the route. I believe it was done that way for years and, if memory serves me correct, it was Julie Brugger and Carla Firey who first climbed it without using the tree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted June 1, 2005 Share Posted June 1, 2005 AID! AID! AID! [righteously indignant graemlin] It's only aid if you use spurs to climb the tree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted June 1, 2005 Share Posted June 1, 2005 oh who cares. this is just strategic problem solving. tree/ no tree whatever works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted June 1, 2005 Share Posted June 1, 2005 if you can injure yourself hitting the tree on the way down then the tree is in on the way up. It's only aid if you placed the tree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foraker Posted June 1, 2005 Share Posted June 1, 2005 On the first ascent, Foraker, they used the tree not only to place pro, but actually to climb the route. I believe it was done that way for years and, if memory serves me correct, it was Julie Brugger and Carla Firey who first climbed it without using the tree. . In that case, I'd say it's ok. Of course, I don't want to make myself sound like the arbiter of climbing ethics, I certainly am not. It's just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 1, 2005 Share Posted June 1, 2005 AlpineK please don't cut this tree down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 1, 2005 Share Posted June 1, 2005 It's only aid if you placed the tree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whirlwind Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 It's only aid if you placed the tree. so what if i did, whats wrong with french freeing it? btw the tree is not in the way or even that close to the climb itself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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