chucK Posted May 31, 2005 Posted May 31, 2005 So here's the deal. When climbing Breakfast of Champions at Index, before starting to climb I hang out from that tree just above the start and plug in a cam for my first piece of pro. The piece is much higher than I could reach from the base of the crack proper. Then I climb from the usual base of the crack, without utilizing the tree for upward progress. Is this the trad-climbing analogy of stick-clipping? Have I lost your respect for habitually performing this tactic? Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 31, 2005 Posted May 31, 2005 Have I lost your respect for habitually performing this tactic? Wait, when did you have our respect in the first place? Quote
chucK Posted May 31, 2005 Author Posted May 31, 2005 anticipated reply from unanticipated source figured you would have waxed upon the virtues of stick-clips and how trad climbers were seeing the light and such Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 31, 2005 Posted May 31, 2005 Before reading your post I was imagining that you had invented a pole-mounted device for placing cams. It would have a string for retracting the lobes. You'd use a pair of binoculars to make sure you had a good placement, etc. Here's an opportunity for a clever guy like Bill_Simpkins to patent another new invention. Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted May 31, 2005 Posted May 31, 2005 actually here's an opportunity to laugh at you once again! Quote
whirlwind Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 i have to say im gulty of this somtimes but only when there is like 10-20 ft of face climg to the crack or what not, i think it is a waste of time for BOF considering its a pefectly clean fall weather or not ur piece is at the bottom or 10 ft up. i ussally stem over to the ledge on the rt side of the crack and plug in a piece there before tackleing the crack but what ever works, as long as you don't pull on the gear, its should still be considered freed Quote
foraker Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 Is this the trad-climbing analogy of stick-clipping? Yes Have I lost your respect for habitually performing this tactic? No, but don't say you've done the route as it was meant to be done and as laid out by the FA. But that's just my opinion.... Quote
Drederek Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 If you don't think you've led it properly yet you haven't. If you think you have then you have. Are you happy "stickclipping" this or other routes? Quote
mattp Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 On the first ascent, Foraker, they used the tree not only to place pro, but actually to climb the route. I believe it was done that way for years and, if memory serves me correct, it was Julie Brugger and Carla Firey who first climbed it without using the tree. Quote
AlpineK Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 AID! AID! AID! [righteously indignant graemlin] It's only aid if you use spurs to climb the tree. Quote
minx Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 oh who cares. this is just strategic problem solving. tree/ no tree whatever works. Quote
fern Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 if you can injure yourself hitting the tree on the way down then the tree is in on the way up. It's only aid if you placed the tree. Quote
foraker Posted June 1, 2005 Posted June 1, 2005 On the first ascent, Foraker, they used the tree not only to place pro, but actually to climb the route. I believe it was done that way for years and, if memory serves me correct, it was Julie Brugger and Carla Firey who first climbed it without using the tree. . In that case, I'd say it's ok. Of course, I don't want to make myself sound like the arbiter of climbing ethics, I certainly am not. It's just my opinion. Quote
whirlwind Posted June 3, 2005 Posted June 3, 2005 It's only aid if you placed the tree. so what if i did, whats wrong with french freeing it? btw the tree is not in the way or even that close to the climb itself Quote
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