Good routes for beginners

[Dirtyleaf]

What are some good routes for a beginning trad climber and parnter in the WA Pass area, Stevens, Glacier Peak, and Snoqualmie Pass? I am looking for multi-pitch trad routes rated 5.7 or less but 5th class climbs not just scrambles. I know of the Beckey Route on LB and The Tooth near Alpental. Could anybody give me a list of any similar routes or climbs of the same rating? T

[Toast]

Pick up a copy of the Mountaineers Basic or Intermediate Climbs Guides. They list a bunch of easy climbs in the Cascades and Olympics. That said, here's a few off Hwy 20.

 

Cutthroat - S Butress

South Early Winters Spire - S Arete

Black Peak - NE Ridge

Kangaroo Temple - not sure route name

Burgandy Spire - East Face (I think)

Edited May 20, 2005 by Toast

[John Frieh]

Whne you say "not just scrambles" does that mean you only want 5th class rock from base to summit with no scrambling in between or is some okay?

 

Nelson's book has enough of these to keep you busy all summer.

[kurthicks]

Concord Tower, North Face is a fun 5.6, right next to the Beckey Route. The 3rd pitch ramp pitch is sweet.

Concord Tower, Cave Route. 5.6

[kenp]

yes, pick up a copy of Nelson's guide book, if you finish everything there, start on the green Beckey guide. Head up the mountain loop hwy, check out Vesper peak. Many, many other climbs in the area

[genepires]

While rated 5.8 (I think), the improbable traverse route on guye is pretty cool and well protected on the cruxes. The first couple pitches are a bit loose though.

 

Maybe as a beggining trad climber, you might be better off hitting the crags alot more. Once you get a better grip on things (no pun intended) then you take take it down a notch and hit the alpine. The alpine is no place to push limits. L'worth and squamish has tons of good multipitch lines to do. (like outer space!, just kidding)

 

Vesper can be bit challenging with finding anchors and is not a place for beginers, BTW.

 

But a few more 5.7's to think about

Prussik west ridge (yeah it is not on your areas but do it!)

Ingals south face (same as above)

sharkfin tower (sweet alpine 5.0 granite)

 

be safe

gene

[scott_johnston]

Dirtyleaf;

 

All those routes that have been suggested would be fine choices and certainly both Nelson's Selected book along with the Red Beckey guide could keep one busy for a lifetime.

 

Being a local and someone who has some experience guiding beginner to intermediate rock climbers on alpine rock routes I would suggest the following as routes to cut your alpine rock teeth on.

 

These should avoid the jam ups that can occur on some of the deservedly popular routes at WA pass that can attract several parties of relatively inexperienced climbers on any given sunny weekend day. Nothing wrong with beginners mind you but having many of them on one climb at one time can, at best, lead to a lessening of the quality of the experience for all involved and potentially become dangerous.

 

SO......

1) check out CC.com for Poster Peak- Blue buttress. Beckey calls this Pica pk in the Reg book and lists vague reports of routes. No doubt his are first ascents but the local history of these offers more recent beta. Search here and on NWMJ for info and photos.

2)Spontaneity Arete on le Petit Cheval. Search CC.com. Better quality than S arete of SEWS. This may be construed as shameless self promotion of a route I helped establish but it is still a fine route for intermediate rock climbers to learn skills in a pretty uncommitting alpine setting. And no waiting in line after walking all the way to SEWS.

3) S Butt of Cuttthroat. I think it was mentioned.

4) N Ridge of Cutthroat. Longish approach from Rainy pass but easy cross country travel in beautiful country. The ridge is great fun and moderate. Use the W approach the E side gulley to the notch is 200' runout of bad rock at around 5.8 (ask me how I found this out while guiding).

5)Avoid the W ridge of Cutthroat except as a descent od last resort. This climb should be saved till your route finding skills are better honed. Some very poor rock in places if one is not careful with route selection. I don't wear a helmet often but I do on that route!

6) A step up from beginner but super quality (the best long moderate at WA pass) is the W butt of Paisano on Silver Star. If your are ok with 5.9 gear (short crux) it is a stellar route and when linked with the normal N face of Burg makes the hike very worthwhile if long day. Beckey barely mentions it in the old book but I think he is using the updated info for his new edition.

 

These might get you started and let you figure stuff out yourself while getting to know the lay of the land up there.

 

Good Luck

Scott Johnston

[Toast]

[westex]

Help.

Im new to the area and alpine rock. I did S. Arete of SEWS last week and it was a great intro. It was only my second trad lead ever.(I did a 5.2 a leavenworth earlier in the week, first lead) I dont weant to get in over my head with as little experience as I have. Would Spont. Arete be a good next climb. Thanks for the info

[Alex]

probably not.

 

a good next set of climbs would be

S ridge of Ingalls

E ridge of Ingalls

S Face of the Tooth - a great route despite the beating it takes on this site

Beckey Route on Liberty Bell

N Face of Kangaroo Temple

W Ridge of North Twin Sister

...there are many others, search the guidebooks

[Dirtyleaf]

Sweet! Thanks for the beta. Now just to persuade my partner to take a leap of faith.

[Alpine_Tom]

Another good "beginner" route is the NE buttress of Chair Peak. It's likely to be a lot less busy than the tooth, and probably no more time from the trailhead.

But stay away from the SE gully (or whatever it's called.) It's supposed to be the easiest way up Chair peak, but it's chock full of loose rock. I chopped a rope rapelling down there.

 

Someone used to have a list of "starter" climbs on glaciers, rock, and scrambles on a website locally, but I haven't seen it for a while.

[Alpine_Tom]

Ah, here it is.

http://www.dramaticwriter.com/beginneralpine.html

 

I don't know who this guy is, so I can't really vouch for him, but these lists of beginning climbs seem pretty solid.