inacan Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 I am headed back up to Squamton to try Pipeline (again) and I'm looking to buy or borrow a huge cam. I have a #6 Camolot but it proved useless on our first attempt. Does anyone have a super old school #9 Valley Giant or a Yates Big Dude they would like to rent, lend out or sell? Reply here or at tindum@cablespeed.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 Tried a #3 Big Bro? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 Why do you take everything beautiful & make it sound dirty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 Its just in my nature Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 Why do you take everything beautiful & make it sound dirty? Â Is that a guy saying that to a girl, shits messed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murraysovereign Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 The classic solution is a #6 Camalot (formerly #5) stacked against a piece of 2X6. Seriously. In fact as I write this I'm looking at a photo of someone doing exactly that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 that photo is a joke, and it will not work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inacan Posted May 11, 2005 Author Share Posted May 11, 2005 The 2x6 deal looks a bit shaky. I can split those things with a dead blow from a 14oz hammer and it's a pain in the ass to move Big Bros up. They do make good foot holds though. What I need is a huge SLCD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 no what you need is... BIGGER BALLS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Ya as everyone knows .It was onsight soloed25 years ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Yes, imagine the mental state on that one- free solo free ascent of a stout (and unknown) off-width. There must be a good story about that one. But the advantage is.....no "worries" about placing gear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Rumor has it that he managed to actually get inside the thing...How this is possible, i have no idea, but if true would cut the "sphincter factor" in half... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 On my last hike up to the Squaw we found an 8" long 2x6 already drilled with a tape sling. It looked sketchy but got me to thinking maybe a very short piece of 3 or 4" steel pipe cut like a crown with three points on one side might work to extend the cam. But the cam would have to be retracted far enough to contact the pipe in four places which may make the pipe too long to be stable. Pipeline is such a beautiful looking line I wish you well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 But still, he probably didn't know how it was going to go down when he started. I would like to know about the motivation- girlfriend breakup, job loss, pissed off, manic-depressive Yabo style, or just plain motivation. Who's got the scoop? It was Greg Cameron right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Back then, i think most people that actually climbed were by and large much more confident/secure/ and stable in ow and squeeze action than today...in fact OW were sought out as a reliable weakness to follow...he probably figured he could just downclimb it... Â I remember talking to bridwell at the base of ElCap and how he was saying that back then, all ow were basically solos and he specifically described Sachar's ascent of Ahab...and Pratt (I think?) on Twilight Zone...that was just the way it was done back then and i don't think Cameron had any different/special mindset than the valley guys did... Â i'm glad that i climb in the "cam-era"...i would not have climbed back then, i think...my nutz are totally insufficient for that stuff!!!! Â DarrylC...what are your thoughts on this? Being an ex-cali lad and all... Â you can not train for this stuff in the gyms... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 my nutz are totally insufficient Are you sure you want to be saying that on this site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 ...its true... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Good points RuMR- lots of wide stuff got done in the old school way (i.e. little pro) and routes like Twilight Zone at Yos and Crack of Fear in CO and stuff at Veadouwoo were stout tests also. And fingers of steel trained at the gym won't help with those hand stacks and chicken wings! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 my nutz are totally insufficient Are you sure you want to be saying that on this site  I think it is a requirement for posting on this site! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 ture dat...otw, we'd be out climbing instead of sprayin'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Anyway inacan, all this discussion doesn't help you in your quest. Good luck finding a big piece or two and sending Pipeline. We need pics and a TR as that is as close as most of us will ever get to that climb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 maybe you've already seen this, but do a google search for: pipeline and squamish and climbing. you'll find a website of a squamish locals quest to climb that route. i've thought about emailing the guy and asking to borrow the big gear he invested in for the climb. it's worth a try. an another note, the czech guy who owns the climb on in squish (i think his name is george) says that the 2x6 cam deal will work (i think i remember something about a leader fall onto it). he's given me good beta in the past. if ya need another wc #6 give jshamster a PM. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 3 #3 1 #4 big bro  and a #6 friend on a sling attached to your harness to scoot up as you grovel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 (edited) the #6 is good for about 15~20 ft, that's it...#4 big bro is where its at...2 of those, maybe one #3 big bro... Â my pref. is the VG#9 Edited May 11, 2005 by RuMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 1x #6 Wild Country Friend 1x #4 Big Bro 2x #3 Big Bro ______________ $ 569.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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