telemarker Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Three of us were out cragging in the Icicle the other week. We were gunning for a 20 pitch day (ended up with 13)and our rules were we would french free through cruxes for time's sake. My buddy Randy and I were talking as I was belaying my friend (to remain anonymous)up Off Duty as he was yarding his way through. We were wondering what the French Free equivalent was in other sports. In hoops, if I couldn't drive by you, I would simply pick up the rock and start running to the hoop, or in Soccer, everyone can use their hands at any time. Why is French Free an acceptable form of "bending the rules" in climbing, yet in other sports it's strictly forbidden to french free your way to a monster dunk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 it's not OK, and not acceptable. you suck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swaterfall Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 fat skis and who said that french free is acceptable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 French free (or american free in france) is aid. nothing wrong with it per se but it is not the most respected style on climbs that go free. Rock shocks for DHO's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirp Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 If style could be a food then this is "french free". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted March 30, 2005 Author Share Posted March 30, 2005 fat skis and who said that french free is acceptable? Well, apparently those who credit Hans Florine with the speed record on The Nose think it's acceptable, or the Hubers for their speed ascent of Zodiac think it's okay. I just think it's odd that if Ray Allen could average 60 ppg by choosing not to dribble the basketball, he wouldn't be credited with breaking any single season scoring records. He simply wouldn't be allowed to play the game until he adhered to the ethics of basketball. I think if french free is okay in some situations (i.e., bigwall speed ascents) then it's okay in any situation. Yard away, man! Hangdogging and futzing are what's unacceptable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterMo Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 I don't think it bends any rules so long as you don't try to fool the world or yourself that you did otherwise...in which instance it would be the equivalent of peeking at Solitaire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swaterfall Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 D00d I'm so just joking. Fat skis aren't cheating. I love my teledaddys. Allbeit with dyanfits so I can lock my heels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Those guys are speed climbing big walls.... not 10a slab climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stemalot Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Those guys are speed climbing big walls.... not 10a slab climbs. how do you aid 10a slab climbs? with suction cups? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Why is French Free an acceptable form of "bending the rules" in climbing, yet in other sports it's strictly forbidden to french free your way to a monster dunk? There are no rules aside from ethics regarding environmental impact. Even then, you can screw the rules if you're elitist enough. Just don't lie about your style. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Those guys are speed climbing big walls.... not 10a slab climbs. how do you aid 10a slab climbs? with suction cups? You don't, you run them out... French Freeing (A0- [my minus sign]) is aid as was said; when speed climbing in the valley all bets are off and getting up the rock is what it's about. Texplorer here has done a one day ascent of the Nose - ask him about it. Such an ascent is quite a different beast from Lynn Hill and Brooke Sandahl freeing the Nose... Equivalents? Surfing with a tow in less than very large waves comes to mind... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Motel porno? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gosolo Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Telemarker was honest about his ascents and french free doesnt add more fixed pro to the climb. In other words it doesnt affect any other climber but him. Having yarded my way up the NoseIAD and SalatheIAD (different days) I guess I suck because of the style. Funny thing is though, I think the guys throwing shit bags off kind of sucked. If you want to learn to climb things fast, it is probably really good practice to go out on harder things than you can climb and climb them as fast as possible. How many of you stylists have ALWAYS bailed on a climb cuz you couldnt do one move near a piece? If you have then I applaud your style. Plastic telemark boots are aid..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lI1|1! Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 other sport equivalents: dr. rene richards getting a sex change operation and playing women's tennis. mike tyson biting someone's ear off. steroids. winning olympic snowboard medal and testing for pot (arguable). catamarans in the america's cup. ari parsigian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lI1|1! Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 oh yeah i forgot one: going for speed climbing records and having your internalized imaginary companions time you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 steroids catamarans in the america's cup wow, now those are good examples! Here is more french free, along the same vein corked bats heel spurs and using leashes on ice tools all wheel drive vehicles in world rally parapente off the top after you send Everest (Jean-Marc Boivin, french!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 after you send Everest Are there chains up there yet or do I still need to bring gear? Hopefully the ASCA will take care of this (along with those spinners in the yellow band). Lawson, are you listening? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gosolo Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 By the way, dont be grabbing any pro on Everest either. Its bad style. another one.... DSL Connection on cc.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek_the_Greek Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 parapente off the top after you send Everest (Jean-Marc Boivin, french!!) Whoa, dude, that's great style. using leashes on ice tools But apparently, leashless tools with pinkie ledges that support your whole hand are acceptable... "hand jammies" rubber gloves, or taping up for cracks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Masturbation. They're both pulling on your gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MATT_B Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Auto racing, like climbing there are a billion variations on the theme. What is OK in NASCAR may not be OK in drag racing or formula one or demolition durby or bouldering or mixed ice climbing or big wall climbing or or or . . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ketch Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Careful there snaileye, next thing you know someones goin drag a stock car up slow children. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 How come nobodies mentioned the mulligan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 We were wondering what the French Free equivalent was in other sports. ? clearly you are a loser. there are few sports. basketball aint one of them. basketball is a game. got it sparky? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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