emperor face

[jimlogan]

I was wondering if anyone has actually tried to repeat our route (the Stump/Logan) on the Emperor Face. I would apreciate knowing what conditions were encountered and how far up the face you got.

[specialed]

Might want to check a website on Rockies climbing like Live-the-vision. com.

 

In other news, a party did the first winter ascent this last weekend of Mt. Alberta.

[Alex]

I thought Blanchard et al did a winter ascent, or serious try, on Emperor Face last winter?

[Dru]

But it wasn't the Stump/Logan, it was Infinite Patience, the 3rd route on the face.

 

Maybe he should be offering up some sort of grant or $$$ if anyone repeats his route. Sort of like Jordan and Mike and Back of Beyond Buttress.

[jordop]

Quote

But it wasn't the Stump/Logan, it was Infinite Patience, the 3rd route on the face.

 

Maybe he should be offering up some sort of grant or $$$ if anyone repeats his route. Sort of like Jordan and Mike and Back of Beyond Buttress.

Hey I heard that. Yeah, the Logan/Stump and BOB are very similar routes in many ways. It will be an amzing feat by an incredibly strong party moving in blitzkrieg style that manages a repeat on BOB! Whew, what a horror show that route is, glad I'll never have to wrestle with those gargoyles again!

Edited June 4, 2021 by jordop

[layton]

that's sweet about the albtera n.face! winter is probably the only time to climb that thing these days.

 

I'll gladly do the 2nd ascnt of back of beyond buttress! shit was hella fun yo

[Colin]

N Face? I thought they did the Japanese route?

 

Impressive climb either way.

[JoJo]

A few comments:

Although a few parties under the radar have probably gotten on it over the years, there have been no serious attempts at the Logan/Stump route on Robson. Many a party has gone wanting - only to never leave Berg Lake. There has been at least one serious winter attempt at a new route to the left. Infinite Patience is well-right and no where near the Logan/Stump line.

The FWA of Alberta was via the Japanese Route. The NF has only 7 ascents total and hasn't been seriously attempted since the late 90s. Never mind the global warming effects on the lower icefields, the one at the top has turned into a serac. Cheers!

[tlinn]

Just wondering what the conditions are shaping up to be in the Rockies...when does the North Face of Robson usually come into condition?

 

Thanks

[glassgowkiss]

hard to say about the conditions. there was a bit more snow then normal, but on the other hand the snow was very stable in february. i looked at the peaks from the visitor center lot. a lot of blue ice. nf of athabasca was blue, a lot of ice on andromeda.

as other ascents go: wild thing on chephren was done in a nice 3 day climb. also asteroid alley was done in february. a few parties climbed Slipstream. There was a new rote on nf of white pyramid, to the right of rality bath.