cranestyle Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 I just had to give a shout out for Rocky Butte in Portland. I think it's a really underrated location. Granted, it's a top-ropers paradise, but I've done some aiding and someday when I get the guts I hope to do some trad as well. Then there is the graffiti, occasional underwear, and used needles. But, if you watch your step on the ground, the climbs can give out some big rewards. So, this thread is for anyone who would like to share in the excitement of having a local spot to hit up after a day in the cube. My current favorites are White Rabbit and a variation off the left of Emotional Rescue. What's yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 White Rabbit Phylynx Fandango Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 I I hope to do some trad as well. What routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 Rocky Butte: Nestled on the dark, dank side of the butte, base strewn with all manner of mouldering detritus, awash in freeway noise, a stone's throw from a sketchy cul-de-sac and an unsavory stretch of NE Sandy, routes covered in dirt washed down from above, and sometimes broken glass, stories of anchor tampering/theft, and a smattering of uninspiring topropes. Underrated? Hardly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted February 20, 2005 Share Posted February 20, 2005 My current favorites are White Rabbit and a variation off the left of Emotional Rescue. What's yours? Yup -agree wid dat and lots more, everything there: I'd like to give a shout out to Beacon Rock: SE Corner, Blownout, Young Warriors and Raindance, which is Rythm Method if you clip the bolts. Anyone want to shout out Broughtons or Madrone? Regards Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranestyle Posted February 22, 2005 Author Share Posted February 22, 2005 I agree, Beacon is cool, but I've never heard anything bad said about it. Dr_Flash_Amazing reiterated most of what I'd heard about the Butte, but like I said, there's a lot beneath that grungy exterior. Back to Beacon, I've only followed on the SE Corner. It was pretty exposed on some parts and lots of fun. Too bad it's closed so much of the year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranestyle Posted February 22, 2005 Author Share Posted February 22, 2005 I don't have any specific climbs in mind. I'm still pretty new to trad and leading in general, so I just find a good looking crack and get up as far as I can. Any suggestions for a good 5.8? I don't have the confidence for much more just yet (fumbling with nuts and friends half way up a crack can take it out of you.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 There are two fun cracks to the right of Silver Bullet Bluff, just to the right of Fandango, which is a very exciting lead. The one on the far right is called Superman .7? and I can't remember the one in the middle, but the one in the middle is a sweet little gem. You can lead it with a small handful of nuts and then set a top rope up off the tree at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 There are two fun cracks to the right of Silver Bullet Bluff, just to the right of Fandango, which is a very exciting lead. The one on the far right is called Superman .7? and I can't remember the one in the middle, but the one in the middle is a sweet little gem. You can lead it with a small handful of nuts and then set a top rope up off the tree at the top. Is that "Jack of Hearts"? I remember climbing a 5.9 crack in that area with some kind of card-playing name. I was on a toprope, the crack seemed thin and a little tricky to protect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 Personally, I think there are about 3-4 real climbs there and they are ho-hum. Maybe I just don't know where to look but I really hate that place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranestyle Posted February 23, 2005 Author Share Posted February 23, 2005 there are about 3-4 real climbs Just out of curiosity, which ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 ...... I've never heard anything bad said about it. You will. Wait until some F* head unclips your rope for you without your permission. Then we'll have the rest of this discussion. Re Tex: Personally, I think there are about 3-4 real climbs there and they are ho-hum. Maybe I just don't know where to look but I really hate that place. Can't argue with what you personally believe. Now: how about a shout out to Club Milf, Stoneworks or PDX rock gym now...... anyone.....anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 What about Carver? I used to go there pretty often when I lived in Stumptown. There's a fun 11b, a good 10b, and a "5.9" with one hard move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couloir Posted February 24, 2005 Share Posted February 24, 2005 Lewis and Clark State Park on the Sandy isn't bad either. Comparatively. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ireneo_Funes Posted February 24, 2005 Share Posted February 24, 2005 There are two fun cracks to the right of Silver Bullet Bluff, just to the right of Fandango, which is a very exciting lead. The one on the far right is called Superman .7? and I can't remember the one in the middle, but the one in the middle is a sweet little gem. You can lead it with a small handful of nuts and then set a top rope up off the tree at the top. Is that "Jack of Hearts"? I remember climbing a 5.9 crack in that area with some kind of card-playing name. I was on a toprope, the crack seemed thin and a little tricky to protect. Jack of Hearts is fun, but I think the route Sketchfest is talking about is to the right of it. I thought it looked like a neat line but haven't tried it yet. The pockmarked face to the left of Jack of Hearts has a challenging balancey problem that spanked me pretty good last time I was there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted February 24, 2005 Share Posted February 24, 2005 What about Carver? I used to go there pretty often when I lived in Stumptown. There's a fun 11b, a good 10b, and a "5.9" with one hard move. Carver's mostly about bouldering. There really isn't much of a variety of climbs there. That 5.9 is a pretty much a 5.7 with, as you pointed out, one spicey move on it. Madrone's got so much more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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