Sol Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Anyone got any beta on the last pitch of this route? In Cramer's Sky Valley book he says its a 10b squeeze that will only protect with big gear. How big? Also, cramer says bad anchors? Does anyone know what these bad anchors are? would be willing to fix a couple pins or drill a bolt to beef up the anchor, would either of those be a solution or is the problem bad rock? thanks for any info, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 I am 99.9% sure they have been replaced. The rock is very solid - the problem was 35yo 1/4". I have had several break, so maybe I am a bit gunshy. IIRC, bigger than a #4 friend. It is almost squeeze size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted February 10, 2005 Author Share Posted February 10, 2005 Thanks for the info. Would you recommend the last pitch? it kinda intrigues me because it was on of the first 10's put up at index. I heard the first pitch got freed, what's the rating? Also, does the first pitch get aided clean very often? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 The last pitch is a must do. I did it with a 4 camalot. It goes in at the bottom. Its not to bad. The rock is super sharp so the friction is great. Great arm bars and locker knees. The anchors on top are new. The anchors on top of p2 could use some chain though. There is a shit load of webbing up there now. Â The first pitch is 12d. mostly sustained easy 11 with one show stopper move at the end. It should alway go clean, but what I see at index still always amazes me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted February 10, 2005 Author Share Posted February 10, 2005 It should alway go clean, but what I see at index still always amazes me. Â Thanks for the beta. Interesting that in the Sky Valley guide the first pitch is rated 5.11 A2, even though C ratings are prevelant on many of the aid climbs in the book. ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 The last pitch is a must do. I did it with a 4 camalot. It goes in at the bottom. Its not to bad. The rock is super sharp so the friction is great. Great arm bars and locker knees. The anchors on top are new. The anchors on top of p2 could use some chain though. There is a shit load of webbing up there now. The first pitch is 12d. mostly sustained easy 11 with one show stopper move at the end. It should alway go clean, but what I see at index still always amazes me.  Yo Mike...did you send that first pitch? if not, who got the FA??  The whole thing is an awesome route...i came at it from Shirley for the first pitch and then followed up with the rest of Narrow Arrow... I'd bring a #4 and a #4.5 for the last pitch...i don't have the "nutz" that mike does!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 ya, it goes clean no problem! There was a screw driver at the top of first pitch last weekend. I think... i have yet to find it in my stuff so maybe i was just too fucked up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 I think Dave Moroles freed it for the FA. Â Dave I believe also soloed slow children (yikes!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 You guys climb way too hard. That is awesome. Maybe someone will gun me up the first pitch someday so I can wrassle with the 10b squeese. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Take pictures. That's the only way I'll ever see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 You guys climb way too hard. That is awesome. Maybe someone will gun me up the first pitch someday so I can wrassle with the 10b squeese. Â The third pitch (10d, i think) is truly 4 stars IMO...its got a bit of everything...i think its better than Sloe Children as far as quality.... Â I think you can probably get over to the ledge by swinging off of thin fingers...daryl, is this possible??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 ya, it goes clean no problem! There was a screw driver at the top of first pitch last weekend. I think... i have yet to find it in my stuff so maybe i was just too fucked up. Â Yes there was a screwdriver. Maybe someone used it instead of camhooks (which are very helpful). I bet one "dem queers or dykes" left it there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted February 11, 2005 Share Posted February 11, 2005 yup you can crawl thru the tree to the left off of fingers. then rap down from another set and swing over to the left to a small ledge and the anchor below the the killer 10b crack. Â i think that is how the weakasses can get over there, well i know that that beta atleast gets one to a really cool route and the upper pitch. either way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted February 11, 2005 Share Posted February 11, 2005 Rumr, I'm glad you said it, and I agree... NAD is better than Sloe Children! (only because of the roof bit, that shiz is quite memorable) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted February 23, 2005 Author Share Posted February 23, 2005 Rumr, I'm glad you said it, and I agree... NAD is better than Sloe Children! (only because of the roof bit, that shiz is quite memorable) So i've lead both sloe children and the third pitch of NAD in the past 2 weeks and although sloe children was proabaly the best finger crack i've climbed, i'd have to agree that the third pitch of NAD is the shit. as stated before its got everything fingers, hand, fist, off width. so, i've heard SC called benchmark 10+ for index; i found slow children significantly easier and less sustained than pitch 3 of NAD and would proabaly rerate the third pitch of NAD to 5.11-. Anyone agree, disagree? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 Sloe Children was originally rated 5.10c. Before small cams and sticky shoes the final corner provided more of a kick. Check out the third pitch of JG. It is similar to SC but a bit harder - maybe .11- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 You guys climb way too hard. That is awesome. Maybe someone will gun me up the first pitch someday so I can wrassle with the 10b squeese. Â The third pitch (10d, i think) is truly 4 stars IMO...its got a bit of everything...i think its better than Sloe Children as far as quality.... Â I think you can probably get over to the ledge by swinging off of thin fingers...daryl, is this possible??? Â Finally did that shit yesterday and, agreed, the 10d pitch is one of the best I've climbed at Windex - a little bit of everything. Eric W, aka Lunger, styled the 10b squeeze too. Top roped Shirley afterwards - that thing is fuckin hard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 sweet pn ya! That thing is dope, eh??? Â We did that Death to Zeke last Tuesday...that's good also, although not as long or varied... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 Heard you been getting out to Index recently. Right on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 ...still fat...sucks...but hey, it makes even easy routes fun/hard/challenging!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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