erden Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Are there any harnesses made out there with gear loops strong enough to use as tie in points for personal anchors? Someone is arguing that such harnesses are out there available on the market. Sounds like a dangerous proposition to test... Any ideas in favor of this guy? Else, I will dismiss his input. Erden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foolscongress Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 metolius now makes all its harnesses with full strength loops (or they did last year). they thought it would reduce the chance of an accident in which someone clips the wrong loop to the belay, or to rappell with. it's a nice idea, but the harnesses are a bit heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Metolius Safetech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salbrecher Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 I once rapped off a gear loop... It held Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Metolius Safetech They are heavy and they are expensive, but I know of at least one friend, who is a novice, who bought one after I told him not to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 I bet that harness is the direct result of walking through the Dihedrals area at Smith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Honestly, there are so many accidents based on lack of knowledge that it is impossible to argue against such a harness. It's an excellent piece of gear for a novice or for a person who thinks he knows it all and refuses to read the Manufacturer's recommendations on climbing gear. Beginning level climbers constantly tie in to the wrong things. They belay from the wrong places. There's a lot to remember. Why not recommend such a harness to such a person? Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bogen Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 it is impossible to argue against such a harness. Only if you believe that beginning level climbers that constantly tie into the wrong things should be allowed to live. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korup Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 I think the argument is if you learn to be a hack with a "fail-safe" harness, and do goofy things like tying into gear loops, what happens when you borrow someone else's harness? It's like learning to "belay" with a GriGri..... You gotta learn the right way to do things before you can make informed decisions about alternatives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erden Posted February 3, 2005 Author Share Posted February 3, 2005 Understood. I think I will still point out a gear loop tie/clip in to my partner and make him/her aware. It will be up to that person to decide how to proceed based on the manufacturer's instructions. Erden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 I've never had a gear loop blow out on my harness for any reason, but they seem pretty flimsy to me. I'd like to see stronger gear loops on harnesses. They don't need to hold 16Kn though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrible_ted Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 I think the Metolius is too heavy as well, but I think they're on the right track. I like the idea of engineering the harness to hold 10kN when the belt isn't doubled back. Most of the time, it is a tired, experienced climber that forgets this, not an inexperienced novice. Labelling the underside of the belt is also a reasonable idea: I put little notes like this on my shop equipment all of the time (e.g. KEEP FINGERS BACK!). The other thing I like is the idea of a second tie in point on the harness, preferably towards the back. I think it would be nice to free up space in the front of the harness, particularly when handling double-rope hanging belays. I don't necessarily need all of the gear loops able to do this, but it would be a little problematic to differentiate the 'second belay/anchor loop' from a nearby gear loop. It probably is easiest to just beef up the haul loop. -t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 I think the argument is if you learn to be a hack with a "fail-safe" harness, and do goofy things like tying into gear loops, what happens when you borrow someone else's harness? It's like learning to "belay" with a GriGri..... You gotta learn the right way to do things before you can make informed decisions about alternatives. At least you get a second chance so that you might learn the right way. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Yeah, down with heavy harness'. There are sooo many times when I am rock climbing when I say "gee, I wish my harness wasn't so heavy. I mean, I know I have 20 pounds of gear hanging from me, but if only my harness was 9oz's lighter." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 no doubt! made even worse when you are wearing the mid-weight windshirt when you only need the silkweight, thereby adding another 1.2 oz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 Well in, Roger, well in. Indeed, I blew an onsight of Sulphide Glacier because of that crap McNett seam grip. Stuff's like a boat anchor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 Yeah but its nice to have a harness that doesn't take up so much fucking space in your pack, like all these modern harnesses do with dumb plastic shit all over them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 Suitable for a rack of catnip mice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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