Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

[powderhound]

This gives you a great reason to tell your wife that you need to head out to the rockies. You are welcome anytime and we can get some good climbing in. I'll take you out to dwights old stomping grounds and see if we can't find some FA's for ya.

[nat]

On the second wall there is a slab that is good for TRin, I think that it is like 5.6 no matter which way. The slab will be to looker left of a striking overhanging finger crack. have fun good luck at getting them into it young. Wish my parents would have done the same.

 

My daughter is 2.5. She's into sesame sticks, fruit leather and exclaiming over all the bits of nature she finds when we go hiking. Maybe she'll pick up climbing, maybe not.

 

We're only interested in bouldering at this point. (I haven't tied in since 1999 and don't have a full-body harness for her.) I should have mentioned the "bouldering" word more obviously in my post.

[billcoe]

This gives you a great reason to tell your wife that you need to head out to the rockies. You are welcome anytime and we can get some good climbing in. I'll take you out to dwights old stomping grounds and see if we can't find some FA's for ya.

 

Nice! Thanks muchos for the invite Bryan. Since Dwight's name came up earlier in the summer I've been getting pre-occupied with my own mortality. Might just be a middle age thing though.

 

BTW, I bought the guidebook, and I love the fact that you all used his notes to put the book together, but thought a better intoduction/memorial would have been better. Good deal that SAR got to split up his gear.

 

Damn that Dwight was a Mensch! You're following in his footpath too.

 

Later Gater! Be burley but be safe out there in Big Sky country. I never told Dwight how much I enjoyed his company, but I'm telling you now.

 

Thanks for just being around.

[hemp22]

nat - to get to the bouldering, just follow the usual approach above, and head downhill at the obvious trail that starts in the middle of one of the walls. there's a rudimentary bouldering guide online:

http://home.earthlink.net/~mrmrsabbott/Carver_Bouldering/Carver.html

don't forget to pay your $5 at PRG to be part of the "club"

[kevbone]

The bouldering there sucks. Bring a rope and try the real climbing.

PS. this thread is way to long.

[aradia]

Stay in touch, we'll do an extra laps up Phylynx in your honor tonight.

 

Extra laps? Speak for yourself, dude. I just finished four cocktails. I'll be happy if I can get up phylynx once.

[billcoe]

Extra laps? Speak for yourself, dude. I just finished four cocktails. I'll be happy if I can get up phylynx once.

 

I didn't see this post till now, but that was great watching you flow up there (doing the extra one for Bryon) with 4 cocktails in ya!

 

For the boards info: Sean found my shovel wandering though the vertical jungle out there on the class 4 in between Bill's Buttress and Video Bluff. The dudes must have trundled some rocks and then winged the thing over the cliff.

 

BTW, theres still broken glass showing up, the number to call to report Russian's drinking at the top is 503-823-3333. These people drink their beer and slam the glass down on the rock and over the cliff. If anyone even sees them sitting up there and drinking peacefully please just call the number and report them, as far as I can tell, there is no chance to get them to change their ways short of that. Last time Sean and I saw 2 couples we talked over this issue with them, they assured us that they picked up bottles, blah blah, then threw the bottles below to shatter when they finished. We were down below and heard them.

 

 

503-823-3333

[nat]

Thanks hemp. Appreciate the link.

[John Frieh]

Ozone, Beacon, Broughton, etc etc

 

Can leave PDX around noon.

 

503.758.5772

[billcoe]

I'm out for tonight, finger tendons have requested a rest day.

[Crackman]

I'm going to take a break tonight also. Phylynx put the hurt on me - no trouble for Bill & aradia though. Might get in some lite bouldering up top.

[billcoe]

I'm going to take a break tonight also. Phylynx put the hurt on me - no trouble for Bill & aradia though. Might get in some lite bouldering up top.

 

No trouble? No trouble for Bill? You miss the part about my tendons in my fingers screaming at me this morning??

 

Lite bouldering sounds good, I might join in, I left my shoes at home- and I can pick up Seans new Tricam.

[aradia]

If anyone is planning on actually _climbing_ at the butte, let me know. I'll be somewhere around there...

[billcoe]

Check under your windshield wiper dude. I didn't have your phone number and didn't see you, just your car (saw folks on Vertical therapy). Did the lite bouldering and saw no crackman btw.

[aradia]

Check under your windshield wiper dude. I didn't have your phone number and didn't see you, just your car (saw folks on Vertical therapy). Did the lite bouldering and saw no crackman btw.

 

I got the tricam, thanks. I ended up climbing with the gals on vertical therapy, though. =D

[billcoe]

Dude! I thought you wanted to be pushing yourself on the hard 11's and 12s so I blew you off. Shit, you wind up doing 5.9 and 10a fingercracks, hell I could have climbed with you.

 

My fingers really needed a break though from the last 2 times I was hanging with you and got all beat up, I wake up at 3 am and they hurt. Later they loosen up as the day goes on... not that you give a rats ass as long as you get a belay:-)

 

 

You should try wisdom tooth to the right of Birds of Paradise, it's probably a 12. I haven't been on it for years (since I got old and fat) and have never ever seen anyone else on it, so it might be dirty.

 

Good lead too, it will take those new cams pretty good. Word to the wise- I'd try and pull that obvious flake right below the crux off on rappel first, it was slightly loose years ago, God only knows what it's thinking of doing now.

[aradia]

Dude! I thought you wanted to be pushing yourself on the hard 11's and 12s so I blew you off. Shit, you wind up doing 5.9 and 10a fingercracks, hell I could have climbed with you.

 

I know, I know! I set up a fixed line on mean street to see if I could get close enough to Packin' Heat to work the moves, but the lone tree is waaaaay far away from the route. I'd have to anchor off the guard rail and go through the blackberry bushes to get to the right spot. I saw a couple folks walking over to toothpick wall, so I joined them instead. What can I say?

 

My fingers really needed a break though from the last 2 times I was hanging with you and got all beat up, I wake up at 3 am and they hurt. Later they loosen up as the day goes on... not that you give a rats ass as long as you get a belay:-)

 

Understandable. And I'm sure I at least give a rat's ass. Maybe even a squirrel's. Hard to say.

 

You should try wisdom tooth to the right of Birds of Paradise, it's probably a 12. I haven't been on it for years (since I got old and fat) and have never ever seen anyone else on it, so it might be dirty.

 

Yeah, that's what I want to get on. A dirty route. Wonderful. I at least know that _someone_ has been getting on Packin' Heat. There's a bail sling on the second (?) bolt.

 

Good lead too, it will take those new cams pretty good. Word to the wise- I'd try and pull that obvious flake right below the crux off on rappel first, it was slightly loose years ago, God only knows what it's thinking of doing now.

 

Duly noted. I'll try to remember to take a look at it.

 

Any plans this weekend? *winkwinknudgenudge*

[billcoe]

Beacon tomorrow, like some easy cracks for finger recovery. Hows Blownout for you, I'll give you the easy pitch and JH is talking about being out there too.

 

Oh, tape might be Aid, but expect to see me covered from elbows to tips. I'm a wuss.

[aradia]

Sweet, I'll try to join up with you. What time are you looking at being there? It'd be cool to see Joseph there, too.

[billcoe]

pm

[JosephH]

Probably between 12:00-1:30 for me tomorrow as well...

[billcoe]

Probably between 12:00-1:30 for me tomorrow as well...

 

Alpine start eh?

 

My post to Sean discussed it being 93 tomorrow and Blownout being full on in the sun all day............. we might be wilted, burnt to a crisp and having a microbrew by the time you wake up

[aradia]

Augh! Not sure now if I'll be able to join you. For some odd reason, the wife actually wants to spend time with me this weekend. Weird, huh? Oh well.

[billcoe]

Augh! Not sure now if I'll be able to join you. For some odd reason, the wife actually wants to spend time with me this weekend. Weird, huh? Oh well.

 

Tell her that she's #2 on your priority list dude, we gotta go climbing.

[aradia]

Yeaaaaah.... she seemed a bit cranky, so I think the climbing has been vetoed for tomorrow. I'd like to get together with both you and Joseph sometime before the end of the season, though. FYI, I'll be gone 1 Sep to 10 Sep (but 1st/2nd will be at Smith!).