Cpt.Caveman Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 Frigid Air Buttress is the best climb in the world, do it. I also think Swain is the best guidebook author in the world. Such good info and witty remarks and useful info. How did people climb before it? If I was a girl, I'd want to have his baby. I'm also Napolean and the Queen of England. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 if you are the kind of person who thinks the approach to Cat in the Hat or Crimson Chrysalis is long you will probably end up bivying on Jubilant Song . I wouldn't recommend it as a "I only have one day to climb what should I do?" route. It's not off the loop road though, so no worry of getting a ticket if you epic. Â I really enjoyed Geronimo, but it requires greater than average skills at avoiding rappel clusters. The descent is down a chimney with a reputation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 I beg to difference the comment on the Swain guidebook. I respect your opinion however have you ever thumbed through the Climber's guide to Smith Rock? Now that is a propah guidebook. DFA - do you concur! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 Ropegun, Â I think Mike is joking. The Swain book is one of the worst. Â Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Jason Martin: Ropegun, Â I think Mike is joking. The Swain book is one of the worst. Â Jason Thanks - whew - now I can go on with the day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 stupid double posts  [ 10-17-2002, 11:55 AM: Message edited by: Ropegun2002 ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faust Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 i'm heading to red rocks in the spring and i keep hearing terrible things about the swain guide (for example, this thread) Â how bad is it? is it basically worthless (as in: "I wouldn't send my worst enemy to Leavenworth with Jeff Smoot's guide book") or is it just a little annoying? Â i have the book, should i try to get something else? is there anything else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 If you can find the old Urioste guide get it cause it tells you where all the uncrowded routes are. Â Swain guide is Ok if you can overlook his stupid grading, lame attempts at puns, and him crediting himself with the FRA of every other route at Red Rocks. Also his wildly inaccurate times for approaches and descents. Or his descriptions like "Supposed to be a 5.10 route somewhere on this face. I havent done it" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 It is important to note that that the Urioste Guide is a trad guide. You have to get the Swain book if you want to be able to find the sport climbs. Â You can get the Urioste book at Desert Rock Sports on West Charleston about fifteen minutes east of the Red Rock loop road. Â In theory Swain's next edition of his guide will be a "comprehensive" look at all routes in Red Rock. Â Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Jason Martin: It is important to note that that the Urioste Guide is a trad guide. You have to get the Swain book if you want to be able to find the sport climbs. Â You can get the Urioste book at Desert Rock Sports on West Charleston about fifteen minutes east of the Red Rock loop road. Â In theory Swain's next edition of his guide will be a "comprehensive" look at all routes in Red Rock. Â Jason Yeah but whoever would want to do something lame like sport climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Jason Martin: Routes in the Sun to Consider: (snip) Black Orpheous, 5.10a - 6 P (snip) Â Jason Hmm. If I remember correctly, the older version of the Urioste guide says Black Orpheus is 17 pitches. When I did it, we managed to shave it to 15 by running that 4th class middle ground as one. A friend of mine with a 200' rope did it in 12. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 I've never pitched out the third and fourth class. If you pitch that out it's certainly going to be a long day.  Six pitches was an estimate off the top of my head. Swain's book gives it ten pitches. I know we did it in less than that.  Jason  [ 10-17-2002, 04:46 PM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faust Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 well that doesn't sound too bad, i can handle the annoying anecdotes. sounds like it would be worth to try to pick up the other guide, though. thanks  [ 10-17-2002, 05:30 PM: Message edited by: faust ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by faust: well that doesn't sound too bad, i can handle the annoying anecdotes. sounds like it would be worth to try to pick up the other guide, though. thanks FWIW- I saw the Uroisite (sp?) guide at Marmot in Bellevue. You can probably mail order it if you want to get thinking about routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crack Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 Triassic Sands is a stellar climb in the Black Velvet, and for some reason sees much less traffic than some of the other classics at it's grade... Â and -another vote for Dark Shadows, which is pretty much right around the corner from Cat in the Hat, fun stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Jason Martin: I've never pitched out the third and fourth class. If you pitch that out it's certainly going to be a long day. Â Six pitches was an estimate off the top of my head. Swain's book gives it ten pitches. I know we did it in less than that. Â Jason By the same method, then, Solar Slab is 2 pitches long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 If you like offwidths you can climb Ixtlan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: If you like offwidths you can climb Ixtlan. Ixtlan is one of the finest most varied routes at Red Rocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: quote:Originally posted by Dru: If you like offwidths you can climb Ixtlan. Ixtlan is one of the finest most varied routes at Red Rocks. For an offwidth. Or are you referring to the bolted face pitch the OW climber gets his sport climbing buddy to lead to get him to the offwidth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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