rbw1966 Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 If you want to practice aid do the West Face of Monkey Face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 if this dude is looking to do the pioneer route to practice easy aid then he aint going to be able to get halfway up Bubba's. Go to the gorge and aid some of the 5.12 cracks so you don't bother anyone else , in all seriousness this would be some good aid practice to dial in your system and also to use some cam hooks. Â Bill --- cam hooks make the east face and northwest passage considerably easier. Infact if you are still aiding without cam hooks, I suggest that you give up your sticky rubber, chalk, and cams in your free climbing. Get out their and pick your self up a set! They are worth the exporbidant prices they charge for a couple little pieces of springy metal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 I hope this is un-needed, but dealing with an aid-noob you don't always know ====== clean aid in the gorge! no nailing on free routes unless your fingers are too big for that crucial pin scar (just kidding) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted December 20, 2004 Author Share Posted December 20, 2004 No nailing.. yet. It was great weekend out there. Temps were approaching 60 in the day and freezing at night. The bolt ladder was a hoot and the rap was ridiculous. Thanks for all the suggetions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted December 20, 2004 Share Posted December 20, 2004 fenderfour, I'm guessing the missing bolt on the ladder's been replaced? so which variation did you opt for? you must've done it satruday I'm guessing since we did not see anyone on the pillar on sunday (freakin' windy sunday on the west side anyway). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 20, 2004 Share Posted December 20, 2004 w00t! Did you do the route 13a variation or the standard? What about the Panic Point variation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted December 20, 2004 Author Share Posted December 20, 2004 No variations, just the standard routes. Â Unfortunately, the day we climbed Monkey Face (saturday), we dicked around climbing other stuff in the morning and had a little trouble finding the correct route to the notch. We ran out of time and had to bail out of the mouth. It was getting dark very quickly. Â Oh yeah, all bolts were present. Â I could have french freed the bolt ladder. The bolts were very close together. I never got past the second step in my aiders. Fifi hooks and hero loops would have done the trick with a few draws for protection. I would have had a daisy chain set up as a chicken cord in case I got tired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hanger Posted December 23, 2004 Share Posted December 23, 2004   Are you talking "Dead Baby Bubbas in a Blender"?  Tell Coylec, Chrismas vacation for him after finals I expect.  Can you believe he's leaving us for Florida til mid Jan...what an ass  'sup Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted December 23, 2004 Share Posted December 23, 2004     Tell Coylec, Chrismas vacation for him after finals I expect.  Can you believe he's leaving us for Florida til mid Jan...what an ass  'sup Bill  LO Robert! Long time no see. Say hi to T fer me:  Sounds like Coylec is gonna come back tanned and with a smile on his face. Hell, we don't even have heat in our house right now, it's too cold and wet for climbing and theres not enough snow to ski.  Hows that for a whinefest?  Fenderfour -you rapped from the mouth? Did ya have to leave some gear>?  FYI, It's about 5 min. or less to lead (free) the next pitch and there's a great rap station there. Not critizising, just saying. Heck, I once had to rap from the neck cause it got dark in Feb. after a late start on the West Face Crack route. What a f*ed up mess that was Rapping over the SE route overhanging, barely touching the rock, clawing over to the notch in pitch dark, ropes getting stuck with us standing on the notch and having to come back the next day. My friends/ride had gotten tired of waiting in the parking lot and left with my wallet and sleeping bag. It was 20 degrees farenheit and in my youthful wisdom I had tossed my down jacket down as I didn't want to destroy it (cause it was so valuable to me), and I had neglected to bring a stuff sack and/or a headlamp.  We drive into Terrebone, sleep in Bobs VW campervan, next day it woun't start, after we had pulled the distributor and carberator I started walking back to the Monkee, figuring I would free solo up to the notch, pull the ropes in the light and walk back to the VW in Terrebone. I'm picking up cans for money along the way. At one point I hear a Thwack, then silence, followed by another Thwack, which gets louder as I get closer, walking quietly, I come upon a Great Blue Heron trying to ice fish on a frozen pond. He'd steathly take a few steps, cock his head and freeze, then Thwack, right onto the ice, not penetrating. Shake his head, then repeat the process.  Make it back to Smith, there's a group in a brand new mobile home and only 1 other car in the parking lot. Place is vacant. I want a partner to climb to the top and rap down to get the ropes. I invite them to climb the Monkee - but no, turns out all the folks in the mobile home with the great looking stuff were just models posing for a Early Winters Catalog and none of them could climb. Course they didn't clue me in until my polite request for a partner had denigrated into begging and groveling. I'm almost pissing myself thinking of free soloing to the notch in that freezing cold with all the shit that had already gone wrong.  Just them Bob comes putting up, the VW had inexplicatbly started for no apparent reason.........this story goes on for a 'nother couple of pages, I should stop now.  Point is, it's remarkable how dark it gets there with no moon. Better to just get down sometimes.  You'll see it next time up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted December 27, 2004 Share Posted December 27, 2004 Got some free time this holiday season Bill? Â -just kiddin, I liked the narrative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 It was the coffee beans talkin" ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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