scrambled_legs Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 Just getting into ice climbing and had a friend tell me that you should always practice planting your feet with your heels lower than your toes. In most of the instruction books I've read it says to never relax your ankles and drop your heels, or your crampon will pivot out. Which is it? Also, can you recommend some good one pitch WI3 or easy straight forward routes that are in, close to Calgary? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 Which instruction books? The old adage is heels down... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treknclime Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 Heels down; tip-toes will cause frontpoints to shear out lots of times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 Heels down 4-sure. The idea is the front points AND the secondary point work better and cause less fatigue on your legs. The kick you use should be swinging your leg more from the hip than the knee. Â Ever hear of climbers complaining of burning calf muscles. This tends to happen on lower angle stuff because they get stretched more and it's more difficult to engage secondary points. Â What the hell book were you reading anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 heels down. who else wants to chime in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 Heels down.  Some good practice routes close to Calgary:  Canmore Junkyards This House of Sky in the Ghost Grotto The first several pitches of Cascade (walk off Climbers right) Rogans Gully, next to Cascade  Just pick of a copy of Joe Josephsons guidebook, its very well done and you'll quickly get familiar with all the good practice areas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 (edited) Hoe's down, Gz up? Edited December 6, 2004 by NOLSe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 Heels down, like Dave said don't need to drop them too far, just far enough so that your secondary points are against the ice. This will help you stabilize yourself standing on your toes, without burning out your calves. If you drop your heel to far, yes you can dissengage your front points. Â Also those climbs that Alex mention are good beginner climbs, on those you may want to practice flat footing (french technique) or mixed one flat on front point (when the ice is 60 degrees or less). It is a good way of resting your calves and it can be done on fairly steep terrain once you are accustom to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nordicpunk Posted December 8, 2004 Share Posted December 8, 2004 Heels down. When I first began climbing, I bought a book that said toes down. This is contrary to about every other thing I've read or heard of. I don't know why the auther thought this, but I would recomend "Moutaineering- the freedom of the Hills" as a really good reference book for climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JETT Posted December 12, 2004 Share Posted December 12, 2004 IT'S "G'S UP, HOE'S DOWN." AFTERALL,IN THE IMMORTAL WORDS OF SNOOP D-O-DOUBLE G "IF THAT BITCH CAN'T SWIM, SHE'S BOUND TO DRIZZOUND." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi Posted December 12, 2004 Share Posted December 12, 2004 Heel's down. It's a common beginner's mistake to want to climb toes down. As David Parker said, you want the front points AND the secondary points to catch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaee Posted December 14, 2004 Share Posted December 14, 2004 And you need to maintain the position once you hit the ice. I think the confusion here is that you want your heels lower than your toes, but once your points are set you can't drop your heels or your secondary points will lever the front points out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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