Climbing with a broken hand...

[SnowByrd]

Obviously, I know thats not gonna happen.... I broke my hand in a car accidnet on Tuesday night and now i can't climb. Is there any way to keep my 'climbing head' about me while I heal? This sounds silly...but I just learned to lead and I'm terrified I'm gonna lose it all and have to go back to following 5.4. I have surgery next week and I'll probably be in a cast for 8 weeks after that. I'll be able to ski (since I don't use my poles anyways) but if anybody has any pointers or kewl tricks to keep in climbing shape, I'm all ears I hate being injured. DAMNITDAMNITDAMNIT! Just anything to keep psyched...and maybe some rehab tricks as well.

 

I'm going to edit this and ask what I really meant....so far people have answered my nferred question... If you've been injured before, either while climbing or otherwise, would you share your experience if its not too painful and tell us how you coped with not being able to climb and what you did to keep in shape? I'm lucky....mine is not a climbing accident so therefore I don't have to face any demons when its time to get back onto the rock....I can just go climb. Kudos to everyone who has faced an injury of some sort and kept on climbin'.

Edited November 6, 2004 by SnowByrd

[Dru]

1) oNe handed bouldering

2) Slab climbing

3) This guy is climbing with a broken ANKLE

so suck it up you sissy! A broken hand, pah, I could probably still ice climb with a severed head!

[tread_tramp]

Don't worry about losing something while your injury runs its course. Climbing gets into your blood. If you lose it waiting for your hand to heal, it wasn,t there to start with. I injured both my feet well over a year ago and I still have'nt climbed anything since. Some things just take time. There are alpine climbs I'd like to do, Both place I haven't yet been and places I have been to. But just hiking up and down Mailbox Peak did a number on me last weekend. So I'm not there yet. But it's not like I've lost it.

[CPOly]

First the speeding ticket, now an accident (probably not your fault ) Either you have really bad luck or you're a horrible driver.

[ClimbingGirl33]

I had to take almost two years off while rehabilitating a knee from a car accident - if you're hooked and you're stubborn you'll be back. You'll be back faster if you let yourself heal properly.

 

I did a lot of yoga while recovering and actually climb better now with the added flexibility . . .

 

Good luck - I know it sucks!!!

 

B

[Dr_Crash]

I was driving. I have to live up to my screen name, you know. And the accident was the other car's fault (Ford Explorer lost control getting onto the freeway and slid right in front of us; Miata---us---went under it).

 

As your friend Lane says, SnowByrd: "STFU and climb, bitch!"

 

Seriously... IMO, being injured for a while isn't going to set you back in your climbing. The progress you made was mostly progress in your head and building the confidence you needed to start leading. That won't go away. I know you'll just climb stronger after your hand heals.

 

RE: skiing, bring one of your ski poles when they make the cast and ask them to make it so that you can hold the pole. I did it after a ski crash and it works wonders. I'll teach you how to use ski poles, they're very useful, so make sure you can hold them even with a cast.

 

drC

[skyclimb]

Take the time to heal properly, and from a legal standpoint, don't start climbing to quickly before you heal if you plan to be compensated accuratly for "pain and suffering".

That said, I was climbing with broken fingers three weeks after it happened last winter/spring. RING LOCKS HURT---flakes of wrath , mtb slickrock trail....hands bouncing up and down....

But it is all fun now in retrospect

keep exercising and get better quickly

[chelle]

I've taken time out from climbing twice. I sprained my neck trying to be a hotdog snowboard chick the winter after I learned to climb. I was out of the game for all sports for 2 years after that one and it sucked. Did well in my career though because I couldn't do anything else but work or read without pain.

 

I was out with a strained rotator cuff injury for most of the 2003 climbing season from a stupid gym climbing move in May. To stay in shape I hiked and jogged. Rehab was important. I tried going back to climbing too early and ended up reinjuring it which is why I was off climbing until Sep. Mentally it was hard to be out of the game and it sucked not having my usual playmates to hang with on the weekends because they were all out climbing. But once I was strong enough to climb I was back to it, although not pushing myself at my limit on lead until this season when my shoulder was strong enough.

 

You'll be back to it once you're healed. Give yourself time to heal. The rock climbing season is over and gym climbing sucks. Go skiing when you're able and concentrate on rehab to make sure the hand heals correctly (you are too young to develop a chronic problem because you didn't take the necessary time off), avoid reinjury, and have fun outdoors in the winter hiking, skiing or doing other stuff.

[markov]

I spent most of last winter skiing with a cast on my arm. It's not precisely the same experience as yours...but nevertheless it worked just fine after I bought a huuge mitt from the sale bin at REI.

 

Currently I'm laid up with a herniated lumbar disk. That's much more disabling and interferes quite a bit more with my ability to get out into the mountains. I get the impression that a positive outlook does wonders for healing time and outcomes, though. Visualize bones fusing .

[chelle]

Currently I'm laid up with a herniated lumbar disk. That's much more disabling and interferes quite a bit more with my ability to get out into the mountains. I get the impression that a positive outlook does wonders for healing time and outcomes, though. Visualize bones fusing .

 

Bummer...a positive outlook and some oxycodone will go a long way. Are you having surgery?

[cracked]

Slacklining between, say, Monkey Face and the Springboard, without a tether, will probably do well to keep your 'lead head' developing. Unless you die.

 

BTW, climbing with an injury is stupid. Been there done that. I discovered that ligaments heal faster if I quit stressing my finger. I also discovered that my ankle heals faster if I accept it, sit on my ass, and ice it for a month.

 

On a serious note, make sure that you don't go skiing, faceplant, and reinjure the damn thing.

[ashw_justin]

I also discovered that my ankle heals faster if I accept it, sit on my ass, and ice it for a month.

 

[griz]

SB, time to expand your horizons and do some mellow snowfeild slogging while your hand heals and just enjoy the scenery. The rock ain't going anywhere. Focus on letting it heal properly now.

[SnowByrd]

Currently I'm laid up with a herniated lumbar disk. That's much more disabling and interferes quite a bit more with my ability to get out into the mountains. I get the impression that a positive outlook does wonders for healing time and outcomes, though. Visualize bones fusing .

 

Bummer...a positive outlook and some oxycodone will go a long way. Are you having surgery?

 

DUDE! That So sucks! My auntie has a herniated lumbar and has has had surgery twice...still its not fixed. On a positive note, my coworker, Frank, was in so much pain from the same thing, he had surgery and was back to work the next week, even though the doc said to stay home for 2. Here I am whining about a broken thumb...You can have all my oxycodone...I like it too much and have 3 prescriptions I haven't filled yet. Get better! Do you need anything? Everyone has been SO nice to me...offering to drive me places and stuff. PM me if you need anything at all!

 

-Nina

[carolyn]

Slacklining between, say, Monkey Face and the Springboard, without a tether, will probably do well to keep your 'lead head' developing. Unless you die.

 

 

This last summer I was out completely due to a bruised/hairline fracture of the tib/fib. It sucked. i did what I could when I could, tho it never felt like enough. I could have trained my upper body more. For some reason without being able to see the results (immediately) because I couldnt climb I had a hard time motivating. Definately one regret of my injury. So, use this time to work on your lower body strength and footwork. As you begin to heal maybe climbing TR with one hand. This would be a great way to improve your footwork and balance.

 

I also took this as an opportunity to step back and reaquaint myself to life. Im pretty good at becoming hyperfocused on one activity and forgetting about everything else. I spent time with old friends (who dont climb), I read a lot, caught up on movies, played video games , took time to visit friends far away, and...taught myself to crochet! None of those chalk bags would have come about had I not injured myself.

 

In some ways I think the extended time off made me a better climber - mentally. It seems when you allow yourself to become more well rounded as a person it reflects in all of the individual activities you participate in.

 

Sorry to hear about your hand.

Do what the dr says or pay for it later.

Find a new hobby, reorient yourself to past hobbies.

My guess is your house will be immaculate most of the time!

[carolyn]

The new title of this post, "skiing with a broken hand ligament?" sounds way wacked!

[jefffski]

i broke my ankle last year skiing. spent 2 months doing nothing, 'cept walking on crutches. with rehab i was back on my feet but tried too hard to do everything i had been doing before the accident except skiing. short story--i kept reinjuring my ankle. long story--more rehab.

 

advice? take it easy. wait. the rock aint going nowhere. when the cast is off try walking, swimming, biking, leg weights and running. take up yoga and learn to crochet, play chess, spend more time with your gf etc. the rock will be there and your head will know what to do. you're an athlete. injuries are part of the game get used to it.

 

good luck

[DavidHiers]

In my limited experience, It seems that you mostly climb with your eyes and thighs (you've got to read a route, and let your legs most of the work). If you want to make lemonade from your current lemon, try climbing hands free on easy routes. You won't do any real routes, nor will you ever go very far, but you can really build your balance and footwork while you heal your busted wing.

 

I've yet to try this idea while climbing, but I know it works in other pursuits (swimming, flying, and the army all have put me through "partial loss of capability" exercises) that mimic your current dilemma.

 

Just downshift into first gear and wallow up the hardest thing that you can do. Repeat.

 

Cheerfully misuse all the machines in the gym to keep your strength; tape a couple of hooks to your cast for lifting!

 

David

[fatswaller]

Hi snowbryd

Sorry to read about your accident and hope you recover soon.Fortunately your legs are still in working order.

Time to start hiking and conquering summits.Mt Si,Granite

Mt,Mt Snoqualmie,McClellan Butte,Mt Baker,etc.Have you

conquered Sahale yet?

[EWolfe]

Slacklining between, say, Monkey Face and the Springboard, without a tether, will probably do well to keep your 'lead head' developing. Unless you die.

 

Brilliant advice, CrackHd.

[dryad]

Rock season is basically over anyway so don't fret. Just think how bad it would have sucked if this happened in June!

Whatever you do, do your damndest to not reinjure it - hence I would recommend against skiing in case you wipe out and hurt it again. If you push yourself too hard you'll be gimpy much longer. In the meantime, there are plenty of other things you can do to keep in shape and get outside like hiking and snowshoeing.

[corvallisclimb]

my first lead i had a hold break off on some sandstone took about a 15 footer onto a slab and caused a spiral fracture on my right hand. thought i disloacated it and tryed to set it before being lowerd off, bad idea the finger made disgusting sound. i had to do more simul raps and then didnt see a doctor or get an x ray until 12days later, then still diddnt see an american doctor till 24 days after the fact. but i did manage to climb the route again with broken finger ... since then ive taken a few falls but luckly never bumped my finger, i just hope i dont wind up with 9 fingers sometime soon

[Kelamuku]

SnowByrd,

Sorry to hear about your hand, I had shoulder surgery back in March and then again in June, so I can totally relate to your inquiry. My advice for what its worth, is find something that keeps you connected to what your passion is. I found this board, and while I don't live in the PNW and am not by any means a super climber(surfing is my true passion, but no ocean in Colorado) I found myself missing the community and the activity of climbing(both mentally and physically).

 

Secondly I found other physical activities that didn't involve my upperbody. Balance excercises, cycling(staionary), speed walking(running and falling would have been bad) and of course spending as much time in rehab and P/T as possible.

 

Still cannot climb very much yet and cannot lead anything but I am back at the gym's(its better than nothing) and around those who share similuar interest.

 

Finally to end my thought, just remember that if climbing is something you enjoy, it will be there when you heal and returning too soon will ultimatly delay your return.

 

Take care and rest easy,

Aloha...

[Dr_Crash]

Skiing is pretty safe. In 30 years of skiing I had only 2 accidents, 26 years apart.

 

drC

[ken4ord]

Climbing is always going to be there. So do other things while you got the chance. It blows that your injured, but make the best of it. There is more to life than climbing, not much more, but there is still other things to do. In the past I used the down time to read, check out music, smoke tons of dope, lift, ride my bikes, cook good food, hang with non climber friends that I would normally not see that often, go to movies, sleep in, go 4 wheeling, look for unclimbed cliff, hike, all things that go by the way side when I am climbing. Hell we live in a great city for stuff to do, go out and do it. Those are all the things that I have done when I blew out my knee, when I blew out my finger, and more recently when I sprained my foot and wrist this summer.