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Winter alpine routes


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Aside from the usual suspects: Tooth, Chair Peak, Index, TC on Dragontail and the other stuff in the "Selcted Climbs" books, does anybody have any favorite alpine winter routes.

I've been thinking that the west ridge of Stuart might be fun if the avy conditions on the approach (an omnipresent concern in the winter) were minimal. Any thoughts?

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Up in Canada, eh:


(All not too hard)


West Ridge of Rexford

South Ridge of Welch

East Ridge of Joffre


Although these are all ridge climbs, there is still some avalanche danger on the approaches, especially Welch. Just don`t go winter climbing after big dumps or when it`s really warm (since you`ll be postholing anyways!)

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Big 4 - nw ridge or other hardman descent routes. Lots of other peaks in the mtn loop highway as well. Delcampo, hall, ect.


Prussik west ridge if we had a little warm spell to make it nice n toasty


Sauk for an easy day climb


pryamid, Bunyon stump, and pinnacle seem reasonable access


tattosh range


shuksan north face, white salmon glacier. there si big potential for mixed crazy lines between the hanging glacier and white salmon.


Dallas Klokke had a winter alpne route guidebook out but may be out of print. These are small peaks that wouldn't see any action in the summer. But in the winter, they are very nice. If you can't find it, call dallas as he is very helpfull and may have a copy around.

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