Fossil beta, Mr. Off-White

[sgm]

What months can I drive all the way to the crag? I made the hike in two different directions (as found in Yoder's guide) and found the quality of climbing barely worth the hike (at least for my belayer, anyway).

 

Also, is the Tenino climbing area listed in Smoot's book? How long does it take (car and then hike) to get from Puyallup?

 

Thanks for any information.

 

P.S. I thought I was the only soul who puts themselves to sleep by mentally climbing my latest favorite.

[dtw]

Both the Weyerhauser gates had signs:

 

"Public access prohibited due to fire danger"

 

last weekend... not sure how or if it's enforced.

 

We decided to comply so as not to give them another reason to close the area completely.

[Off_White]

Sorry to say I'm woefully ill equipped to provide Fossil beta. I live fairly nearby, but I've never actually climbed at the place, having been somewhat put off by early descriptions. I tried to find it once, and wound up wandering around dank forests with moss coated boulders and knee deep beer cans, like some misplaced party spot from the Columbia Gorge, but never saw the crags. I doubt if the roads will be opened up before mid October, and maybe not even then, I know they've had a lot of problems with garbage dumping. Grrrr. A mountain bike should make quick work of the approach if you've got one. Also, just because the gates are open its no guarantee you'll get out. We got locked in once in November on the road to the crag at the back end of Skookumchuck Reservoir and had quite a time of it getting them to come let us out.

 

BTW, that crag is no longer open, they re-started the quarry there and all of the routes are gone, and they're gnawing into the hill at a rapid rate.

 

With regards to climbing in Tenino, its only 5 minutes from the car to the crag, but its not in any guidebook and the cliff is on private property. PM me if you want access details.

[LUCKY]

Fossil is a walk or mtn bike only access area as far as the signs go Weyerheauser is a public access tax break property area so Weyerheauser trys to keep as many people out and keep there tax break so usualy they escort you out or ask you to leave, in extreme cases (4wheelers or dirt bikes tearing up the hillside or wood thiefs they call the sheriff )no one I know has ever got a trespassing ticket and I have worked for Weyerhesuser in the past and climbed at Fossil more than most anyone (20 minutes from the house or I probably would not climb there)For the beginner or some one climbing in the 5.5 to low 11's it can be real fun, for the hardman it's a choss pile. Please respect the signs don't drive past gates keep a low profile ( act like a hiker or mtn biker that visit the area for the view of Rainer) access is fragil I don't know if there would be enought support if Weyerhaeuser denied access.

Access is closed till we have a rain or hunting season. Approach: at the 1000 road gate#202 park here walk or mtn bike past gate at 1.7 mile turn right on 1190 road gate has Fossil written on it, go uphill only on main logging road 1 mile till dead end and view of Rainer do not think the big wall on right is Fossil. Fossil is the high point of the area. the area has many top ropes and easy climbs great place to learn the ropes without the seasoned climbers looking down ther nose at you,The view of Rainer is killer Have Fun

 

[ 08-29-2002, 07:29 AM: Message edited by: LUCKY ]

[nervedoc]

alright I'll bite.....is there any way for us to know when we can access this area. I've driven all the way there twice, and not been able to get in. I would like to check it out, it is fairly close.

[richard_noggin]

The locals usually access the area covert anytime, on sat or especially on Sun is the best and they keep there climbing gear stashed and if a Weyerhaeuser gate guard questions them they just act like one of the religious hikers that visit the area. When I go, I go with a local it makes for a much better trip ,I have only been there a couple of times it was killer and the view of Rainer was almost as good as High Rock.

[Jens]

It was sad to hear that the Skookumchuck routes are gone. I haven't climbed there for many years. Kevin Busselmeier first took me out there when I was a teenager. Good memories. I guess Fred Beckey even did some climbing out their in the days of yore?

 

Fossil has something for everybody. Even some unreported nailups.

And Lucky, I disagree with you on the assessment of fossil. I would say that it is just the opposite. It is a choss pile for routes in the 5.5-5.11 range but in the 5.12-5.14 range the possibililtes will bring this area back into the front burner of PNW climbing probably in about 10-15 years. I guess the point is currently dead because the best routes in the 5.12-5.13 range have had the bolts removed.

I may never get back south to fossil, nor do I really care about the area, but some of the obscure cliffs located way back in the deep, dark woods will offer challenges for the next generations of pullers. Thats because the place has tons of tiny features like smith, but is often much steeper. Many of us (myself included) have abandoned old lines we have bolted.

We have not heard the last from fossil.....mark my words.

Enough spray from me.

[LUCKY]

Jens you are right, Old growth forest wonderland and some of the best sport climbing in the NW are locked up with DNR politics. I took a hike down that vally and it blew my mind, what a waste. Wish I could have enjoyed it before it was locked up.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I have climbed at fossil more than twice.

 

In my recollection it was the ONLY place to get a sport climb in that was close to Tacoma back then.

 

I have not been there in many moons. I climb 5.8 max and think that the only climbs worth doing are to the right of the Boyal Bobbins Bunny Climb area.

 

After much exploration of many more WA areas I think that the area is not a major destination.

 

Furthermore I think the anchors were often sub-standard cold shuts that I was ignorant enough to believe might be sufficient for a good fall. It may be true that they could hold a fall but I dont think I trust them anchors at all nowadays after more exp. and knowledge.

 

There were indeed difficult routes there that I could not do and will not do. Including holds that fall apart and or crumbes away on ascent.

 

My final analysis was that fossil rock was not for me in the end after learning about safety and other good areas. However if you dont mind the rock quality then you might have a fantastic time. There is some hard shit there and nobody can deny that.

 

I would prefer to climb elsewhere.

[Jens]

I don't know why I'm defending fossil because I don't really care about it or may not go down there ever anymore really.

 

But I must point out,

The areas that people climb at now are not very good in comparison to the DNR restricted stuff.

 

And I got lost once back in the sticks out there and found some awesome should i say it bouldering--- shhhh. And no it wasn't where anybody else goes.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Clip the bolts and think you are free soloing

[RayBonbon]

Chossil Rock =

 

[ 08-29-2002, 08:38 PM: Message edited by: RayBonbon ]