IMAM Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 Has any one been up this route in the past week or 2? How are the late season conditions; bridge crossings, etc? Is RMI still taking groups up? What do you think about camping at Ingraham Flats or Anvil Rock to "escape" the crowds? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 It's impossible to escape crowds on that route or approach. One doesn't do the DC to have a "wilderness experience". the flats are usually a little less crowded than Camp Smear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 Was on the route on Sunday, August 18. The route is in fine shape, crevasse crossings easy. Many, many people on the route, including RMI folks. If I were to do this as other than a day trip, I would camp at Emmons Flats although it was still relatively crowded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: If I were to do this as other than a day trip, I would camp at Emmons Flats although it was still relatively crowded. That would make for a truly creative approach to the DC route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 I was up there this weekend and it was quite crowded. Here is my TR: Friday August 16 Headed up to Camp Muir Many of the folks we talked to on their way down mentioned turning around high up on the mountain due to bad snowbridges and crevasses. I did not like this news, as this was to be my wife's 3rd attempt on the mountain and I wanted success. We set up camp under gorgeous skies and no wind. Saturday August 17 John was to arrive today and bring the rope for our summit bid on Sunday morning. It was windy the entire day, even though there we clear skies, the wind made it unbearable to stand outside as it was quite cold. John arrived around 3pm and set up camp next to us. We got our plan for the summit, and got great beta from Glenn at the ranger station. He mentioned some junctions to watch for, and where to go on the cleaver, and where to move fast and such. Sunday August 18 (well, really saturday at 1130pm) The classic Suunto watch alarm whispered softly "beep beep" - the thing never works, but somehow we all wake up. We leave camp at 1230am and head out on the Cowlitz Glacier. There were about 2-3 small crevasse crossings which were small. We made our way up Cathedral Gap and continued on to Ingraham Flats. We meet some friends that had camped there but they were behind schedule so we continue on towards the dreaded "cleaver". We try to haul ass through the Ingraham Icefall, but the party in front of us is lost and cant get on the cleaver, and tension is high - we yell, but I don't think that helped. We finally get on the cleaver and make our way up what trail we think there is. RMI is 1.5 hours behind us, and we are almost in the pole position. After about on hour of scree hell we finally reach the top of the cleaver at 12,000 feet. It is real windy, and cold - we fuel up and continue on. We hit the junction and continue straight up. It's only 430 so we still have got an hour before full sunrise. We loose our position while on our break and get stuck in a bottleneck. The trail is ridiculously marked as it is a 6 inch to 2 foot trench at times, switchbacking back and forth. This continues on and on, and we have to wait for all the teams in front of us, and few let us pass by. After tedious switchbacks, we finally arrive at the summit at 7am. The wind has subsided. We turn around and begin the descent, we are the first ones to head down, and we have to cut switchbacks on crappy rime ice so that we can access the trail in between groups heading up. We finally get down to the cleaver and begin the descent. The other members decide that we descend another way than we came up, not too happy with this we head down the chossy pile of junk. We get lost several times, but find wands all over the place. It is real hot now so we were all a little cranky. We finally get off the cleaver and back on the Ingraham Glacier. We get back to Ingraham Flats and collapse for a few minutes. We head towards Cathedral Gap and traverse the Cowlitz back top Muir. We arrive at our camp at exactly 12 noon, 11.5 hours muir to muir. We rest for about 1/2 hour and pack up our camp and head down from Muir, getting a few glissades here and there we get back to the cars around 4pm. One small crevasse on the Muir snowfield at 9200 feet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by scot'teryx: I was up there this weekend and it was quite crowded. Here is my TR: Friday August 16 Headed up to Camp Muir Many of the folks we talked to on their way down mentioned turning around high up on the mountain due to bad snowbridges and crevasses. I did not like this news, as this was to be my wife's 3rd attempt on the mountain and I wanted success. We set up camp under gorgeous skies and no wind. Saturday August 17 John was to arrive today and bring the rope for our summit bid on Sunday morning. It was windy the entire day, even though there we clear skies, the wind made it unbearable to stand outside as it was quite cold. John arrived around 3pm and set up camp next to us. We got our plan for the summit, and got great beta from Glenn at the ranger station. He mentioned some junctions to watch for, and where to go on the cleaver, and where to move fast and such. Sunday August 18 (well, really saturday at 1130pm) The classic Suunto watch alarm whispered softly "beep beep" - the thing never works, but somehow we all wake up. We leave camp at 1230am and head out on the Cowlitz Glacier. There were about 2-3 small crevasse crossings which were small. We made our way up Cathedral Gap and continued on to Ingraham Flats. We meet some friends that had camped there but they were behind schedule so we continue on towards the dreaded "cleaver". We try to haul ass through the Ingraham Icefall, but the party in front of us is lost and cant get on the cleaver, and tension is high - we yell, but I don't think that helped. We finally get on the cleaver and make our way up what trail we think there is. RMI is 1.5 hours behind us, and we are almost in the pole position. After about on hour of scree hell we finally reach the top of the cleaver at 12,000 feet. It is real windy, and cold - we fuel up and continue on. We hit the junction and continue straight up. It's only 430 so we still have got an hour before full sunrise. We loose our position while on our break and get stuck in a bottleneck. The trail is ridiculously marked as it is a 6 inch to 2 foot trench at times, switchbacking back and forth. This continues on and on, and we have to wait for all the teams in front of us, and few let us pass by. After tedious switchbacks, we finally arrive at the summit at 7am. The wind has subsided. We turn around and begin the descent, we are the first ones to head down, and we have to cut switchbacks on crappy rime ice so that we can access the trail in between groups heading up. We finally get down to the cleaver and begin the descent. The other members decide that we descend another way than we came up, not too happy with this we head down the chossy pile of junk. We get lost several times, but find wands all over the place. It is real hot now so we were all a little cranky. We finally get off the cleaver and back on the Ingraham Glacier. We get back to Ingraham Flats and collapse for a few minutes. We head towards Cathedral Gap and traverse the Cowlitz back top Muir. We arrive at our camp at exactly 12 noon, 11.5 hours muir to muir. We rest for about 1/2 hour and pack up our camp and head down from Muir, getting a few glissades here and there we get back to the cars around 4pm. One small crevasse on the Muir snowfield at 9200 feet What, no video? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 Of course there is video! http://www.nwog.org/images/dc081802/summit.mpg & http://www.nwog.org/images/dc081802/sdug.mpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 and the cleaver..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 see any cougars up there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 Cougars! There were tons!!!! Watch your back on the route! ----------------------------- Dude, Your the Hand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 CRIKEY That cat's no pussy, mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 They guard Cathedral Gap this time of year. What they really want are Camalots 2-3.5, since it is a misconception that cams work on cougars the same way they work on bears. I have found out that express ice screws work the best on cougars, you figure out the best way to use them though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IMAM Posted August 21, 2002 Author Share Posted August 21, 2002 Great TR Scot'teryx. I was a little hesitant about going up Rainier this time of year but it doesn't sound like a problem as long as you get an early start. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted August 21, 2002 Share Posted August 21, 2002 The Emmons is in good shape also, although you have to travers very far left to get around the upper bergschrund. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steigerman Posted August 21, 2002 Share Posted August 21, 2002 Scot'teryx, Congrats on your wifes first summit. Like they say third times a charm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
To_The_Top Posted August 21, 2002 Share Posted August 21, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: The Emmons is in good shape also, although you have to travers very far left to get around the upper bergschrund. I was up there last weekend and that was the better alternative then, the right was a bit of a pain. The route was good then both ways. Congrats on getting past the Cougars, I hear they are in town this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILuvAliens Posted August 21, 2002 Share Posted August 21, 2002 Was on the DC the the morning of the 11th. At some spots you couldn't even jump off the trail/trench. That morning there was a fork just at the top of the cleaver. We went left up, and right down. Either way you had to walk a bridge. Guides were going right. Ask the Ranger maybe. Someone fell through going left later on that morning, but I think it was a people error. Buddy and his crew had on flannels and sweat pants, no joke! Don't forget your shovel so you can sleep horizontal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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