Stuart NR approach?

[woland]

Hello,

people who diff full North Ridge of Stuart few years ago told me that it is possible to walk under the glacier and avoid snow (thus no crampoons and ice axe). Anyone knows if this is true this year?

[DPS]

Yes, it is true.

[John Frieh]

However the snow isn't that steep so you could slide (perhaps slide isn't the best word usage there) by with a nut tool or sharp rock...

[Alasdair]

However the snow isn't that steep so you could slide (perhaps slide isn't the best word usage there) by with a nut tool or sharp rock...

but before you decide to do that go read a couple years of ANAM and decide for yourself weather that is really something you want to do.

[John Frieh]

Taken in early July of this year (sorry about quality):

 

Edited August 27, 2004 by NOLSe

[woland]

Thanks for the photo. The picture is taken from the ridge, pointing west, right?

[woland]

So how much sliding is required to get to the lower north ridge (East Side variation)?

[slothrop]

About this much (late July last year):

 

 

Er, nevermind. This is the approach for the partial North Ridge. Duh.

Edited August 27, 2004 by slothrop

[fleblebleb]

None - there is no glacier in the basin.

 

You only need to cross the Stuart glacier if you're going to the upper ridge.

 

My unsolicited $.02 - take crampons if you're wearing soft-soled sneakers...

[chucK]

We did it in July last year. As that picture shows, it's fairly steep snow up high, then there's a huge flat runout at the bottom. We didn't have crampons, but did have axes. In hindsight we didn't need the axes (the snow was very soft), but they were nice to have (useful on CC descent too), and I wouldn't count on the snow being that soft again.

 

Looks like you can probably downclimb some ugly rock to avoid the steepest part?

 

Why are you doing the East variation? Is it your goal to bypass the only interesting pitches? I'll bet you change your mind when you see it.

[John Frieh]

Thanks for the photo. The picture is taken from the ridge, pointing west, right?

 

From glacier but yes facing west.

 

I would say the bottom line is this: everyone has a different comfort level on snow which is based on how much physical time you have had on snow. I would venture a guess that your comfort level on snow with sneakers on isn't at a point that will allow you to sneak by without an ice ax. Take an ice ax. Look at the forecast and if the freezing level is lower than the pass elevation take crampons (this is very rare in the cascades this time of year). Personally I would say belay the first down: have him her use only a nut tool for balance and if they do slip the belay will prevent a run away. At end of ropelength have second come down with the one ice axe you brought. If they slip they can self arrest with the ax. Repeat until on flat portion of glacier.

 

Finally on weekends when it rains (like last weekend) go practice running around on steep snow with sneakers and a nut tool. Become comfortable in sneakers.

[Off_White]

Well, as only a few posters picked up on, the inquiry is about the COMPLETE north ridge, and an axe or crampons won't be needed to get on the ridge. I think the crux of the biscuit is which descent is intended, and how does that slope after the false summit look these days? The two times I've descended, once it was dry as a bone and the other it was 2" of slush over hard snow with a bad runout. Also, if you're going down Sherpa Couloir this time of year, bring both.

[chucK]

Off, If he/she is planning on approaching from Teanaway, then there usually is a snowfield on the North side of Goat Pass. I think that's what Woland is asking about, "Is there still any snow there; and if so, do I need dee-vices?"

 

As for the snow in the Cascadian: if there is any, it can be avoided. One can hike down the buttress that comes off the false summit and separates the Cascadian from Ulrich's. Then, once below the snowfield, one can downclimb or rap into the Cascadian.

[woland]

Thanks to everyone for your responses,

will attempt the FULL ridge in sneakers, and even if we don't make it all the way to the start of the ridge I am sure it will be a great hike

[larrythellama]

If one is to do the entire nort ridge why wouldnt they come in from mtneers crk? much faster and then you dont have to deal with the snow. you would need to set up a car shuttle to the tenaway or you could descend the nw(?) face/buttress...ask crackbolter he did it that way.