eternalX Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 Where would you go? Was planning on doing Challenger but don't have enough time to get to Luna and Fury so does it make sense to go that far in? Looking for glacier climbing and light rock, if possible. I'd love to hear suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrible_ted Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 I'd still go in and try Challenger. If nothing else you'll have some firsthand knowledge of a N. Picket route that will serve you well on a more ambitious future trip. Â Redoubt and Spickard makes a nice 4 day trip, although mostly slogging. How about Dorado needle or the Dome traverse? The west arete of Eldorado? That's a bit tougher (5.8, grade IV). The NE butt. of Goode? Â -t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 I would agree with the challenger thing. It is a great peak in a great area. As far as goode goes, I would agree that that is a good objective, but if you are thinking on going there soon, I would caution you that getting on to the glacier could be a major obstical unless you are comfortable climbing vertical ice seracs that look like they are about to collapse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 (edited) A few options (in no particular order): Â 1) Early Morning Spire and friends (Dorado, etc) 2) Ptarmigan Traverse 3) Dome and friends (flat top, snow dome, overdrive, dyna flow, sinister, spire, etc) 4) Logan/Thunder Edited August 25, 2004 by NOLSe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 if its this weekend forecast is not looking great for a 4 day trip on the west side so head east, you might have to give up on a glacier to stay dry though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 If it were me, I'd head farther north, go do something like the Tantalus traverse or a couple routes in the Chehalis range. But then again, I've been spending more time with McLane's guidebook lately rather than Beckey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 Tantalus and Chehalis = rain, rain, rain this w/e. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eternalX Posted August 25, 2004 Author Share Posted August 25, 2004 i think we'll be okay until tuesday... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 Or you could go for the Cascade Pass area. I really want to do a big traverse there, think Eldo->Klawatti->Austera->Primus->Forbidden->Boston->Sahale->Buckner. But I want it on skis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 Tantalus and Chehalis = rain, rain, rain this w/e. Â I don't doubt it, I was just being hypothetical about what I would like to do with 4 days on my hands, but not necessarily the next 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 I didnt think they let you across the Border Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 No, I never got caught. It's my friends who have problems... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 Oh these would be the same friends who have all the other problems too? Â "Yeah doc, I'm calling for my friend, see, cause he's too embarasssed to ask a doctor directly about his a) premature ejaculation problem b) impotence c) sheep lust or d) all of the above" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 They must be the ones with the black market peanut butter sandwiches. I recommend trying to sneak across near Hozomeen if you want to smuggle your wares across the border. I have managed to get across at least 3 barrels of Jif this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 Oh great, now EVERYONE knows about it Iain  Next you'll tell them about the secret tunnel that runs from Glacier to Cultus Lake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 2) Ptarmigan Traverse  Great choice for a lightweight 4 days! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timcb Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 2) Ptarmigan Traverse  Great choice for a lightweight 4 days!  Even now? won't it be all melted out, with icy glaciers and long scree traverses? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 Â Even now? won't it be all melted out, with icy glaciers and long scree traverses? Â Yes. Still a pleasant doable trip though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted August 30, 2004 Share Posted August 30, 2004 Tim: Just to clarify are you asking if this is still a good idea because the conditions (icy, scree) would: Â 1) make the traverse unenjoyable or 2) would take more than 4 days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timcb Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 Tim: Just to clarify are you asking if this is still a good idea because the conditions (icy, scree) would:  1) make the traverse unenjoyable or 2) would take more than 4 days  (1) Though not really unenjoyable, just less enjoyable. I'm picturing almost entire days spent sliding around on scree fields, then stepping carefully over hard, blue ice glaciers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 Its just different. I've done it on primarily snow to travel, and also over labor day weekend last year when it was less snow. The scree can be tedious in a few spots (principally between Spider Formidible col and Yang Yang lakes) but does not detract from where you are. Â Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 Tim: Â Fair enough... to each their own however I would argue that the scree on the traverse is much more solid than the scree on the mountains that are generally climbed as a part of the traverse... so if you can't stand the travel portion definitely don't bother with the climbing portion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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