4 Days in the North Cascades?

[eternalX]

Where would you go? Was planning on doing Challenger but don't have enough time to get to Luna and Fury so does it make sense to go that far in? Looking for glacier climbing and light rock, if possible. I'd love to hear suggestions.

[terrible_ted]

I'd still go in and try Challenger. If nothing else you'll have some firsthand knowledge of a N. Picket route that will serve you well on a more ambitious future trip.

 

Redoubt and Spickard makes a nice 4 day trip, although mostly slogging. How about Dorado needle or the Dome traverse? The west arete of Eldorado? That's a bit tougher (5.8, grade IV). The NE butt. of Goode?

 

-t

[Alasdair]

I would agree with the challenger thing. It is a great peak in a great area. As far as goode goes, I would agree that that is a good objective, but if you are thinking on going there soon, I would caution you that getting on to the glacier could be a major obstical unless you are comfortable climbing vertical ice seracs that look like they are about to collapse.

[John Frieh]

A few options (in no particular order):

 

1) Early Morning Spire and friends (Dorado, etc)

2) Ptarmigan Traverse

3) Dome and friends (flat top, snow dome, overdrive, dyna flow, sinister, spire, etc)

4) Logan/Thunder

Edited August 25, 2004 by NOLSe

[Dru]

if its this weekend forecast is not looking great for a 4 day trip on the west side so head east, you might have to give up on a glacier to stay dry though.

[Off_White]

If it were me, I'd head farther north, go do something like the Tantalus traverse or a couple routes in the Chehalis range. But then again, I've been spending more time with McLane's guidebook lately rather than Beckey.

[Dru]

Tantalus and Chehalis = rain, rain, rain this w/e.

[eternalX]

i think we'll be okay until tuesday...

[cracked]

Or you could go for the Cascade Pass area. I really want to do a big traverse there, think Eldo->Klawatti->Austera->Primus->Forbidden->Boston->Sahale->Buckner. But I want it on skis.

[Off_White]

Tantalus and Chehalis = rain, rain, rain this w/e.

 

I don't doubt it, I was just being hypothetical about what I would like to do with 4 days on my hands, but not necessarily the next 4.

[Dru]

I didnt think they let you across the Border

[Off_White]

No, I never got caught. It's my friends who have problems...

[Dru]

Oh these would be the same friends who have all the other problems too?

 

"Yeah doc, I'm calling for my friend, see, cause he's too embarasssed to ask a doctor directly about his a) premature ejaculation problem b) impotence c) sheep lust or d) all of the above"

[iain]

They must be the ones with the black market peanut butter sandwiches. I recommend trying to sneak across near Hozomeen if you want to smuggle your wares across the border. I have managed to get across at least 3 barrels of Jif this way.

[Dru]

Oh great, now EVERYONE knows about it Iain

 

Next you'll tell them about the secret tunnel that runs from Glacier to Cultus Lake.

[Alex]

2) Ptarmigan Traverse

 

Great choice for a lightweight 4 days!

[Timcb]

2) Ptarmigan Traverse

 

Great choice for a lightweight 4 days!

 

Even now? won't it be all melted out, with icy glaciers and long scree traverses?

[philfort]

 

Even now? won't it be all melted out, with icy glaciers and long scree traverses?

 

Yes. Still a pleasant doable trip though.

[John Frieh]

Tim:

Just to clarify are you asking if this is still a good idea because the conditions (icy, scree) would:

 

1) make the traverse unenjoyable or

2) would take more than 4 days

[Timcb]

Tim:

Just to clarify are you asking if this is still a good idea because the conditions (icy, scree) would:

 

1) make the traverse unenjoyable or

2) would take more than 4 days

 

(1) Though not really unenjoyable, just less enjoyable. I'm picturing almost entire days spent sliding around on scree fields, then stepping carefully over hard, blue ice glaciers

[Alex]

Its just different. I've done it on primarily snow to travel, and also over labor day weekend last year when it was less snow. The scree can be tedious in a few spots (principally between Spider Formidible col and Yang Yang lakes) but does not detract from where you are.

 

Alex

[John Frieh]

Tim:

 

Fair enough... to each their own however I would argue that the scree on the traverse is much more solid than the scree on the mountains that are generally climbed as a part of the traverse... so if you can't stand the travel portion definitely don't bother with the climbing portion.