Fisher Chimneys

[eternalX]

Is this a hard route? thinking about doing it on saturday with some people that aren't super experienced on the ropes. Didn't look crazy from the maps but some of the pics and remarks here make me think that it isn't something for the novice. Thoughts?

[Alpinfox]

Will likely be icy in spots. Folks should be sure-footed and have ice-axe skills and crevasse-rescue knowledge.

 

Sulphide glacier would be a better choice for newbies.

[eternalX]

Just trying to stay away from the extra elevation change ;>

 

I think we'll give it a crack.

[DPS]

Fisher Chimneys is not a difficult route, but requires a certain level of confidence in rock and ice climbing as well as good route finding skills. I did not find Fisher's Chimmeys to be significantly easier than the North Face.

 

I have seen more than one party belay pitches in the chimneys and on Winnie's slide and the ramp gaining the Curtis glacier. A inexperienced climber may also wish for a belay on the summit pyramid.

 

If your friends have never rock climbed or done any kind of ice axe work, the Sulphide may make more sense. The Sulphide is more scenic, has easier route finding and still offers the rock climbing on the summit pyramid.

 

The Fisher Chimneys route may start at a higher altitude, but you promptly drop 1,000 feet which has to be regained at Lake Ann and also regained when you are most tired, right before the car. The Sulphide is much less strenuous.

Edited August 20, 2004 by danielpatricksmith

[turn_one]

pay attention the your route finding on the lower access gulley (that gains the scree field) and once across the scree field, choose the correct chimney as there are several options here, some more difficult than the intended one.

[iain]

Don't a lot of people use fisher chimneys as a descent route from the north face? It doesn't sound like the best choice based on the above. Sorry, I'm not too familar with Shuksan.

[Ireneo_Funes]

When we tried this route in June, we got turned around by soft snow in the chimneys. Routefinding through the chimneys was a challenge, like other folks have said. It didn't seem like a beginner route to me.

[Juan]

My wife Kirsten, nephew Terry Ahern, friend David Fox and I did this last weekend. It was my third time down it and second time up it.

 

This one is not overly hard in any one spot, but is a full mountaineering 101 package. Especially now. Winnie's Slide is solid alpine ice for just over two 30m rope lengths. We had no screws and the ice was too hard for pickets so we just ran it out and found a little moat half way up on the right from which to belay. The upper Curtis is accessed higher on the left than normal, via a rock scramble. Look for crampon marks on the rocks. We didn't rope the chimneys themselves, but that is a judgment call. Same with the summit pyramid.

 

Based on the description of your crew, I would do Sulfide. If nothing else, Winnie's Slide could present an obstacle. To get down it we rapped from a bollard that was there but that we improved, and from a mystery rope hanging out of the ice half way down. It passed the bounce test, but who knows what it's attached to.

 

If you need more info, e-mail me at jsharp@windermere.com.

 

Have fun!

 

John Sharp

Edited August 20, 2004 by Juan

[eternalX]

I shouldn't have said beginners. We've all done sahale, adams, helens, and a ton of backcountry boarding. There's really only one quasi-newbie.

 

so someone said sulphide was less strenuous and more scenic? From the maps this didn't appear to be the case.

[DPS]

From the Sulphide you get outrageous views of the Pickets. Really remarkable. Having done both Fisher Chimneys and the Sulphide I can say the Sulphide is in every way less strenuous, and that my friend, is a money back guarantee.

[Juan]

Dan learned about this money back guarantee thing when he was in sales with Men's Warehouse. The guy could really move product.

 

Har, har. Sorry Dan.

 

I would say that if you do Shuksan by any route, leave camp early. There were quite a few groups on both Fisher Chimneys and the Sulfide last weekend, and that summit pyramid is not the best spot for a traffic jam (though there are many ways up and down it -- right, left, and center). If you can outrun the bigger groups, you'll be glad you started early.

 

Have a great trip. I believe there is a new summit register placed by a group that was behind us last weekend, so plenty of room for you to write.

 

Sharp

[cluck]

Not to pile on or anything, but think you are wise to listen to folks sending you to Sulphide Route. It is fun, you will like it and are unlikely to have an epic. No offense but sahale, adams, helens via dog routes = newbie. Solid alpine ice on Winnie's Slide does not sound like the place for the "novice" as you describe members of your party.

[Dru]

Don't a lot of people use fisher chimneys as a descent route from the north face? It doesn't sound like the best choice based on the above. Sorry, I'm not too familar with Shuksan.

 

if i did it again ifd just keep going down the white salmon, going down the chimneys adds slow scrambling and a longer walk back to the car. the only advantage to doing this over going back down the north face itself is that you dont have top re-circumnavigate the summit pyramid to start the descent

[JoshK]

I shouldn't have said beginners. We've all done sahale, adams, helens, and a ton of backcountry boarding. There's really only one quasi-newbie.

 

so someone said sulphide was less strenuous and more scenic? From the maps this didn't appear to be the case.

 

Not to be a dick, but the listed climbs would definiltely be beginner. They are workouts and fun, but certainly not technically challenging or committing.

[IceIceBaby]

We did the route late July. it is physically demanding route but not really technical with wonderful exposure in the chimneys (gullies).The difficulties were finding the entrance chimney, finding the trail going right from it, finding the base of the second chimney (right by the HUGE boulder), the two section of the exposed 4th class afterwards, Winnie's Slide and Hell highway. It will take time but it is beautiful route

One side note if you not experienced with this type of terrain I will recommend camping in Lake Anne and not in the middle or top of the chimneys b/c the decent will be hard with all the equipment on your back especially at the end of your trip when you exhausted

[eternalX]

I shouldn't have said beginners. We've all done sahale, adams, helens, and a ton of backcountry boarding. There's really only one quasi-newbie.

 

so someone said sulphide was less strenuous and more scenic? From the maps this didn't appear to be the case.

 

Not to be a dick, but the listed climbs would definiltely be beginner. They are workouts and fun, but certainly not technically challenging or committing.

 

Are you sure?

[eternalX]

Just as a follow-up, we did this route on Saturday. Got a late start from the trailhead and turned around at the top or of Winnie's Slide. Started raining soon after. TR to come.