[TR] Prusik Peak- West Ridge - Day Trip 7/10/2004

[zoroastr]

Climb: Prusik Peak-West Ridge - Day Trip

 

Date of Climb: 7/10/2004

 

Trip Report:

Yesterday, Erick Johnson and I naively agreed that Prusik would be a good candidate for our typical hit-'n'-run day-climbing style. I'd done the Enchantments loop three times before as day hikes, but the negative effects on the legs of 27 miles of rocky trail had long since faded from my short-term memory, and the idea of climbing Prusik in a single car-to-car push sounded reasonable. A day later, I find myself shopping on-line for a nice pair of crutches. Seriously, the climb went well, but if there's any justice in the universe, I'm sure that a special place in hell has been reserved for the author of the guidebook who claimed that the approach from the Snow Creek side is only 10 miles long. I could be wrong, but by the time we reached the base of the route, my legs told me I'd covered at least 13 miles.

But enough nitpicking. The West Ridge is a wonderful route, offering a really good variety of mid-fifth class moves in a setting of unmatched beauty. Lots of stemming, lie-backs, mantles, and a short but exposed 5.7 slab. The four or five-pitch climb ends at a really nice, roomy summit with views to die for and a bomber, bolted rappel station that starts a series of four quick raps to easy ground and a short hike back to the start of the route.

Although our experience was hampered by deteriorating weather, including some light but unsettling snow flurries during descent, a really hideous rope snag that required a sketchy up-climb retrieval [kudos to E.J.], and, of course, the exhausting 25-mile forced march, I found Prusik to be well worth the effort.

Stats:

Roundtrip: 25 miles. Departure from Snow Creek trailhead @ 09:30. Returned 13 hours later, miraculously refraining from breaking out Erick's headlamp.

--will post a pic or two when they come back.

 

Gear Notes:

Day packs, small rack of nuts and cams to 2".

 

Approach Notes:

Trail clear, dry, and interminable!

Edited July 12, 2004 by zoroastr

[Dru]

13 hours car to car is pretty good

[pope]

I did the W. Ridge for the first time on Thursday. Pretty nice climbing, and a helluva camp Wednesday night at Aasgard pass (my tent fly began to rip in the subfreezing winds). A pair simul-climbing behind us on the ridge included my partner's inspiration and alpine school instructor, Tim Wilson, and his equally entertaining partner, Armand. Following a reunion/summit celebration, I had to hike back to the pass, break camp, and hump the biggest pack I've carried in ten years down past Cochuck Lake and out (4 hours, finishing in failing light). I'm still hurting from that adventure.

[Szyjakowski]

i heard tim asked if it was okay to stand on one of your heads to climb thru....

 

tim and arman rock!

 

BTW: is this in the correct forum??

Edited July 12, 2004 by Szyjakowski

[pope]

i heard tim asked if it was okay to stand on one of your heads to climb thru....

 

tim and arman rock!

 

BTW: is this in the correct forum??

 

Actually, we were already on top. There was a gentleman patiently leading his two children up the ridge, and I think Tim asked him whether he could use the "Joe Brown hold".

[sketchfest]

For some insane reason, B-rock and I did the same thing only we came in via Asgard Pass. This was my first time in the area and was completely blown away by the beauty of it, I wish that we had more than just the weekend to check out some of the other peaks. The West Ridge is definitely a classic and the beer never tasted so sweet when we got back to the car.

[cfire]

We did the South Face of Prusik yesterday 7/11, car to car. 16 hrs round trip for our party of 3. In and out via Asgard. What a hump! Now that I've done it, no need to repeat it...

 

Had whole mountain to ourselves and the weather was perfect. Isn't that 5.9 offwith worth a couple of miles added to the total? I felt like I went 10 rounds with Tyson after that.

[pope]

We did the S. Face via Snow Lake in roughly the same time. Which approach is faster? Anybody know for sure?

[cfire]

We debated, then figured if it's all the same we might as well go for the better scenery via Asgard. You do lose valuable elevation after Asgard though. Nice hike throught the lakes.

[b-rock]

Having done it both ways, I'd say I prefer Snow Lakes. It's only a little longer but has about the same overall elevation gain. Going back down Asgard Pass afterwards was punishing to say the least.

[To_The_Top]

Cfire,

I think I talked to you or some in your party.....

Sounded like you had a full day. Congrats

[pnut]

Wow...There are a lot of people into the pain/pleasure of day trips in the Enchantments. A friend and I did a 17.5hour car-to-car on the south face on saturday July 10. With all the grunting chimneys and off-width, the route reminded me of Castletown tower in southern Utah. We came in via Snow Lakes. I have never done the other approach and I don't know anything about it. I really liked the Snow Lakes hike. It's certainly long, but it's great to have such a great route that requires no bushwacking or loose scree on the approach or descent. But with all that said, I probably won't do it again any time soon.

[Szyjakowski]

faster up asgard and out snow lakes. prusik is about in the middle of the 20 +/- mile roundtrip hike.

[pnut]

BTW: Does anyone know any other cool 5.8-5.10 routes in the Prusik Peak area, preferrably ones with chimneys and offwidths?

[b-rock]

Hey pnut wazzat you on the summit Saturday with the X-wing / TIE Fighter battle ensuing on your helmet?

[Szyjakowski]

BTW: Does anyone know any other cool 5.8-5.10 routes in the Prusik Peak area, preferrably ones with chimneys and offwidths?

the other south face route is very similar to one you did, which ever that might have been.

 

boxtop is cool...high priest is better.

 

Really good route on the eastface of Professor;

called, "I think it's booty" lots of offwidth and chimney climbing and a few trees. 5.9-5.10 rack to 4".....direct line to summit on east face.

 

Also, I thought about the approach to prusik today...definitely faster to roundtrip via snowlakes...

asgard is so suck!

[pnut]

Damn straight I wear a helmet with a Xwing and Imperial Walker drawing....Did I talk to you at the top? And you are...

[b-rock]

Ya, we chatted. We're the ones who pulled that cam from your belay and rapped away Nice meetin' ya.

[sketchfest]

Hey pnut, nice to meet ya, sort of. b-rock and I woulda loved to have stayed and chatted to find out if your second had as bluddy ankles as you did, but we where glad to have started our raps before the masses engulfed the summit and began theirs.

 

Hey Timmy and Jon how about some helmet stickers "CC-gaper on board" I'd make it a hella lot easier to identify each other. Christ, we can at least have something better than the mounties and their duct tape and black felt pen name tags.

[Bug]

Dima and I were up there the same day. We were stuck behind Pnut and friend. They were moving OK but I was in a hurry to beat the clouds. We bailed right on SNafflehound ledges and got off route on a 5.10 stemming thing that turned out fun. Dima led that. The rest of our trip went well except for the divergence of styles. Still thinking about how to present the TR for that. Anyway, good meeting Peter and Ki up there. Hope to see you elsewhere.

[sketchfest]

Bug, do you or the person you were climbing with have an accent? If so, I think we heard you guy’s hollering at each other while we were on the summit. It sounded like neither of you could hear the other very well.

[Dima]

Yes I have an accent, but I still could say "on belay" and "belay off" without it

 

As to my style: it comes from inexperience. When you don't have experience, you try to do it the way you know best. You would not be in a hurry to do it differently (especially on a lead).

[pnut]

Yep...yall should have seen my friend Kai after climbing the Burger-Stanley in shorts and without tape. Pink knees, ankles, hands, white scratched calves, half of fingers with cuts, and bleeding everywhere. That said, he really enjoyed the route too.....

[Bug]

I posted some pics in the gallery. Send that one to your mom Pnut.

[Bug]

Focus and complete the task at hand. Cut time where it is easy and safe to do so. 1) Rack gear quickly. Maybe even try a new system. Those squeeze chimneys are always going to suck with gear hanging off every loop on your body.

2)Rack gear in a way that is simple and reproducable. Do it the same way every time. If both partners do it the same way, the second can sort as he climbs and just grab what little is left from the lead and boogie. Or switch racks quickly for whatever reason. 3) Quickly complete what part of the pitch is obvious to the next rest stance. The unobvious becomes easier to judge the closer you get.

4) Learn to pack quickly or the night before. The last guys to start often have to climb in the dark. 5)Choose foods that require no cooking. Add hot water and stir. Gulp it down and go. We all love home cooking but The last guys to start often have to climb in the dark. 6) Being slow by choice is selfish. Alpine climbing requires efficient teamwork. I would not climb with you again for that one reason alone. You are otherwise a nice guy and you lead the hardest pitch. I wish you luck in Peru. I hope it does not come down to luck but I fear it will. You are tackling a long route.

Peace.