chosskid2004 Posted July 8, 2004 Share Posted July 8, 2004 IF YOU HAD TO DO JUST ONE CLIMB...I'm looking for recommendations on a route that combines alpine/glacier travel and grade III+, 5.6-5.7 multi-pitch climbing in the Cascades. I have five days towards the end of August. Let me have it! (Your time and advice will be rewarded in the afterlife) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 8, 2004 Share Posted July 8, 2004 Post deleted by Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted July 8, 2004 Share Posted July 8, 2004 Run everybody! It's "Climbing" Magazine and they want to turn your favorite route into Disneyland for gumbies!! Â I'd like to say NE Ridge of Triumph, but I haven't done it yet... (snow, jumped the gun) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted July 8, 2004 Share Posted July 8, 2004 (edited) N. Ridge Stuart, W. Ridge Forbidden. Edited July 9, 2004 by willstrickland Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted July 8, 2004 Share Posted July 8, 2004 (edited) Could always fill your shorts with nice cold steaksauce pops and head to Tieton? Edited July 8, 2004 by selkirk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted July 8, 2004 Share Posted July 8, 2004 The Tooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted July 8, 2004 Share Posted July 8, 2004 If you have to do just one: the old classic N Ridge of Stu or NE Buttress (or whatever it is) on Goode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 8, 2004 Share Posted July 8, 2004 Hey ya'll, this is the climbers board, not spray. Assume the question is sincere. Tip of the hat to Specialed for providing some real suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted July 8, 2004 Share Posted July 8, 2004 Try N. Ridge Baker, as well. No rock on that one, but glacier travel and alpine ice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted July 8, 2004 Share Posted July 8, 2004 :whimper: I gave a suggestion... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted July 8, 2004 Share Posted July 8, 2004 I'll second the Std North Ridge of Stuart. It's worth french freeing the 5.9 and 5.8 Gendarme pitch if you can't quite free climb it, it is a much better finish then the variation. Â Second...would be Forbidden Peak, any route. Â You don't need 5 days to do either climb, but there are other good climbs in the area of both Mountains that would make for a good multiday adventure. Â Both are serious peaks and not to be underestimated...definately not a place for the first time alpine climber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 Post deleted by Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 Post deleted by Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 (edited) how about Black Peak NE ridge Shuksan Fisher Chimneys Johannesburg N face  I mean really though. If someone is asking the question then they probably dont even have the selected guide but they won't understand any of our answers so they will have to buy the guidebook anyways.  With that in mind I would say to hell with the Cascades, come to Vancouver, fly in to Red Tit Hut and spend all 5 days bagging peaks in the Tantalus Range. Edited July 9, 2004 by Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 With that in mind I would say to hell with the Cascades, come to Vancouver, fly in to Red Tit Hut and spend all 5 days bagging peaks in the Tantalus Range. Â THAT is an interesting idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 I mean really though. If someone is asking the question then they probably dont even have the selected guide but they won't understand any of our answers so they will have to buy the guidebook anyways. Â True, but still, it doesn't hurt to welcome new guests here, you never know...mybe they ARE just as cool as you... Â Likely someone from Philly visiting the Cascades for the first time has never heard of Jim Nelson, his guidebooks, or the KTK. Â Anyway, have fun...that's my moto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 (edited) Mount Challenger, Challenger Glacier Only Grade II, but the approach will make you think it's more. Snow/ice to 30deg, glacier travel and 5.7. It will take you up to 5 days. Â Remote alpine adventure. Â NE ridge of Triumph has about four moves of 5.6 on mediocre rock and doesn't really have any glacier travel. It looks aesthetic as hell from far away, but loses some of its appeal when you get on it. Really good views of the southern pickets though. Â Another option would be to go to Washington Pass and do one or two awesome multipitch rock climbs on beautiful granite each day. If I only had five days in WA and wanted to primarily ROCK CLIMB as opposed to walk on snow, that's what I'd do. It's sort of "alpine". Â edit: What the hell is the KTK? Edited July 9, 2004 by Alpinfox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 Likely someone from Philly visiting the Cascades for the first time has never heard of Jim Nelson, his guidebooks, or the KTK. Â dude if i go to a new area i research it first... then i ask questions after i have some clue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wass Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 Listen...Let me put to rest those suspicious of my intent or critical of my approach. Â I'm new to this site and thought I'd reach out for the opinions of other area climbers. I have extensive climbing expereince here and abroad and numerous trips to the Cascades. I consulted guidebooks but nothing replaces the first hand expereince of local climbers. Climbers that I view as some the friendliest. I hope this helps... And for those that provided their choices...Thanks! Â But Dru, what is really going on with you? I'm sorry if I bothered you. I don't have 20000+ posts and play pac-man video games. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 your loss  now i'm wondering why you need to register a new user name for every post? you'll never hit 20,000 that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chosskid2004 Posted July 9, 2004 Author Share Posted July 9, 2004 What are the odds of you being at the computer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 it depends if its raining or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 granite splitter in alpine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 KTK = Kaskade Trad Klan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 ok, chosskid/wass, here's my rec for the perfect north cascades sampler. everything on this list is pretty popular already, so i'm not worried about whether or not you're a troll or a magazine writer in disguise: day 1: hike up to boston basin & establish camp day 2: climb w. ridge of torment and start torment-forbidden traverse. bivy halfway along. day 3: complete traverse by climbing w. ridge of forbidden. descend to camp in boston basin. day 4: cross over sharkfin col, cross boston glacier and climb n. face of buckner. cross upper horseshoe basin, hike up sahale arm and summit sahale peak. descent quien sabe glacier to camp in boston basin day 5: back up to sharkfin col and climb sharkfin tower, descend to camp and hike out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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